How deeply can the active ingredients of cosmetics penetrate? On this issue, the opinions of cosmetologists are divided: some are convinced that cosmetics work only at the level of the stratum corneum, others believe that it can reach deeper layers of the epidermis and even the dermis.
Increasing the effectiveness of cosmeceutical products has become possible thanks to innovative technologies that provide transfollicular delivery of active ingredients to the dermal layer of the skin. Daniil Kashik, a doctor of aesthetic medicine, coach of Ukrainian Aesthetics, spoke about the advantages and possibilities of such technologies.
What determines the effectiveness of transfollicular delivery of active substances
Various laboratories and pharmacological companies have been conducting research for a long time aimed at studying the delivery of cosmetic substances to the dermal layer of the skin. However, in 2008, studies found that the penetration of active substances through the hair follicles is higher than with interfollicular administration.
Scientists from the Juvilis laboratory have determined the optimal absorption parameters for the penetration of active ingredients into the epithelium of the hair follicle.
The perspective of transfollicular delivery of certain substances is due to the fact that in the area of the follicles there are accumulations of not only immune, but also stem cells. Thus, in addition to skin immunization, stimulation of cell proliferation is also ensured.
Today, the transfollicular delivery route is actively used not only in cosmetology, but also in pharmacology.
FILLERTRANS® technology: hair follicles – storage of active substances
It was later discovered that the hair follicle is not only an effective conductor, but also a fairly reliable storage, a kind of depot of active ingredients. The first such ability of the follicle was used by the company Juvilis (the official representative of – Ukrainian Aesthetics) in the FILLERTRANS® technology.
The company has gone beyond just adding active ingredients for storage and transportation in follicles – Juvilis products began to use filler components. With daily use of filler substances, reservoirs are formed inside the follicles. From this storage, ions and partially dissolved filler particles are absorbed into the dermis. This process does not interfere with the natural excretory function of the follicles and does not provoke acne.
It is already known that after one application, the follicles are able to store active substances for up to 10 days; while they are in the stratum corneum no more than 24 hours. Thanks to this, the transfollicular path – a more reliable and modern way to deliver active ingredients.
Innovation in cosmetics: the first transdermal fillers for topical application
How the fillers in Juvilis products affect the skin
It is important to understand that the filler itself is not stored in the hair follicle, but the derivatives that are formed during its degradation. The main fillers on the market are based on calcium hydroxyapatite, tricalcium phosphate, poly-L-lactic and hyaluronic acid.
Each of the materials has its own characteristics:
- calcium ions, into which calcium hydroxyapatite decomposes, improve skin microrelief;
- Phosphate ions released as a result of the degradation of tricalcium phosphate help to increase skin elasticity;
- The lactic acid produced by the breakdown of poly-L-lactic acid fillers accelerates skin cell renewal.
Six patient studies were conducted to confirm evidence of follicular absorption and storage of ingredients. Two different formulations containing tricalcium phosphate and calcium hydroxyapatite were applied to the skin of the patients' hands.
Three days later, the results of the application of the formulations were evaluated by confocal microscopy. Images obtained with a Malvern Viva Scope 1500 microscope demonstrated the presence of partially dissolved filler particles visible through refraction in the papillary dermis; no particles were found in the placebo area.
It is important to understand that it is not the filler itself that is stored in the hair follicle, but the derivatives that are formed during its degradation.
The transfollicular way of delivering active ingredients is currently used by many manufacturers, however, the Spanish company Juvilis, represented on the domestic market by Ukrainian Aesthetics, was the first to apply the technology for delivering filler substances through the hair follicles.
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