Азбука кожи для косметолога (Часть 2): строение дермы

The human skin consists of three main layers: epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. In a previous article, estet-portal.com spoke in detail about the structure of the epidermis – the outermost layer of the skin that we can see with the naked eye. In today's material we will talk about the dermis – the most important layer of the skin, the condition of which directly affects its appearance. It is important for beauticians to have a good knowledge of the structure of the dermis in order to understand the work of moisturizers, anti-age and many other skin products and procedures. Only with this knowledge can a specialist effectively help each of his patients.

Features of the structure of the dermis – base layer of skin

Derma – it is the framework of the human skin. It is in it that there are such important structures that the whole world of aesthetic medicine is talking about, and which provide elasticity, hydration, smoothness, radiance, health and beauty of our skin as a whole – collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

The active ingredients of most cosmetics cannot penetrate the dermis when applied externally, and injection methods are an effective method of delivering them to the middle layer of the skin.

Aestheticians who want to master these techniques and use them correctly, safely and effectively for their patients must first understand the structure of the dermis.

Derm structure:

  • structural features of the dermis: papillary and reticular layer;
  • fibroblasts and products of their synthesis – basis of the structure of the dermis.

Particularities of the structure of the dermis: papillary and reticular layer

The structure of the dermis is somewhat different from the structure of the epidermis. The dermis also has a layered structure, but unlike the epidermis, it has only two layers:

  • papillary layer – it is a thin upper layer of the dermis, which got its name from the papillae that protrude into the epidermis. It is due to the papillae that the area of ​​interaction between the dermis and the epidermis increases and the latter is nourished. Useful substances from the blood vessels of the lower layer of the dermis pass through the papillary layer, then through the basement membrane – a layer of intercellular substance separating the epidermis and dermis, and only then enter the upper layer of the skin. In addition, papillae create a characteristic skin pattern, which is why each person has a unique fingerprint;
  • mesh layer – this is the thick lower layer of the dermis, which contains many important structures: blood and lymphatic vessels, nerve receptors, sebaceous and sweat glands, nail roots, bulb, canal and hair root, as well as muscles that raise hairs. In addition, it is in the mesh layer that there are fibroblast cells, which can be called the "heart"; our skin.

Fibroblasts and products of their synthesis – basis of the structure of the dermis

Fibroblasts – this is the basis of the structure of the dermis, namely its thick reticular layer. They are located in the intercellular substance of the dermis and their main function is the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, as well as their destruction with the help of certain enzymes.

Each of the products of fibroblast synthesis performs its important function for the skin:

  • collagen – it is a protein consisting of many amino acids connected in chains, which, in turn, form 3 strands twisted together like a spiral or spring. Collagen fibers do not stretch, but can bend, so collagen provides strength to the skin;

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  • between the collagen and elastin fibers is a gel-like substance consisting of glycosaminoglycans. The latter, in turn, consist of proteins and carbohydrates, and the main one is hyaluronic acid. Its molecules form a network with cells where hyaluronic acid attracts and retains a huge amount of moisture. This is how the gel is formed, which also provides firmness to the skin.

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In order to understand the processes of skin aging, estheticians need to know that with age, the activity of fibroblasts decreases, the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid slows down, but the rate of their utilization remains the same.

That is why with age the skin becomes drier, loses its firmness and elasticity, and wrinkles form on it. The structure of the dermis – this is the basis of dermatocosmetology, which every aesthetic medicine specialist should master. Most of the cosmetic anti-age procedures today  are aimed at restoring a sufficient amount of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the dermis. Thank you for choosing estet-portal.com, we also invite you to read other materials in the "Cosmetology" section.

See also: 

The ABC of the skin for a cosmetologist (Part 1): the structure of the epidermis

The ABC of the skin for a beautician (Part 3): the structure of the hypodermis

 

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