What did we know about the stratum corneum before? It was considered an accumulation of dead cells that needed to be constantly exfoliated. Recent scientific research, however, has rehabilitated the reputation of the stratum corneum along with the microbiome.
Now it is not useless, but a unique defense mechanism of our body, thanks to which the deep layers of the skin do not suffer from mechanical damage and the influence of negative environmental factors. In other words, it is worth not only to stop self-interventions in the integrity of the skin barrier, but also to start thinking about its restoration and regular support.
To this end, estet-portal presents the dermaviduals® line of dermatological cosmetics, designed to prevent skin barrier disorders.
What is the peculiarity of the skin barrier and what is its role
Professor Albert Kligman, one of the founders of cosmeceuticals, was the first to speak about the importance of the stratum corneum for skin health. In his research, he came to the conclusion that the stratum corneum – it is a dynamic and very active fabric that has certain functions and a slender structure.
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The stratum corneum performs the role of a barrier to external stimuli due to its unique structure. It consists of keratinized scales and multi-layered lipid layers, interconnected like bricks and cement that form the foundation.
The lipid layer of the skin is extremely important. When it is destroyed, the permeability of the skin increases dramatically, and the skin not only becomes vulnerable to microbes and toxins, but also rapidly dehydrates.
Destroying one of these – lipid layer – we make the skin vulnerable to microbes and toxins, resulting in inflammation and irritation. The permeability of the skin increases dramatically: the stratum corneum does not retain moisture in the deep layers, so symptoms of dehydration appear (dryness, itching, peeling).
It is the violation of lipid barrier functions that underlies such skin diseases as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, eczema, acne, etc.
Restoring the protective barrier of the skin will protect against skin diseases
The concept of preserving the integrity of the stratum corneum is also at the heart of anti-age therapy.
Prevention of premature skin aging is carried out in three directions:
- restoration of the skin barrier in the presence of visible damage
- strengthening during periods of weakening
- support for more effective protection against aggressive external factors.
KOKO GmbH & Co KG (Germany). A series of products is called dermaviduals®, it has been presented in Ukraine since January 2012.
How to strengthen the skin barrier with cosmetics
The main task of the preparations dermaviduals® – normalization of the integrity of the stratum corneum by external influence. In terms of efficiency, they are not inferior to injection methods. In addition, when using dermaviduals® no side effects.
Basic principles of drug operation:
• use of physiological lipids similar to those of the stratum corneum;
• absence in the composition of substances that can damage the stratum corneum, as well as slowing down the regeneration process;
• use of antioxidants and natural moisturizing factor (NMF).
Creams from the line are a lamellar emulsion – a fine mixture of oil, as well as fat-like substances, and water. It differs from the traditional emulsion by the absence of emulsifiers in the composition. Instead of creating conventional emulsions, dermaviduals® creams use DMS® derma-membrane structures. This is a lipid composition similar to the stratum corneum in terms of qualitative and quantitative composition.
DMS®-structures restore and maintain the lipid barrier, having the unique property of forming spatial structures similar to the structure of the epidermal barrier.
The advantage of the systems is that they do not contain emulsifiers and preservatives, are hypoallergenic and physiological, restore and maintain the lipid barrier and promote natural skin regeneration.
Properties of drugs that strengthen and restore the skin barrier
The dermaviduals® system of customized formulations allows you to create skin care products according to the specific skin problems of the client. Preparations do not contain preservatives, fragrances and other substances that can cause allergic reactions.
The base product of dermaviduals® cosmetics is DMS®-basiscreme (basic/basic DMS®-cream). It can be enriched with active ingredients and thus adapted to solve various skin pathologies. The role of active ingredients is performed by both traditional substances for cosmeceuticals and a number of innovative products.
Most of the active ingredients are encapsulated in liposomes and nanoparticles, the size of which, depending on the type of active substance, varies from 25 to 200 nm.
Functions and structure of the skin: composition of the lipid barrier of the skin
Liposomal and nanosomal capsules serve as transepidermal transport, delivering water- and fat-soluble components to the deep layers of the skin. At the same time, due to the high content of linoleic acid, the particles have their own reducing activity.
Due to its versatility, dermaviduals® products are compatible with any skin type and guarantee reliable protection of the stratum corneum, its restoration and strengthening.
Read also: Corneotherapy preparations help to restore the skin's protective barrier
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