The Big Difference: The Use of Different Forms of Vitamin C in Cosmetics

Vitamin therapy is an indispensable component of almost every therapeutic regimen, regardless of what disease needs to be cured. The importance of consuming enough vitamins for human health is undeniable, and the health of the body – this is the key to good looks. One of the most important vitamins that affects the appearance of a person is vitamin C.

In today's article on estet-portal.com, read about what forms of vitamin C can be found in cosmetics, and what properties a specialist in the field of aesthetic medicine needs to know about.

Antioxidants in cosmetics: the main forms of vitamin C

Vitamin C is a very popular ingredient in cosmetics due to its anti-aging properties. As you know, the body's main assistants in the struggle for beauty and youth are antioxidants, which include various forms of vitamin C.

Ascorbic acid in skin care products prevents negative oxidation and effectively fights free radicals.

It is known that vitamin C is involved in all aspects of the functioning of the skin,  including, in the processes of its growth, protection, restoration, collagen and elastin synthesis, wound healing and prevention of premature aging.

The main properties of different forms of vitamin C

Vitamin C is not produced by the human body, so it must be supplied from the environment. Various forms of vitamin C can be found in cosmetics for skin care, each of which has its own properties and characteristics.

1. Ascorbic acid (AA, ascorbic acid)

This is the most abundant, active and well-researched form of vitamin C. In this form, vitamin C is water soluble and penetrates well into the skin as a solution and microparticles. Ascorbic acid – it is a very strong antioxidant that effectively protects the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation. Ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin in the skin, slows down the process of glycation, reduces post-acne and pigmentation, evens out skin tone and gives it radiance.

2. Ascorbyl palmitate (AA-PAL, ascorbyl palmitate)

This is ascorbic acid in combination with fatty palmitic acid. Ascorbyl palmitate – it is a non-acidic form of vitamin C, making it gentler on the skin. In this form, vitamin C is both water- and fat-soluble, penetrates well into the skin, moisturizing it. In addition, ascorbyl palmitate also protects the skin from sun damage and stimulates collagen production.

3. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate)

A form of vitamin C in combination with fatty isopalmitic acid.  When applied to the skin, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is converted to ascorbic acid. In this form, vitamin C is very stable, penetrates well into the skin due to its not only water but also fat solubility, and does not irritate it. Main properties: skin hydration, pigmentation lightening, stimulation of collagen synthesis, antioxidant effect.

4. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP)

A water-soluble form of vitamin C, a stabilized magnesium salt of ascorbic acid. When applied to the skin, it is converted into ascorbic acid and, with a competent formula of the product, which includes liposomes, penetrates well into the skin. In the composition of cosmetics, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is very effective even in low concentrations, and is suitable for sensitive skin. Its main effects – hydration and reduction of transepidermal water loss, stimulation of collagen synthesis, reduction of pigmentation.

5. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP)

Another water-soluble form that is characterized by its high stability. Just like other forms of vitamin C, sodium ascorbyl phosphate protects the skin from the sun, reduces pigmentation, and stimulates collagen production. Another important property of sodium ascorbyl phosphate is its anti-inflammatory effect, which helps in the fight against bacteria that provoke the development of acne.

Each of the forms of vitamin C has its pros and cons, but magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are the most stable and effective in cosmetics.

As one of the most powerful antioxidants, vitamin C in its various forms effectively fights the signs of aging, helping skin look young, healthy and radiant.