Aurélie Guillot is rightfully called an innovator in modern aesthetic medicine and cosmetology. She has several dozens of research and development of innovative cosmetic products. Her scientific discoveries on the issue of the effective use of peptide cosmetics have been introduced into the technology for the production of cosmetics by such & nbsp; industry giants like Bioderma, Etat Pur and Institut Esthederm.
"We can't avoid aging, but we can age gracefully," the expert said. According to her, a positive attitude towards aging should be perceived as an opportunity for age management. At the conference for cosmetologists "Peptides and Polynucleotides" from Institut Esthederm in an exclusive interview for estet-portal.com, the researcher spoke about the latest trends in the use of peptide cosmetics, its benefits and the latest developments that will help prevent early skin aging.
Peptides are increasingly used in aesthetic medicine, what is the reason for this?
First of all, this is due to the fact that we are more and more thoroughly studying our body and the mechanisms of its work. The first steps towards understanding the action and capabilities of peptides were taken in 2003, when scientists were able to analyze the information encoded in DNA, and it became known that one part of the genome is responsible for protein production.
Science is moving forward so rapidly that if it was impossible to identify peptides before, now we already know how to recognize them at the micro level. They are very active and have a wide range of qualities that we can use in new generation cosmetics.
I will also add that earlier peptides could only be obtained from food (protein hydrolysis). But this can hardly be called a sufficiently effective method for obtaining organic matter, because by eating a product, we get a mix of a large number of different peptides, as a result of which their effectiveness decreases.
It is worth considering that along with this "cocktail", we get viruses, bacteria, allergens and other components that are difficult for us to regulate and, in fact, we do not need them at all for work.
But now we already know how to produce peptides synthetically, thus ensuring the correctness of the formula and the purity of the molecule, so they are even safe for use in injection techniques.
Tell us more about the mechanism of action of peptides in the skin.
We can't talk about the mechanism of action of peptides in general, because there are many varieties of them and each of them works according to its own algorithm. In the modern cosmetic industry, from 20 to 50 types of peptides are used, which are well enough studied to be used in cosmetology.
In fact, peptides are messengers: they transmit information that is well recognized by the cell, due to which their effective effect on cells is achieved. Due to this, the aging process of the skin slows down.
Another — the use of two peptides in conjunction: a tripeptide and a tetrapeptide. In this synergistic effect, they stimulate the production of fibroblasts in the cell and solve the problem associated, for example, with a lack of fibers.
For what purposes can peptide cosmetics be used?
This question is currently under the scrutiny of researchers, because we do not yet know all the possibilities of peptides. But it has been proven that with their help, the process of cell renewal starts in the epidermis and the production of fibroblasts is stimulated, thanks to which it is possible to prevent early skin aging.
There are active peptides that stimulate the production of melanin and those that, on the contrary, suppress the production of this pigment, thereby providing a brightening effect.
There are peptides that solve the problem of skin hypersensitivity, redness and irritation of the skin, and even those that have fat burning properties. Yes, that's right: if only two units are swapped in the anti-aging GHK peptide (one of the most well-studied), it will promote weight loss.
What are the main advantages of peptide cosmetics
I am sure that this is one of the best anti-age solutions: the total amount of protein in the skin decreases with age, and with the help of peptides it is possible to achieve a pronounced renewal and rejuvenation of the skin. In addition, peptides help to strengthen the cells' own protective functions, so that they function better.
What global trends in the use of peptides are relevant today?
Injection is not very popular in France, but in some countries this way of working with peptides is rapidly gaining momentum. Therefore, it is difficult to talk about trends in the use of peptides on a global scale: they are specific to individual regions or countries.
But here's what's interesting: in the Soviet Union, a lot of research was done to find a way to increase the strength and endurance of athletes and soldiers. Once one of the experts said the following phrase: "Not a single gold medal in the Olympic Games (or other championships) was won without the help of peptides." I am sure that in the future attention to peptides will not fade away, and we will be able to maximize their potential and the full range of positive effects on the body.
Tell us about the latest developments in skin care and the fight against premature skin aging.
It is widely believed that premature skin aging is due to a genetic factor. In fact, recent research has proven that microRNAs are modified by our lifestyle and environment. These miRNAs, in turn, can regulate or even block protein production. Unfortunately, microRNA production increases with age, driven largely by unhealthy diets, unhealthy lifestyles, and environmental pollution.
Recent studies have discovered a peptide that interacts with miRNAs. And this means that if now we can work with DNA only at the level of peptides and proteins, it is quite possible that in the future we will be able to invent a miRNA counterpart, which will create a very powerful anti-age effect.
The difficulty of conducting research lies in the fact that microRNA molecules are very difficult to "keep"; and do something with them, because they live for nanoseconds. Hopefully in the future we will be able to "catch" them, but at this stage we are only working with a more pliable protein.
Also, quite recently, scientists from the American Research Center made a very important, in my opinion, statement that they have learned to reprogram the cell. What does it mean? Imagine that you can transform adipose tissue into muscle. 20 years ago, if I had heard this information, I would have said “No, this is absolutely impossible!”, but now I sincerely believe that it is really possible to transform one type of cell into another. The researchers of this center, in close cooperation with mathematicians, were able to prove that, using biological information and a certain mathematical algorithm, it is possible with probability to & nbsp; 100% reprogram the cell to any other cell in the human body.
There are rumors that the use of peptide cosmetics can stimulate the growth of cancer cells. Is it true?
In fact, the growth factors of malignant cells are not peptides, but proteins. Their molecules are larger in size, so it is impossible to use the growth factor on the skin, because it will never cross the skin barrier and will not act inside the cell.
We use only tiny parts of the growth factor molecule that have access only to certain functions and trigger only the mechanisms we need.
But it should be noted that growth factors have a wide range of effects on cell functions, one of their main tasks – effect on cell division. Therefore, if we assume the possibility of using a complete growth factor, of course, there is a possibility that malignant cells will begin to divide. But, I repeat, this is not about peptide cosmetics.
To conclude, I would like to add that although peptides are still under research, some of them have been well known for a long time. So, for example, the tetrapeptide, which I mentioned earlier, has been used since 1973, which means & nbsp; we already have certain toxicological studies confirming the safety of its use.
What would you recommend to women who want to slow down skin aging?
80-90% of premature skin aging factors are due to our lifestyle and environmental influences, and only 10-20% constitutes a genetic predisposition. Therefore, the condition of our skin directly depends on the care of it and the body as a whole.
I would like to point out a few simple rules, compliance which will prevent premature aging of the skin:
- healthy and balanced diet;
- correctly selected cosmetics. Leather — the same important human organ as the heart or lungs, therefore, all means must be of high quality and suitable for a particular person;
- don't "retreat" skin. You do not take mountains of medicines unnecessarily and do not mix them with water. Therefore, it is very important to find a specialist who can competently develop a skin care program taking into account your individual characteristics;
- proper cleansing. The first rule that you very often break or completely ignore: no matter how tired you are in the evening, be sure to remove your makeup!
- moisturizing. From the age of 25, girls should use a moisturizer not only at night, but also in the morning to prevent early skin aging.
Remember, water doesn't clean your skin well, because it doesn't wash away lipids. Therefore, if you want to have healthy and shiny skin, choose a quality makeup remover that will be gentle on the skin and effectively remove all impurities.
I would also like to mention our anchor product – cell water. You can apply it both in the evening and in the morning, thereby helping your skin to activate its resources, recover and stay young longer.
See also: Express remedies for skin recovery after cosmetic procedures
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