To effectively fight against aging, it is not enough to use good cosmetics and know by heart the names of the ingredients that can restore youth to the skin. The cosmetologist selects a program of procedures and home care products depending on the type of aging. Only a careful consideration of genetic factors, the structure of the layers of the skin and the facial skeleton allows the most effective prevention and correction of existing age-related changes.
Insufficient and delayed cell regeneration, hormonal changes - all these are signs of aging, the first of which begin to appear after 25 years. Plus stress, malnutrition and the environment - and women come to the beautician for advice and salvation.
Why does the skin lose its vitality
It is the skin that first meets the aggressive effects of the environment. Over time, it loses moisture, becomes thinner, and does not regenerate so quickly. The elasticity of the fibers decreases, primarily due to the fact that fibroblasts gradually stop producing collagen. Affect skin condition and hormonal signals. The changes relate to metabolic processes in the subcutaneous adipose tissue. In addition, muscle tone is reduced. The sun's rays also contribute: ultraviolet stimulates the so-called photoaging. And now wrinkles appear: static ones are the result of a decrease in muscle tone, mimic ones are the result of an emotional reaction, gravitational ones are a tribute to gravity.
According to the modern classification, aging is a complex of morphological and functional changes occurring under the influence of external and internal factors, which is characterized by a slowdown in all body functions. Facial aging is the result of structural and functional changes in all layers of the skin (epidermis and dermis), soft tissues (subcutaneous fat, muscles, connective tissue) and bone structures of the facial skeleton. These processes lead to characteristic three-dimensional changes in the volumes and contours of the face. There are biological (or chrono-) aging, caused to a greater extent by genetic factors and hormonal changes, and “external” aging.
External causes of aging include:
- exposure to UV irradiation;
- tobacco smoking;
- stress;
- environmental state.
The generally accepted classification of aging morphotypes: “tired”, deformation, finely wrinkled, muscular and combined types. To them, the cosmetologist adds the "senile emaciated face", which is formed in people after 75 years with pronounced signs of aging.
"Tired" type of facial aging
Description: The first morphotype of aging, "tired", is typical for normosthenics and asthenics, with normal (in terms of oiliness and moisture) skin of medium thickness. Subcutaneous adipose tissue is moderately expressed, skin sensitivity is often normal, much less often – increased.
"Tired" morphotype is formed more often in thin women with an oval or diamond-shaped face, with normal or moderately dry skin. With age, the drooping of the corners of the eyes and lips, the accentuation of the nasolacrimal sulcus and the nasolabial fold are noted, the contours of the face change slightly, however, the "youthful" the oval is no longer visible. The color and texture of the skin changes, but permanent wrinkles are most often absent.
"Tired" this type is called because of the more pronounced changes in the middle third of the face. From the outside, people look tired and sleepy. Wrinkles are moderately expressed, a deep infraorbital groove is characteristic, associated with a flattening of the molar zone, the corners of the mouth are lowered, the nasolabial fold is strongly pronounced, bags under the eyes. The skin is dry and dull, earthy in color. There is tissue fading, but there are no permanent wrinkles yet. The lower third of the face and neck area in women with this type of aging are better preserved due to the absence of hypertrophy of subcutaneous fat, so in the morning, after a good rest, the face looks good, and in the evening - tired.
For the correction and prevention of further age-related changes, this type of aging is the most favorable. At the next stage, transformation into a deformation or finely wrinkled type is possible.
Solution: Among the manipulations that are suitable for correcting these changes are procedures that increase the tone of mimic muscles (massage, myostimulation), improve microcirculation and metabolic processes in the skin (microcurrent therapy), stimulate collagen production and glycosaminoglycans (mesotherapy and biorevitalization), improving skin texture (chemical peels).
For prophylactic purposes, it is recommended to prescribe drugs containing cell proliferation stimulants. These ingredients include plant stem cells. In addition, cosmetics for the "tired" type, ideally, should contain vitamins, antioxidants and phytoestrogens. Best of all, cosmetics based on hyaluronic acid cope with a "tired" face. The main task is to increase the hydration of the epidermis and dermis through direct stimulation of keratinocytes.
We should also remember about hardware cosmetology for increasing muscle tone and toning manual massages. RF and ultrasound lifting, IPL, dermatonia, microcurrents, myostimulation are recommended.
You can also resort to volumetric contouring: to fill the volume of the bucco-zygomatic region, correct the infraorbital and nasopharyngeal furrows, nasolabial folds and puppet wrinkles. But the approach to botulinum therapy should be balanced due to the development of age-related muscle hypotrophy by the age of 50-55, which requires the introduction of low doses of the toxin - in order to avoid complications: drooping eyebrows, swelling of the infraorbital region.
Fine wrinkled type of aging
Description: Women with this type of aging tend to have a round or oval face when young, either remaining or becoming rectangular with age. Usually these are asthenics, in whom, after the onset of menopause, an increase in body weight may be noted. The skin is often thin, subcutaneous fatty tissue is poorly expressed. The dominant feature of this type of aging is wrinkles.
Patients with a finely wrinkled type of aging tend to have thin, dry skin, often with rosacea. The predominant symptom in this type of aging is multidirectional wrinkles: "crow's feet" in the eye area, wrinkling of the upper and lower eyelids, "purse-string" wrinkles around the lips, striation in the cheek area, "mottled" pigmentation (a marker of photoaging).
Severity of photoaging is moderate to severe. This entails more pronounced hyperpigmentation and hyperkeratosis. Ptosis of the lower third of the face is moderate, the key areas of correction are perioral and periorbital.
Solution: For such patients, procedures with the use of hyaluronic acid will be a real find: both with the help of injections and without injections (phonophoresis, electroporation, etc.). To improve tone and reduce the appearance of wrinkles, the expert recommends chemical peels: superficial and median.
Patients need cosmetics with antioxidants, soothing, moisturizing ingredients, phytoestrogens, as well as botulinum toxin analogs.
Botulinum therapy itself is also effective, but after 50-55 years it should be carried out carefully and often in combination with injection plastics with hyaluronic preparations acids.
Of the hardware methods, IPL-therapy, microcurrent therapy, myostimulation are recommended.
Deformation type of aging
The third, deformational type of aging is characteristic of normo- and hypersthenics. It is divided into edematous and vascular types. The dominant feature is a change in the configuration of the face and neck, deformation of the soft tissues of the face.
Description. The deformation type of aging is the most difficult to correct in a conventional beauty parlor, but about 60 percent of our compatriots age according to this type. It affects women who are prone to overweight, owners of a round or square face, with oily porous skin. With age, an excess of subcutaneous fatty tissue leads to a pronounced change in the contours: the formation of "flews", sagging of the chin and neck skin, the formation of bags under the eyes, and overhanging eyelids. Often, due to hypertension, a pronounced vascular network (rosacea) appears.
Photoaging, more often, of mild and moderate severity. The skin is sensitive, especially in the presence of a vascular component. The key areas for face correction are the middle and lower thirds.
Solution: The main task of a cosmetologist in case of deformation type of skin aging is to increase collagen production. For this, peels of different depths, injections of slowly absorbable forms of hyaluronic acid and collagen, and cosmetic preparations containing biominerals, ascorbic acid and retinol are used.
With the deformation type, the priority method of rejuvenation is plastic surgery. And cosmetic preparations, such as muscle relaxants and bleaching agents, will be able to maintain the result. Such patients are suitable for courses of plasticizing or sculptural massage to strengthen the muscular frame. A good effect will give contouring.
Volume-contour plastic is performed in the area of the cheekbones, infraorbital region, nasolabial grooves, nasolabial folds, perioral and marionette wrinkles and involves the gradual introduction of up to 10-20 milliliters of drugs. Due to the increased sensitivity of the skin during photoaging therapy, fractional photothermolysis and medium peels based on TCA or retinol are most effective - in combination with active inter- and post-peel care and photoprotection.
Muscular type of aging
Description: The fourth morphotype, muscular, is characteristic of Asian women. Such patients have pronounced mimic muscles, moderately elastic skin, which is hardly displaced relative to the underlying tissues. Aging is expressed by hypotrophy and atrophy of muscles and skin, pigmentation disorders, facial skeletonization (retraction of the eyes, accentuation of the nasolacrimal groove and nasolabial fold). The contour of the face, as a rule, is not changed.
If a cosmetologist has determined the muscular type of aging in a woman with a Slavic type of appearance, then he will have to select a strategy and tactics to deal with specific manifestations.
Solution: Cosmetologists note that such aging is well corrected by biorevitalization, contouring, median peels, retinoic and fractional photothermolysis. Botulinum therapy and IPL therapy are effective. In addition, the patient should be reminded of careful photoprotection.
Combined type of aging
Description: The fifth morphotype, combined, is characterized by the presence of almost all of the above features: oval deformation, and a decrease in elasticity, and the formation of wrinkles. Accordingly, the problem needs to be solved based on which symptom is most pronounced, combining all methods.
Combined aging is characteristic of people with moderately expressed subcutaneous fatty tissue, moderate dryness and thinning of the skin. This form of aging usually occurs in the early stages.
Solution: For people with combined type, it is effective to combine and alternate cosmetic procedures and plastic surgery. Peelings of various depths, collagen injections and slowly absorbing forms of hyaluronic acid will help. Priority should be cosmetic preparations containing fruit acids, biominerals, ascorbic acid and retinol. These components enhance the production of endogenous collagen and elastin.
Note: Despite a clear classification, in practice, as a rule, a combination of various types of age-related skin changes is observed.
Accordingly, a program for the correction and prevention of external manifestations of aging should be developed depending on the signs of a particular type of aging. It is also important to take into account the drugs used by the patient, his somatic status, including allergic anamnesis.
Summarizing, we note that the correct diagnosis of the type of aging and an integrated approach will allow the most effective prevention and correction of existing age-related changes.
According to the materials of the site allseason.ru
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