Мелазма на коже европейского типа: протокол лечения на всех этапах меланогенеза

The topic of hyperpigmentation is always relevant for a cosmetologist. Violations of this kind are difficult to treat, and it is even more difficult to consolidate and prolong the result without relapses. The most common type of hyperpigmentation in the face is melasma, which appears as brown, grayish, blue spots that cluster into large, irregularly shaped lesions. For effective treatment of melasma , the well-known Spanish brand INNOAESHETICS includes an innovative line of products for professional and home use ME LINE > CAUCASIAN SKIN. In the article estet-portal.com we will tell you why ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN from official distributor of TOTISPHARMA GROUP – drugs of choice for the treatment of melasma in European-type skin (Fitzpatrick phototypes I–IV).

Pigmentation features of European skin type 

Pigmentation – the most pronounced difference in the skin of different racial groups. Its severity depends on:

  • genetics;
  • amount of melanin;
  • melanosome content;
  • type of pigment in the skin;
  • UV activity.

Features of the European skin type:

  • hemoglobin and oxyhemoglobin give the skin a pink tint;
  • melanosomes are grouped into complexes of two or more units;
  • melanosomes are small;
  • melanosomes are mainly located at the level of the basement membrane to protect the nascent nuclei of epidermal cells from UV damage;
  • skin contains less PAR-2 ​​– protease-activated receptors that are involved in the process of transporting melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes – PAR-2 ​​enhance phagocytosis.

Classification of melasma depending on the depth and localization of the lesion

By location, melasma is classified into:

  • central facial (affects the forehead, nose, upper lip, chin);
  • painting (only affects the nose and cheeks);
  • mandibular (affects the arch of the mandible).

Depending on the melanin depth there are:  

  1. Superficial (epidermal) melasma:
  • pigmentation is localized mainly in the basal and suprabasal layer;
  • under the Wood's lamp the spots are visualized brighter (wavelength 340–400nm).
  1. Deep (dermal) melasma:
  • pigment detected in macrophages in the superficial dermis;
  • under the Wood's lamp there is no significant contrast between pigmented and non-pigmented areas.
  1. Mixed melasma:
  • elements of epidermal and dermal pigmentation are present;
  • only areas of epidermal pigmentation are contrasted under Wood's lamp.

Read also: An indispensable assistant to a cosmetologist: a unique peeling for the periorbital zone

Melasma triggers can include:

  • exposure to estrogen, progesterone;
  • pregnancy;
  • use of oral contraceptives;

What is important to tell a patient with melasma at the consultation stage

At the consultation stage, it is important:

  1. Find out if there have been previous attempts to treat melasma.
  2. Determine how long ago the problem occurred.
  3. Explain to the patient that the therapy will be long enough (from six months to several years, depending on the severity of hyperpigmentation and other factors).
  4. To emphasize that home care accounts for 80% of melasma treatment, while professional treatments provide only 20% of the result. Without home care, melasma therapy will unfortunately be effective.
  5. What is the uniqueness of the ME LINE brand from INNOAESTHETICS

  ME LINE (Innoaesthetics) from the official distributor

TOTISPHARMA GROUP – an innovative and unique anti-hyperpigmentation system that affects all stages of melanogenesis. This is the first and main advantage of the line.  

My default image

 

Benefits

ME LINE – this is:

a clear differentiated approach to different types of hyperpigmentation;
  • targeted work with different zones (face, local hyperpigmentation, periorbital zone, intimate zone, body) taking into account the peculiarities of the skin of each of them;
  • products specially designed for different skin phototypes;
  • stable formula of the most powerful active ingredients combined in one vial;
  • clear distribution of professional and home care products.
  • Medications of the ME LINE line are
numerically labeled, depending on the intended use

:

00 – preparatory agent, pre-peeling solution;
  • 01 – peeling or mesopreparation for professional use;
  • 02 – products for home use with acids (creams, serums);
  • 03 – means for restoring and moisturizing;
  • 04 – BB Creams
  • 05 – a mask that enhances the effect of professional therapy.
Mechanism of action of melasma drugs

ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN (H2) The active ingredients of

products affect all stages of melanogenesis

:

    Melanin Synthesis Prevention:
neutralization of free radicals (ferulic acid, lactobionic acid, copper tripeptide, tocopherol acetate);
  • suppression of melanotropin activity (melanostatin-5, Mg sulfate, undecillinoyl phenylalanine);
  • Suppression of plasminogen (tranexamic acid);
  • RNAm suppression (phenylethyl resorcinol, glutathione, retinal);
  • Copper chelation in tyrosinase (phytic acid).
  • ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN preparations are designed for professional treatment of melasma and home care for European skin type.
    Action during melanin synthesis:
suppression of T1 tyrosine transport to premelanosome (glutathione);
  • tyrosinase inhibition (azelaic acid);
  • suppression of dopaquinone metabolite – indole (thioctic acid);
  • suppression of melanosome maturation (arbutin, retinal);
  • inhibition of the conversion of DOPA to DOPAquinone (kojic acid).
    Influence on synthesized melanin:
suppression of melanosome migration (niacinamide, retinal);Melasma treatment protocol

ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN for European skin type (I–IV phototypes):

Skin preparation:

  1. cleanse and degrease the skin, removing traces of cosmetics and sebum;
apply 1 coat 
    of 
  • pre-peel solution
  •  ME LINE 00 PREP on the face with a cotton swab. Leave for 3 minutes.
Using 
    professional peeling mask for melasma/chloasma therapy
  1.  01 ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN MASK:
  2. Apply ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN peeling evenly all over the face;
    After a 15-minute exposure, apply a second coat exclusively on areas of hyperpigmentation;
  • exposure time: 1st session – 30–45 minutes, 2nd session – 45–60 minutes (after 30 days), 3rd session – 30 minutes (after 6 months);
  • remove peeling with Gentle Foam Cleanser and a cotton swab;
  • complete with ME LINE 01 MOIST serum and ME LINE 01 RESTORE cream.
Post-peel care:
  1. For the first 3–7 days, use only 03 ME LINE 03 RESTORE emollient cream,
03 ME LINE MOIST
    intensive moisturizing serum and 04 ME LINE professional protective cream (SPF 30) with tinted effect BB;
  • from day 4–8 start applying  02 ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN DAY
  • 03 ME LINE MOIST, 04 ME LINE BB CREAM, 02 ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN NIGHT all over the face; use home care for
  • 1–2 months.
  • Active ingredients and action of ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN melasma preparations

Cleanser 

ME LINE Gentle Foam to improve and optimize treatment results ME LINE. Composition:

dexpanthenol;

    bisabolol;
  • L-aspartate;
  • magnesium;
  • copper;
  • gluconic acid;
  • zinc.
  • Action:

regulates the function of the epidermal barrier;

    prevent inflammation;
  • contributes to the production of energy;
  • increases cell turnover and helps inhibit melanogenesis;
  • maintains skin integrity and removes toxins;
  • increases cellular respiration;
  • repairs cellular DNA.
  • The foam can be used in the beautician's office and at home.
You may also be interested in:

Almond peeling with DMAE – all-season instant beauty treatment

Pre-Peel 00

ME LINE PREP – preparatory solution for peeling 01 MELINE Caucasian Skin.  Composition

:

lactobionic acid;

lactic acid;
  • ferulic acid;
  • thioctic acid;
  • nonapeptide-1.
  • Action:

prevents the formation of free radicals and inhibits the activity of metalloproteinases, increases the barrier function of the skin;

intensively moisturizes the skin;
  • neutralizes free radicals;
  • suppresses metabolites on the way of conversion of DOPAquinone to indole;
  • Suppresses the activity of melanocytes.
  • Peeling
 01 ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN

Composition

:

azelaic acid;

tranexamic acid;
  • arbutin;
  • kojic acid;
  • lactobionic acid;
  • retinal;
  • phenylethyl resorcinol.
  •  

My default image 

Action:

suppresses tyrosinase, blocks mitochondrial redox systems;

suppresses plasminogen and inactivates tyrosinase;
  • suppresses polymerase activity and maturation of melanosomes;
  • blocks the conversion of DOPA to DOPAquinone, prevents the transformation of DOPAquinone to eumelanin;
  • prevents the formation of free radicals and inhibits the activity of metalloproteinases, enhances the barrier function;
  • increases epidermal desquamation, stimulates cell renewal, suppresses the transcription factor, preventing melanosome transport;
  • depigmenting action by blocking tyrosinase oxidation, suppresses the expression of PPARs-receptors.
  • Follow us on
  • Instagram

! 02

ME

LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN DAY –  Day Serum for Home Post-Peel Treatment of Melasma/Chloasma Composition:

mandelic acid;

lactobionic acid;
  • phytic acid;
  • kojic acid;
  • glutathione;
  • tranexamic acid;
  • copper tripeptide.
  • Action:

stimulates the exfoliation of the stratum corneum, disperses melanin in the basal layer of the epidermis;

prevents the formation of free radicals and inhibits the activity of metalloproteinases, enhances the barrier function;
  • works at the stage of melanin presynthesis, carries out chelation of copper and iron in the active part of the enzyme;
  • blocks the conversion of DOPA to DOPAquinone, prevents the transformation of DOPAquinone to eumelanin;
  • suppresses tyrosine transport to premelanosomes;
  • neutralizes free radicals.
  • The active ingredients of ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN preparations have a complex effect on the mechanisms of melasma, inhibiting them at all stages of melanogenesis.
02
ME

LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN NIGHT – night cream for melasma/chloasma post-peel treatment at home Composition:

azelaic acid;

melanostatin-5;
  • arbutin;
  • magnesium sulfate;
  • thioctic acid;
  • phenylethyl resorcinol;
  • retinal.
  • Action:

suppresses tyrosinase, blocks mitochondrial redox systems;

prevents interaction with melanotropin receptors;
  • suppresses the activity of melanotropy
  • o
  • on;
  • suppresses metabolites on the way of conversion of DOPAquinone to indole; depigmenting action by blocking tyrosinase oxidation, suppresses the expression of PPARs-receptors;
  • increases desquamation of
  • cells
  • of the epidermis, stimulating cell renewal, inhibits the transcription factor, preventing melanosome transport.
  • 01/03
ME

LINE RESTOREemollient cream emollient cream designed to restore the skin after a professional procedure. Used for professional and home care Composition:

panthenol;

red-brown wild rose;
  • aloe vera;
  • Centella Asiatica;
  • tocopheryl acetate;
  • arnica;
  • glycyrrhetinic acid.
  • Action:

prevents the recurrence of hyperpigmentation;

reduces inflammation;
  • prevents any changes in the melanocyte caused by oxidation processes.
  •  

 My default image

01/03

ME

LINE MOIST – serum for intense skin hydration after professional and home depigmentation therapy Composition:

panthenol.

proteoglycans;
  • hyaluronic acid;
  • allantoin;
  • tocopherol.
  • Action:

prevents skin moisture loss;

intensifies the depigmenting action of ME LINE;
  • promotes cell regeneration.
  • New generation biological peeling: cell stimulation without negative effects on the skin

04 ME

LINE

 BB CREAM LIGHT , MEDIUM with SPF 30 for solar protection Action:

gives skin freshness;

visibly tightens pores;
  • reduces redness;
  • relieves irritation;
  • moisturizes the skin;
  • UV protection;
  • can be used as a make-up base.
  • 05

ME LINE PIGMENT HOME MASK – homemade post-peel mask for skin prone to hyperpigmentation Composition:

mandelic acid;

azelaic acid;
  • phytic acid;
  • lactobionic acid;
  • lactic acid;
  • tranexamic acid;
  • tocopheryl acetate;
  • salicylic acid;
  • Na hyaluronate;
  • retinal;
  • The mask has a brightening effect, it can also be used in preparation for peeling.
  • ME LINE CAUCASIAN SKIN from
official

distributor

TOTISPHARMA GROUP – a reliable, unparalleled assistant to a modern cosmetologist in the treatment of melasma in owners of European skin type (I– IV according to Fitzpatrick). The line combines unique products based on powerful depigmenting and protective ingredients that allow you to get a pronounced and long-term result. More interesting videos on our YouTube

-channel!