Isabelle Benoit about the innovative developments of the Institut Esthederm Paris laboratory

Isabelle Benoist – world-class expert, director of scientific innovation at the Institut Esthederm Paris laboratory with more than 20 years of experience in the cosmetics industry, author of scientific articles and research. Her own developments of active substances have been incorporated into the products of many cosmetic companies. In an exclusive interview for estet-portal.com, Isabelle Benois spoke about the latest trends in the field of cosmetic products, the features of protecting the skin from the negative effects of the environment, and also shared valuable information about cell water – a component that has no analogues in the world of cosmetology, which underlies all Institut Esthederm products.

Isabelle, you – a successful person, a charming woman, a strong academic advisor and an amazing speaker. Who is the leader for you? What inspires you? What did you want to be as a child?

As a child, my role model was Marie Curie – great scientist, strong woman. It fascinates me that all the scientific discoveries made by her actually changed the life of mankind. I have always been inspired by science that benefits women in everyday life. It is very difficult for a modern woman to maintain a balance between work and personal life, so I really admire ordinary women like you and me who manage to fulfill themselves in life.

You – director of scientific innovations of the largest laboratory Institut Esthederm. Tell us about the latest trends in functional diagnostics of the skin condition. What should I pay attention to?

Perhaps the latest discovery in this area is predictive diagnostics, the purpose of which – not an assessment of the current state, but a prediction of future changes that will happen to the skin without proper care, for example, in 20 years. To do this, it is necessary to analyze the patient's DNA, identify the specific parameters of aging to which the patient is most prone, and select the appropriate means to neutralize them. This approach is very effective, because it allows you to create an optimal plan for the prevention of aging, and prevention, as you know, – the best way to fight age-related skin changes.

One of the latest trends is the introduction of anti-age components into each line of cosmetic preparations. Why is this so relevant?

It's very simple: the skin is daily exposed to negative factors – oxidative stress, loss of energy, etc. Accordingly, if you want to keep your skin young for a long time, you must constantly neutralize such an effect. Therefore, components that, for example, allow you to fill the lack of energy and neutralize oxidative stress, should be included in all products for daily skin care. And only constant protection against the main factors of aging provides long-term results in terms of maintaining youthful skin.

Aggressive exposure to the sun – one of the most critical factors that cause not only cosmetic but also dermatological problems that can cause an exacerbation or manifestation of diseases such as rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis, chloasma, etc. What's new in the development of sunscreens aimed at combating skin photoaging?

One of the latest discoveries is to determine the role of various types of radiation in skin aging. Until now, the fight against the negative effects of light has been directed mainly at ultraviolet radiation UVA and UVB. It has recently been found that infrared radiation and visible light also negatively affect the skin, contributing to oxidative stress, skin inflammation, as well as the synthesis of MMP-1 (matrix metalloproteinase-1), which destroys collagen and leads to wrinkles. Therefore, one of the most important recent developments is the neutralization of the negative side effects of not only ultraviolet rays, but also infrared and visible radiation. Institut Esthederm has patented Global Cellular Protection technology, which does not contain SPF, i.е.

The patented Global Cellular Protection technology helps to neutralize the side effects of infrared exposure that accelerate skin aging.

"Urban cosmetics", which protects the skin from the harmful effects of the environment, – This is a relatively new direction in cosmetology. Why is it so important to take into account the impact of the environment, what consequences can it lead to?

The effects of pollution on the skin are quite varied, including, of course, premature aging. Also, environmental factors lead to the deterioration of oily skin, since, for example, ozone can oxidize epidermal lipids, contributing to the development of acne. Hypersensitivity is also observed when skin is exposed to pollution. Therefore, the Institut Esthederm created a product line – City Protect, which protects the skin from pollution and optical waves – ultraviolet, visible and infrared radiation.

What prompted you to create a unique product – cell water?

One simple observation prompted us to create cellular water. As you know, cosmetic products consist mainly of water, its content in a traditional emulsion of any product is at least 70%. Institut Esthederm experts, taking into account the importance of the amount of water in cosmetics, analyzed the effect of its various types on the skin. We have demonstrated that demineralized water is not able to support the vital activity of cells, and hypermineralized thermal water contains too many trace elements, which creates a shock for the cell, under which they cannot survive. Therefore, we have created cellular water, which is able to support the vital activity of skin cells due to the optimal content of trace elements and mineral salts. In cellular water, skin cells live better and longer. It is cellular water that is included in all Institut Esthederm products and is the main difference between Institut Esthederm and other brands. Cellular Water is also available as a spray that allows you to nourish skin cells with vitality throughout the day.

Cellular water is included in all Institut Esthederm products and is the main difference between Institut Esthederm and other brands.

What would you recommend to women who want to keep their skin youthful?

First, you need to choose a good brand of skin care products. Secondly, you need to regularly visit a specialist – cosmetologist, dermatologist – and combine home skin care products selected by a specialist with professional care, for example, in beauty salons. Of course, nutrition is just as important for skin health, as bad eating habits take a toll on skin. Therefore, I recommend eating a lot of greens, vegetables, natural products. And don't forget about quality sleep – after all, it is during sleep that the skin is renewed.