Features of the use of drugs with peptides in cosmetology

Preparations with peptides are currently widely used in modern cosmetology. Aesthetic medicine specialists use products with peptides as anti-age therapy, for facial skin rejuvenation.

However, peptide preparations have some features, which, especially for the readers of estet-portal.com, were described by Elena Hernandez, Candidate of Biological Sciences, Member of the Expert Council of the Russian Society of Dermatovenereologists and Cosmetologists. Read an exclusive interview with an expert on the website right now.

What is the role of peptides in aesthetic medicine

First of all, proteins are the most important element of any living matter, so it is no coincidence that they are used in medicine, in particular in cosmetology and dermatology. The question is which proteins to use and for what purpose.

Today, cosmetology uses mainly proteins of a synthetic nature, and not even so much the proteins themselves, as such, but how many of their fragments.

The fragments that are synthesized artificially have a small sequence, but it very clearly repeats the most important fragment of the protein molecule, which is connected to the receptors if it is a signal protein.

Accordingly, these small fragments, which are called oligopeptides, mimic the action of a real signaling protein, and we can expect that their interaction with the cell through the cell receptor will trigger some kind of cellular response. To do this, of course, you need to understand very clearly what kind of fragment it is, on the one hand, and on the other hand – which cell will react to it and how.

How exactly proteins are used in cosmetology

In cosmetology, fragments of oligopeptide proteins are used, or larger recombinant fragments for mesopreparations. This is the spectrum that we have today. Separately, we can talk about natural protein cocktails. This is what we use in the form of platelet rich plasma.

There is already a truly natural cocktail, but these are the own proteins of a particular person. It is not always possible to use this, although, in fact, this is an ideal option. But today we have quite effective and, most importantly, safe analogues in the form of synthetic oligopeptides or recombinant cytokines.

How effective is the use of drugs with peptides

Here, a lot depends not only on the presence of such peptides in the formulation, but on those substances that are present in this formulation, affect the permeability of the skin and, in fact, prepare the ground for the oligopeptides to pass through the stratum corneum.

The very fact of the presence of oligopeptides in the formulation does not guarantee anything, it is very important to look at what else is included in the preparations with peptides.

It could be some kind of enhancers or special delivery systems. For the use of such drugs, the skin must be specially prepared, and, even better, then covered with a certain occlusive layer from above, which will facilitate the passage of peptides into the skin. These are issues of bioavailability, they are being studied, and each manufacturer of such drugs solves these issues in their own way. It's great when a manufacturer not only says that there are such peptides in his drug, but also gives some kind of evidence base that confirms that this particular drug has been studied and shown to be effective.

What are the features of the production of drugs with peptides

Peptides – they are water soluble substances. This is already some limitation that is imposed on the basis. Water-soluble substances do not pass well through the skin. Even if we are talking about very small peptides, which, in principle, can pass by their size, the second restriction – is their solubility. They are water soluble, and in terms of transmission and diffusion, this is bad.

Therefore, the basis for such drugs should have substances that will affect the lipid barrier and slightly change its structure and properties, so as not to disturb them, but slightly facilitate the passage of other substances through this barrier.

On the other hand, we need special transdermal carriers that will slightly reduce the hydrophilicity of these additives. This is not so much a vector that will drag something along with it, but slightly change the properties of the peptide itself, making it less water-soluble and more loyal to the lipid barrier.

The presence of preservatives is also required. I believe that they must be, because the peptide – it's organic.

If everything else is not organic, and bacteria are not so willing to populate such an inorganic environment, then peptides must be protected. Therefore, in such a preparation there must be preservatives that will prevent the growth of bacteria in it.

It is highly desirable to minimize contact with air. A good preparation with peptides should be in a container that will not come into contact with air. For example, with a dispenser or with a very narrow neck that, after squeezing out, will not suck in air again. This is also a very important technological moment.

Are synthetic peptides identical in their properties to natural ones

They cannot be absolutely identical, because they are only fragments of natural peptides. Yes, this is a fragment of the most important part, in terms of attaching this peptide to the receptor, and this is the part that a synthetic peptide usually repeats, but it is a fragment.

So, yes, it can attach to this receptor, but it's still not a complete peptide that we have in living tissue. Therefore, it will not be as active, and will not cause a cellular response with the same intensity as its normal protein. But this is also good, because, from a security point of view, this moment is very important, and it is better to play it safe here.