The use of collagen in cosmetics: does it really work?

Collagen is currently one of the most popular ingredients found in many beauty products. Everyone knows that this protein of the skin is directly responsible for its elasticity, smoothness and a young, toned appearance. Patients are convinced that the use of a miracle cream with collagen will help smooth out wrinkles, tighten the skin and produce a pronounced anti-age effect after just a few applications, but is it really so?

The answer to this question must be known to specialists, and therefore estet-portal.com has prepared reliable information about the functions of collagen in cosmetics.

How does collagen work in cosmetics

In human skin, collagen is continuously synthesized by fibroblasts, whose activity decreases significantly with age. This is due to the hormonal background of the body, because fibroblasts are estrogen-dependent cells, and a decrease in estrogen in the body leads to a corresponding decrease in collagen production.

The less collagen fibers in the skin – the more its correct structure is violated, its layers are lowered, mimic wrinkles appear.

For patients who have this information, collagen products seem like a magic potion that will correct all skin imperfections in an instant. But collagen in cosmetics does not work exactly the same way.

Collagen in cosmetics:

• is the collagen in cosmetics able to penetrate the layers of the skin;
• what forms of collagen can be used in cosmetics;
• why is collagen added to cosmetics.

Can collagen in cosmetics penetrate the layers of the skin

The most important question on which the effectiveness of cosmetics with collagen depends – can it penetrate the skin? In order for collagen molecules to penetrate into the dermis when applied externally, they need to overcome the epidermal barrier, which consists of insoluble keratin scales glued together by a fatty layer. Only a fat-soluble substance with a small molecule can pass through the barrier.

Water-soluble substances can penetrate the epidermal barrier in small amounts and under certain conditions. Collagen, on the other hand, does not dissolve in either fats or water, and has a large molecule, so collagen in cosmetics lies like a film on the surface of the skin and cannot penetrate into it.

What forms of collagen can be used in cosmetics

Since the collagen molecule cannot penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin on its own, it is necessary to ensure its effective transportation. There are two ways to do this: change the collagen or the delivery method of the molecule. Two other forms of collagen in cosmetics can penetrate the skin:

• soluble collagen – it is collagen, the process of fiber formation of which was interrupted before, & nbsp; how it is completely over. Such collagen can penetrate the skin, and is able to retain moisture very well, however, it is not a complete collagen, and does not perform all its functions;
• hydrolyzed collagen – it is collagen disassembled into individual amino acids and peptides, which penetrates well into the skin, but also does not have the properties of native (adult) collagen, and does not stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize natural collagen fibers.

The most effective use of collagen in cosmetics – this is the introduction of it into the dermis by injection in fillers, due to which wrinkles are, as it were, filled with collagen from the inside.

The use of collagen in the form of fillers can really have a good anti-age effect.

Why is collagen added to cosmetics

But despite the fact that, in most cases, collagen in cosmetics is not able to penetrate into the dermis, its use in cosmetics is absolutely justified, since collagen has many beneficial effects:

• moisturizing – collagen is able to attract a large amount of water, and due to the film that it forms on the surface of the skin, moisture is retained in its layers;
• lifting – when dried, the collagen film on the surface of the skin shrinks, providing a skin tightening effect;
• regeneration – collagen promotes effective and rapid wound healing;
• prolongation of the effect of other substances – collagen prolongs the action of oils and extracts, allows you to use less of them;
• hair care – collagen is able to glue hair scales, create an airtight film on its surface and give hair shine.

Thus, the use of collagen in cosmetics is an effective method of skin care, despite the fact that the collagen molecule itself is not able to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin.