Modern techniques used by cosmetologists for facial skin rejuvenation are becoming more and more complex, as they correct not only skin aging, but also deeper involutional changes that occur with the face.
Read an exclusive interview for estet-portal readers about the features of a step-by-step approach to facial correction, the role of peptides in skin rejuvenation and other important principles of working with a patient. com from Magdalina Al-Nagash, maxillofacial surgeon, specialist in aesthetic medicine, chief physician of the NUCUCosmetic Laser and Hardware Cosmetology Center, president of the All-Ukrainian Association of Applied Aesthetics Specialists (Kharkiv), member of ISD (USA), member of the DASIL Association (USA).
Why the role of peptides in skin rejuvenation should be covered as widely as possible
The fact is that often patients perceive all involutionary processes, that is, aging processes, as occurring only with the skin. This is quite understandable, because the skin – this is what catches our eye first of all when communicating with a person. And what methods of skin rejuvenation can we offer today? Of course, without the base material to create young skin – that is, without healthy cells – rejuvenation is out of the question. And peptides as regulators, as signaling molecules, contribute precisely to the optimization of their own resources, that is, the skin's own stem cells.
People are often afraid of the words "stem cells", "peptides". But we are talking about strictly differentiated tissue-specific peptides and cells of the dermis and epidermis, which are affected by Meso-Wharton P199™ as an optimizer, activator division of these stem cells. Also, the P199 peptide, which is contained in the Meso-Wharton P199® preparation, helps to improve the environment of, say, this cell, the so-called niche. Often it is necessary not only to remove an outdated cage, but to improve, figuratively speaking, its habitat. And this is precisely where its key role lies.
Read also: 10 facts about Meso-Wharton P199
Why facial rejuvenation should be carried out following certain steps
Skin aging – this is one of the first stages of age-related changes in the face. Further, ligaments sag and age, muscles, bones are subject to atrophy, subcutaneous fat packages – they are either subject to resorption or move down.
The etiology of aging is not limited to skin aging. The underlying bone tissues are subject to atrophy, they decrease in volume. Subcutaneous fat packs move, deforming the oval of the face and forming cheeks. The ligaments are stretched, the skin is stretched and increased in volume. It is very important to correctly and competently build an algorithm for correcting all stages of involutional changes, to create an individual correction plan, not only by morphotypes, but, of course, taking into account age groups and individual characteristics.
I would like to remind you about the rejuvenation procedure, perfect in my understanding, in which we use the so-called negative stimulation in cosmetology – when, under medical supervision, we can ablate old cells or with lasers, or peels, or some other methods. After that, we need to turn on the regeneration mechanism, because reparation – this is the healing of damaged tissue, but in order for the skin to be truly younger, we also need physiological regeneration processes.
And here is the combination of, let's say, the negative method of the ablation procedure with the positive method of regeneration - minus and plus – gives us a perfect result in the complex.
How should a cosmetologist correctly explain that rejuvenation – not a one-time procedure, but a step-by-step process
In order to explain correctly, the beautician must first correctly understand what type of patient is in front of him, what category does it belong to. Although the World Health Organization defines youth as 44 years of age, we traditionally call 30-year-old patients young because they are the ones who most often come to us with the first signs of aging, with the first wrinkles.
For such patients sometimes monotherapy of the same drug Meso-Wharton P199™in a certain course is enough - and all will be well. But only if it concerns wrinkles, not creases, because there is a big difference between a crease and a wrinkle. Hall – this, for example, is a deep nasolabial fold – most often created by ptosis of soft tissues, and here you can’t help by correcting the quality of the skin alone.
It happens that patients are dissatisfied with the result, because sometimes cosmetologists enthusiastically, falling in love with the drug, offer it as a panacea. I have been practicing for over 23 years and I want to be honest: not a single procedure – not a panacea for facial rejuvenation. That is why my approach is fairly honest – to patients, to drugs, to yourself. I always tell the truth – for example, mesotherapy alone will not help you, even with the most excellent preparation. The same goes for creams.
I take a photo and show some features of the face, then the patient is more understandable. Sometimes people don't even notice the asymmetry in their face. Plus, I show certain age-related changes, & nbsp; further I tell – here you need a filler, because the subcutaneous fat packs are gone and large depressions under the eyes have formed. And here, on the contrary, an oval swam and fleas appeared.
This needs to be corrected with other drugs that can competently and carefully work with adipose tissue, & nbsp; leading to a decrease in its volume. I love MesoSculpt C71 . You can suggest thread methods, hardware procedures will help somewhere.
Further, an individual program is drawn up – beauty plan. Despite the fact that I have been working for many years, I can say that the specificity of human tissues, its features are important.
And, of course, the experience of a beautician is very important. You need to develop, learn to correctly determine the patient's type, his degree of involutional changes.
How to arrange a patient for the procedure if he is afraid of injections, especially with active elements such as peptide preparations
- The most correct – is to explain that, say, Meso-Wharton P199™ These are not living stem cells. The composition of the drug includes a synthetic analogue of the peptide present in the umbilical cord. As you know, this cord contains the maximum amount of the substance from which stem cells are released, and people are afraid of this.
First, you need to ask the patient how he feels about stem cells. A cosmetologist always needs to educate the patient, show, for example, pictures of the skin – we stimulate the epidermis and the dermis itself. Of course, the patient needs to be examined, to clarify the possibility of the presence of any neoplasms. If he has any skin diseases – he'd be better off refusing altogether.
Facial rejuvenation should only be performed when the patient's health status is normal. Be sure to collect a detailed history, examine the skin in order not to harm the patient, his safety – this is the main thing.
Despite the fact that we work in aesthetic medicine, we must be doctors first and foremost. I often refuse patients because my task – do no harm, and then – make beautiful. If the cosmetologist doubts something, let him send him for a consultation with a dermatologist.
Synergism, interdisciplinary collaboration is very important in order to achieve a safe and beautiful rejuvenating result for the patient.
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