At the heart of the anti-aging procedures performed by a cosmetologist to improve the appearance of the face and eliminate wrinkles is the regeneration of skin cells, which must be stimulated. To do this, there are many cosmetic products and procedures, the action of which is aimed at activating cellular processes in such layers of the skin as the epidermis and dermis, as well as accelerating the production of collagen and elastin. Rejuvenation methods and means are selected taking into account the ability of the skin to respond to stimulating effects.
Some causes of delayed skin cell regeneration
Slow cell renewal in aging skin occurs due to a decrease in the rate of their division in the basal layer, as well as due to a violation of the process of desquamation of the stratum corneum scales. As a result, the barrier function of the skin is disrupted, the number of defective cells in the epidermis increases, and the overall appearance of the skin worsens.
The dermis suffers from external damaging environmental factors not much less than the epidermis, and therefore also needs to be updated. Fibroblasts of this skin layer constantly synthesize elastin and collagen fibers, hyaluronic acid, other glycosaminoglycans and also constantly destroy them, supporting skin regeneration processes. Over time, fibroblasts lose the ability to synthesize intercellular substance as quickly as before, and the rate of renewal of the dermis slows down.
Possible ways to stimulate skin cell regeneration
Today, research on the possibilities of stem cells, capable of almost endless division, has become promising. It is generally accepted that the stem cells of the epidermis are located in the bulge region of the hair follicle, which is confirmed by some experiments, during which scientists were able to grow a fragment of a full-fledged skin from the cells of the hair follicle.
In addition, the cells of the basal layer of the skin are capable of intensive division, and it is precisely those cells that are located in areas of the epidermis deep in the dermis. The rate of renewal of the epidermis depends on the rate of cell division of the basal layer, but not directly, since they divide much faster than necessary. This feature of the basal layer is explained by the need to create some reserves in case of skin damage and the need for immediate regeneration of skin cells. Under normal conditions, the epidermis inhibits this process by producing chalons that inhibit cell division and maintains the optimal thickness of the stratum corneum.
With any damaging effect on the skin, the rate of division of basal cells increases. If the damage occurs in a small area, thickening of the skin occurs locally (a vivid example of this is the formation of calluses on the worn area of the foot). Damage to the skin over a large area causes acanthosis – general thickening of the epidermis (for example, after excessive insolation, the skin on the body becomes rough and dense).
Methods and means of stimulating skin cell regeneration
In cosmetology, one of the ways to stimulate the skin to regenerate – peeling – is based precisely on this property of the skin to respond to its damage by active cell division of the basal layer. Another way to give them a signal for intensive reproduction – use cytokines and retinoids.
– these are mediators of a protein nature that are involved in intercellular signaling, regulate cell proliferation and differentiation. Retinoids can directly stimulate epidermal cells to divide and differentiate, as well as weaken the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum, which contributes to their exfoliation.
Phytoestrogens– another remedy that stimulates the regeneration of skin cells. Phytoestrogens can speed up cell renewal if cells have become slower to divide due to insufficient hormonal stimulation. Stimulation of epidermal cells to renew promotes the activation of dermal fibroblasts, which leads to an increase in the synthesis of collagen and elastin. The following substances can act as such stimulants in the composition of cosmetics, accelerating the regeneration of skin cells and helping to smooth out certain types of wrinkles:
N-acetyl-L-cysteine (sulfur-containing amino acid);
- gamma-aminobutyric acid;
- unsaponifiable fractions of avocado oil, soybean oil;
- yeast wall polysaccharides;
- purified aloe gel polysaccharides;
- L-ascorbic acid.
- The choice of agent and method for skin cell regeneration and overall rejuvenation, as well as for its treatment in case of damage or UV radiation, depends on the severity of the signs of aging or the nature of the damage, as well as the ability of the skin to respond to stimulating actions. If cell degradation due to age or the influence of external factors has gone too far and the skin does not respond to cosmetic treatments, more intensive anti-aging procedures or plastic surgery will be needed.
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