Each of the skin types requires special care. This is especially true for oily and problem skin. After all, there is a rather extensive list of what is forbidden to do with it. Therefore, it is necessary to clearly understand what products are needed for this type of skin, which components help to reduce the activity of the sebaceous glands, and which, on the contrary, contribute to its activation.
In addition, it is worth understanding that often oily skin type is accompanied by a number of problems with it, which also require an understanding of how to deal with them. It is these questions that the editors of Estet-portal decided to analyze today.
Causes of oily skin
Oily skin — this is an inevitable consequence of increased activity of the sebaceous glands. Increased sebum secretion is most often due to the constitutional features of the skin, but may be the result of hormonal imbalance, for example, in puberty or during pregnancy; provoked by neuropsychiatric disorders (schizophrenia, manic-depressive psychosis, postencephalic and post-stroke syndrome); some endocrine diseases, pathology of the gastrointestinal tract, inadequate cosmetic skin care.
Oily and problematic skin is found in women and men, more often at a young age. Grayish skin tone, pronounced oily sheen, rough pattern, rough surface, large pores, acne — Here is a far from complete list of depressing symptoms characteristic of oily skin. And if in winter, when the central heating is turned on, oily skin becomes somewhat drier, then in summer all problems are exacerbated.
In the development of seborrhea and the most common complication that occurs against its background, — acne, there are several pathogenetic factors:
- hyperproduction of sebum;
- follicular hyperkeratosis;
- bacterial activity;
- inflammation.
An increase in the amount of sebum is accompanied by its qualitative changes. These changes relate primarily to the concentration of linoleic acid — unsaturated fatty acid, which is an indispensable building block of any cell membranes.
A decrease in the concentration of linoleic acid leads to a decrease in the pH of sebum, a change in the permeability of the epithelium of the follicles and a violation of the barrier function of the epithelium. Favorable conditions are created for the growth of microorganisms on the surface of the skin and inside the follicles. These are primarily Propionibacterium acnes, fungi of the genus Pytirosporum and Staphylococcus epidermitis. In the process of life, these microorganisms utilize sebum with the help of various lipases, which leads to an increase in the concentration of free fatty acids in the composition of sebum and a decrease in the bactericidal and fungicidal properties of the skin.
Violation of the processes of keratinization in the upper part of the hair follicle leads to the accumulation of sebum in the hair follicle and the formation of microcomedones first, and then closed and open comedones. In the conditions of a comedone, microorganisms actively multiply, as a result of which inflammatory mediators are released and inflammatory elements appear in the dermis.
Specialities for oily skin care
Care for oily skin thus consists in high-quality cleansing, reduction of microbial contamination, reduction of sebaceous secretion, elimination of hyperkeratosis, improvement of appearance (masking skin defects), protection from the sun and other sources of ultraviolet radiation, moisturizing and absorption of sebum .
Cleansing should be done gently and delicately, no matter how rough and greasy the skin is. Soaps, foams, emulsions, gels, milks, lotions, tonics are used among products that gently cleanse oily skin prone to acne.
For washing it is always better to use warm or room temperature water, do not rub the skin with your hands or a sponge, be sure to rinse the cleanser well. Cleansers should have a neutral or acidic pH, since changing the pH of the medium to alkaline — a good condition for P. acnes colonization. It is best to avoid bar soaps that dry out the skin more as they contain coarser ingredients.
It is preferable to use syndet soap — so-called "soap-free soap" with a pH of 5.5-7.0. For these purposes, Exfoliac — cleansing foaming gel containing ammonium lactate, which has a keratoregulatory effect; zinc lactate, which reduces sebum secretion; a combination of mild surface-active substances (surfactants), which qualitatively cleanse the skin, do not disturb the hydrolipidic film and do not cause reactive hyperseborrhea.
You need to wash your face 1 & ndash; 2 times a day. The choice of cleansers depends on the individual sensitivity of the patient's skin. In some people, frequent washing with soaps and gels causes the appearance of erythematous-squamous rashes and a decrease in the barrier properties of the skin. They can be recommended a new skin cleanser Exfoliac — micellar cleansing water, which can also be used to remove make-up.
Micellar cleansing water gently cleanses the skin, free of alcohol, soap and dyes. The composition of water and mild surfactants forms microspheres, invisible to the naked eye, which are able to remove dirt and make-up residues mixed with sebum from the skin surface, without requiring rinsing with water. Micellar water is also used twice a day: in the morning — to cleanse the skin and prepare it for the application of therapeutic range or additional care products, and in the evening — to remove make-up, improve the skin, remove excess sebum and sweat.
After thorough cleansing, it is advisable to use exfoliating agents 2–3 times a week.
Cleansing for oily skin
Exfoliation — the procedure for removing horny scales, which, with oily skin, do not exfoliate on their own. The purpose of this procedure — smoothing the surface of the skin, improving its texture and color, freeing the mouths of the sebaceous-hair follicles from the substances accumulated there and thus ensuring a freer outflow of sebum.
For the purpose of exfoliation, mechanical and chemical methods (scrubs, creams, masks) are used. Scrubs contain abrasive substances. So that the action is not too rough and does not damage the skin, it is not recommended to rub it strongly. Creams — are more gentle on the skin. exfoliants, which may include small concentrations (1 & ndash; 2%) of alpha, beta and polyhydroacids.
For example, Exfoliac exfoliating gel contains free alpha hydroxy acids (ANA) (glycolic acid), which have a chemical exfoliating effect; neutralized AHA (ammonium lactate), which has a moisturizing and keratoregulating effect, polyethylene particles that gently exfoliate horny cells without the risk of irritation.
In addition, the hydrating exfoliating gel contains glycerol. For more effective skin cleansing — synthetic detergents.
This exfoliant is recommended to be used no more than 2-3 times a week, since skin exfoliation should not be abused. The thickness of the stratum corneum is limited, and after its removal, further attempts at exfoliation lead to damage to the stratum corneum. The skin becomes easily vulnerable, hyperemic, irritated, with hypersensitivity. Unfortunately, both patients and some cosmetologists still practice classical traumatic cleaning with extrusion and coagulation, which in most cases not only does not lead to a stable positive result, but also leads to the formation of iatrogenic skin defects.
"The stratum corneum. Things to remember"
Frequent intensive extrusion, especially with the use of a metal spoon, causes premature aging of the skin, and after coagulation, scars of varying severity remain. When trying to cleanse the skin of pustules, there is always a risk of dissemination of microorganisms over the entire surface and the appearance of many additional pustules.
Tonic lotion or freshener is selected according to the severity of acne and the intensity of sebum secretion. With moderate hypersecretion, thick sebaceous secretion and the absence or small amount of inflammatory elements, it is advisable to use non-alcoholic lotions with the addition of aloe extract, chamomile, witch hazel, calendula, menthol and eucalyptus oils, which improves microcirculation, reduces inflammation and skin irritation. A good effect is also observed when using lotions containing AHA, as they have a keratoregulatory and moisturizing effect.
For example, Exfoliac lotion contains AHA and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) (glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids), zinc pyrrolidone, which has a sebum-regulating effect, and bisabolol as an anti-inflammatory and soothing agent. The drug is intended for use on large areas:
- face, chest, back;
- effective for comedones and pustules.
In severe hypersecretion, the presence of acne, preference is given to drugs with antimicrobial action. In this case, the drug is applied locally. Exfoliac NC-Gel contains niacinamide or nicotinamide (a derivative of vitamin B3), which has anti-inflammatory, antihistamine and anti-radical effects; ethyl alcohol, aluminum and magnesium silicate to give a matting effect. The gel is applied in the morning and evening on the inflamed elements.
Moisturizing specific for oily skin
Moisturizers — an important component of any skin care. The most popular way to moisturize — use of moisturizers. With a high fat content, it is better to do without a cream at all, replacing it with a tonic, gel, serum or milk. If the cream is still used, then it should not be in the form of a greasy cream or ointment, should not contain comedogenic compounds that impede the outflow of sebum.
Usually these requirements are taken into account by manufacturers of professional cosmetics. The choice of cream should be approached individually, taking into account the characteristics of the skin, the treatment being performed, the time of year, etc. For oily skin prone to acne, it is not recommended to use film-forming occlusive moisturizers. It is preferable to use products containing natural moisturizing factor (NHF) in combination with anti-inflammatory and nourishing ingredients, such as Exfoliac Repairing Moisturizer.
It contains:
- ceramides that restore the skin barrier;
- triglycerides — compensate for the damaged hydrolipidic film;
- alpha-bisabolol has a calming effect;
- glycerin — moisturizing.
This cream can be used for severe dehydration of the skin, in particular after treatment with Roaccutane.
Skin control for acne prone
Patients with oily acne-prone skin should remember that seborrhea and acne cannot be cured once and for all, but they can be kept under control. For this purpose, it is necessary to use pathogenetic cosmetics during care.
The main active substances contained in them can be divided into several groups according to the mechanism of action:
- Seboregulators:
- retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, 18-beta-glyceric acid in combination with zinc, etc.);
- 5-alpha reductase blockers (extracts of sabal and creeping serenoa, fireweed, pumpkin, green tea, zinc, gamma-linolenic and linoleic acid, azenoloic acid, etc.);
- plant extracts (burdock, cedar, fir, field cornflower, etc.).
- Regulators of proliferation and differentiation:
- nordihydroguaiaretic acid;
- retinoids, lipoic and linolenic acids;
- borage oil and avocado;
- phosphatidylcholine.
- Anti-inflammatory:
- linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids;
- nordihydroguaiaretic acid;
- plant extracts (black poplar, witch hazel, aloe vera, chamomile, calendula, tea tree leaves, sage, linden, alfalfa, tricolor violet, etc.);
- allantoin;
- bisabolol;
- panthenol;
- 5-alpha reductase blockers;
- azelaic acid;
- antibacterial agents (indirectly).
- Antibacterial, antimycotic:
- triclosan;
- triclocarban;
- miramistin;
- sulphur;
- plant extracts (calendula, chamomile, burdock, cedar, fir, rosemary, green tea, kiwi, orange, juniper, spruce needles, etc.);
- piroctone and olamine;
- essential oils of tea tree, clove, lemon, bergamot, cedar.
- Keratolytic:
- alpha and beta hydroxy acids;
- combination of alpha hydroxy acids with amino acids;
- retinoids;
- azeloic acid;
- bodyaga;
- sulphur;
- enzymes (papain, bromelain, etc.).
- Mattifying (fat sorbents):
- silicon;
- aluminum and calcium silicates;
- polymer granules and clay
Most creams intended for oily skin care are multifunctional and contain a combination of active substances of different spectrum of pathogenetic action.
For example, Aknomega 100 and Aknomega 200 creams contain an original keratoactive complex consisting of alpha, beta and omega hydroxy acids, zinc gluconate and bisabolol. These creams have a keratoregulatory, anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating, mattifying and pore-reducing effect and are intended for the care of skin with mild to moderate acne.
Due to the lack of a photosensitizing effect of the preparations, they can be used in the summer, unlike some other cosmetic products containing, for example, retinoids. In addition, very importantly, they do not have a teratogenic effect and are not contraindicated in pregnant and lactating women.
Makeup options for oily skin
For people with oily problematic skin, it is very important to improve the appearance of visible skin areas. This gives them self-confidence, improves their mood, relieves complexes and ultimately promotes recovery. Decorative cosmetics help to achieve this goal. The use of makeup for acne and oily skin helps to hide rashes, smooth out unevenness, highlight certain advantages of the face, make imperfections less noticeable, moisturize the skin, protect it from drying out, and provide sun protection, since many makeup components contain sunscreens.
Contrary to the opinion of some experts, make-up does not interfere with the treatment process. Most external medicines have their effect within the first hour after application, which means that decorative cosmetics can be applied without any harm to the skin one hour after external medicines or therapeutic and prophylactic products, and in the evening the skin should be cleansed before they are applied again.
Modern decorative cosmetics included in the treatment and prophylactic lines have a light texture, do not interfere with sebum and sweating, do not clog the mouths of the sweat glands and hair follicles, do not contribute to the formation of comedones, do not cause irritation, are not allergenic. A variety of shades of concealers makes their presence on the skin almost invisible, which allows them to be used not only by women, but also by men.
Sun protection for oily skin
In an oily skin care program, the regular use of sunscreen is also important. Sun exposure is harmful to any skin, although sometimes it seems that in summer the skin looks much better, it has less breakouts and bumps. However, this is only a disguise and not a solution to the problem.
In addition to premature aging, age spots, skin tumors that can be induced by solar radiation, patients with oily skin experience an increase in sebaceous secretion in the hot season, the formation of a large number of comedones and enlarged pores. For patients with oily skin and acne, it is better to choose sunscreens in the form of emulsions or light creams.
The degree of sun protection depends on the skin phototype (the lighter the skin, the higher the SPF should be), as well as on the drugs and cosmetics used by the patient.
Maximum sun protection should be used when treating with keratolytic as well as photosensitizing agents. Many therapeutic and prophylactic cosmetic lines contain sunscreens adapted to the problems of oily skin. In particular, the Exfoliac line introduces a light SPF 25 sunscreen designed for oily and combination skin.
Chemical and mineral sunscreens provide protection against ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) rays, AHA esters moisturize the skin, mattifying microparticles reduce skin shine. It is recommended to apply the cream 30 minutes before sun exposure and reapply as often as possible. Any sunscreen is applied at the very end of skin care procedures over decorative or medicinal substances. After sun exposure is over, sunscreen should be washed off with one of the gentle cleansers, such as Exfoliac Micellar Cleansing Water.
According to www.lvrach.ru
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