Драгоценный компонент в составе косметики: зачем коже нужна медь

When gold or silver is declared in the composition of cosmetics, such products are of constant interest and high demand. This is not surprising, because precious metals have always attracted people. But researchers of the effect of microelements on the skin put copper on a par with gold and even suggest that gold particles are able to show their activity only due to the content of copper in skin cells. Estet-portal.com reminds that cosmetics containing copper, if used correctly, can significantly improve skin condition.

Why copper in cosmetics is valuable for our skin

The value of copper in our life is evidenced by the fact that without this substance, the flow of metabolic processes in the human body is impossible, and therefore, in principle, human existence. For the skin, the first and most valuable property of copper is that it is part of the most important enzymes:
•    superoxide dismutase – is responsible for protecting the skin from free radicals;
•    lysyl oxidase – necessary for the production of collagen and elastin;
•    cytochrome oxidase – important for cell respiration and energy production;
•    tyrosinase – needed for melanin synthesis.
Impaired collagen synthesis – a clear sign that there is not enough copper in the skin. The deficiency of this trace element is manifested by accelerated skin aging, a decrease in its firmness and elasticity.

Copper enters our body with water and food, instantly being distributed among various enzymes. And if there is not enough of it, or for some reason it is poorly absorbed, then the activity of the superoxide dismutase enzyme first of all decreases. The main function of this enzyme is to neutralize especially active and therefore dangerous free radicals that are formed in the skin under the action of solar UV radiation. Therefore, maintaining the proper level of copper in the skin prevents the damaging effects of solar radiation.

Lack of copper in the skin enhances the reactions of non-enzymatic glycosylation of proteins, causing loss of skin firmness and elasticity.

With a lack of copper, the synthesis of melanin pigment is disrupted, hair turns gray rapidly, and skin stem cells lose their ability to proliferate and differentiate, regeneration processes slow down in tissues.

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How does copper activity manifest itself in cosmetics applied to the skin

Scientists have been trying for a long time to find out by what mechanisms of action gold in cosmetics improves skin properties. It appears to activate proteins that transport and concentrate copper in the skin.

In order for copper to penetrate as intended, it is combined with the GHK tripeptide. This tripeptide has a very high affinity for copper ions, forms complexes with it and helps to penetrate the stratum corneum of the skin. Further, copper molecules spread throughout the body with the blood stream, are incorporated into enzymes, and start redox reactions.

Free copper ions are highly reactive and, if present in excess, can initiate free radical reactions that damage the skin. Therefore, it is necessary to use cosmetics with copper carefully.

In order to prevent danger, along with copper, substances are introduced into cosmetics that neutralize the activity of its ions. The GHK tripeptide is able to control the distribution of copper in the body by transferring ions to the cells that need them.

Another way to avoid possible toxic effects of copper – use in cosmetics not salts of this metal, but ingredients rich in biological copper:
•    black caviar extract – rich in growth factors, amino acids, easily digestible lipids;
•    fermented marine bacteria extract – contains antioxidant enzymes that have the properties of superoxide dismutase, but are stronger;
•    seaweed extract, acai berries, aloe juice – stimulate cell renewal, accelerate the healing of minor injuries, improve complexion.

In combination with a tripeptide that promotes the absorption of copper and other elements from bioactive copper-containing ingredients, it is possible to increase the activity of skin fibroblasts, stimulate skin stem cells and improve its condition, preventing the manifestation of the toxic properties of copper.

Read also: Algae in cosmetics: properties and application features

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