Активные элементы осветляющего крема и их эффективность против пигментации

In order for a whitening or brightening cream to effectively fight hyperpigmentation, it must contain bioactive ingredients that inhibit tyrosinase. To prevent this enzyme from increasing the production of melanin pigment, manufacturers of brightening cosmetics use a variety of hypopigmenting agents. estet-portal.com offers readers the results of studies on the anti-tyrosine effect of some lightening creams containing active tyrosinase inhibitors.

Which components of the brightening cream are effective against tyrosinase

Tyrosinase is a well-known key enzyme involved in biosynthesis. Indeed, it catalyzes two distinct sequential reactions in melanin biosynthesis: the hydroxylation of tyrosine to dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) followed by the oxidation of DOPA to dopaquinone.

For many years, scientists have been looking for new tyrosinase inhibitors to use as hypopigmenting agents. There are many creams on the market today, the active ingredients of which are positioned as hypopigmenting agents. The most common hypopigmenting agent is hydroquinone, which has been shown to be both cytotoxic and genotoxic when used long term. Therefore, the market is waiting for new safe cosmetic creams that will effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity. A common alternative to hydroquinone is the well-known kojic acid.

Research results on the effectiveness of brightening creams

Modern studies have made it possible to evaluate the inhibitory effect of Aclaranse and Blending Bleaching creams presented by ANK Ukraine in relation to tyrosinase activity. Both creams showed tyrosinase inhibitory activity where Aclaranse and Blending Bleaching creams showed IC50 values ​​of 3.36µg/mL and 5.68µg/mL, respectively.

Compared to kojic acid (IC50 value of 12.04µg/mL), Aclaranse was 3.5 times more effective than kojic acid, while Blending Bleaching cream was 2 times more effective in inhibition of tyrosinase activity.

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These results demonstrate that Aclaranse and the Blending Bleaching cream effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase enzymes in vitro. This is confirmed by the skin whitening effect already observed in patients.

The results of the practical application of whitening / brightening creams

Age/sex: 41/female.
Main indications: early facial aging, melasma.
Preparations used for correction:
RRS Whitening, Blendig Bleaching cream, Melablock HSP, SPF 30+
Type of therapy: RRS Whitening nappage injections.
Number/frequency of treatments: 5 ml/ 1 treatment per week, total of 5 treatments.
Home care: Aesthetic Dermal Aclaranse 2 times a day, Melablock HSP SPF 30 ( 9:00 - 12:00 - 15:00)  

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Results before and after complex correction as a result of the application of RRS Whitening – 1 time per month and topical regular use of Acklaranse – 2 times a day for 2 months. Photos courtesy of Dr. Olga Antonyuk.

At the end of the course of procedures with the use of brightening / whitening creams from

ANK Ukraine company, a pronounced improvement in skin characteristics, a decrease in the severity of melasma was noted.

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