Косметология — это больше, чем «уколы красоты»

Fashion is cyclical, but grooming and beauty are something that is timeless.

Going to a beautician has long ceased to be the prerogative of rich people and has become no less a necessary ritual, like visiting a dentist.

Cosmetology is not only ‘Botox’ and lips. This is about personality psychology, about status, health, acceptance and self-love. Aesthetic doctors have long ceased to be just those who give beauty injections and have become those who replace a visit to a therapist and even gestalt therapy.

Endocrine system and hormonal background — Are there beauticians here? How cosmetology has changed and who was the ‘discoverer’ aesthetic medicine in Ukraine? 

Read on estet-portal.com exclusive  interview with the flagship of cosmetology Elena Stoyanova - PhD, dermatovenereologist, head physician of the niche clinic “St Esthetic”.

How did your journey into the world of cosmetology begin when no one knew anything about injections?

The desire to look young and beautiful has always and at all times been the key desire of successful people. Each generation of people contributed to the development of cosmetology all the best innovations of its time. Starting from Cleopatra and ending with modern politicians — everyone resorted to magical technologies.

 

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My cosmetology practice began as an "alternate airfield". I studied at a medical institute and at the same time, having completed courses in cosmetology, I started working. Masks, massages, facial cleansing: that's all that was in the arsenal at that time. 

The secrets of cosmetology were magical and carefully hidden.

The successful specialist was the one with magical hands. This means practicing massage and cleansing techniques on hundreds of patients. Medical cosmetics were ordered in pharmacies, while cosmetics were prepared by cosmetologists themselves.

It was important not just to have recipes for creams and masks, but to be able to get all the ingredients. Not an easy task… 

There was a lot of mysticism in all these moments, but in fact, the one who knew chemistry and dermatology well won, because beauty — it is, first of all, health.

You are a pioneer of cosmetology in Ukraine as a branch of medicine. How has she changed over this time?

The changes were huge. The perception of a beautician as part of a beauty salon, along with hairdressers, manicures and squealing, to the development of a separate and very large specialty in medicine.

The skin is the largest organ of the human body with a very complex structure and physiology. At the same time, the skin always reflects, like a mirror, the state of health of all organs and systems. By its condition, we can judge how the endocrine system works and what state the hormonal background is in, what happens to the gastrointestinal tract and the immune system, the nervous system, blood vessels and heart, kidneys & hellip; All this has a reflection on our skin and the beautician takes into account all these features in his work.

A cosmetologist, at the moment, monitors the state of the whole organism and is often the first to see the symptoms of diseases of other organs. 

 

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Cosmetology itself and all procedures are now moving into the category of evidence-based medicine. A large number of clinical studies make our work more effective and safer.

Is it difficult to be the first? What responsibility lies on the shoulders of a doctor who started cosmetology in Ukraine?

There is no single answer to this question. It is both difficult and easy at the same time. Comparing our work 20 years ago, when the first preparations Dysport and  Restylane  had just appeared and there was not a single protocol on how and what to do with them, we began to work under the guidance of an amazing and absolutely brilliant surgeon Alexander Vasilyevich Borodko. He is the first surgeon to start teaching injection techniques to dermatologists.

The knowledge gained from a surgeon who actually knew how the face is arranged under the skin, how the mimic muscles work and in which layers there is a lack of volume, was absolutely invaluable.

Once a month, we met with colleagues and shared the results achieved, wrote protocols for procedures and methods for treating complications.

In fact, it was a scientific and practical experimental work. It was important to be very attentive to each patient, take into account many factors and carefully monitor the procedure and the rehabilitation period. Big responsibility!

Now young doctors receive ready-made standardized protocols for conducting procedures. It's more secure, but less interesting.

Cosmetology today — is a broader and medical concept

"Decoration" or beautification — This is one of the areas of cosmetology. It includes all procedures that change or embellish the appearance. I mean, an increase in the volume and shape of the lips, the formation of the chin and the angle of the lower jaw, the formation of the volume of the cheekbones, the change in facial expressions with the help of botulinum toxin therapy.

The second and very important direction — it is revitalization or work on the quality of the skin.

You understand that even the most beautiful and neatly made lips will look terrible on the face of an acne patient. A smooth forehead will only focus on dark circles under the eyes.

This is why the health and beauty of the skin is so important.

 

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Third direction — it is anti-age, the fight against the signs of aging. The work of this direction cannot be limited only to the face, because the whole organism as a whole is aging. The goal will always be health and quality of life. For this, it is important to develop a care system that will lead to an ideal result.

It is this scientific systematic approach to appearance that distinguishes modern cosmetology.

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