Candidate of Medical Sciences, dermatovenereologist of the highest category, cosmetologist, chief physician of the Madeleine Cosmetology Center, scientific director of the cosmetology department of the Ukrainian Academy of Dermatovenereology InAlentina Grigoryevna Zolotareva tells how to choose the right enzyme preparation.
– What innovations over the past year have impressed you the most?
V.Z. What struck me the most was that the company uses medical developments based on academic knowledge from the field of microbiology, biochemistry and the latest nanotechnologies, including those related to enzymes.
Enzymes are the catalysts for all metabolic processes. That is why it is important to use enzymes such as keratinase, collagenase, hyaluronidase and lipase.
Keratinase contributes to the fact that the structure of the epidermis becomes looser, and the connections between the cells of the epidermis are less dense.
This ensures faster and better delivery of biologically active ingredients to deep layers of the skin. Thanks to keratinase, the permeability of the epidermis increases by more than 4 times. We all understand how important this is for solving such aesthetic problems as hyperkeratosis, smoothing the microrelief of the skin surface. High permeability improves microcirculation, which leads to improved skin quality.
Dry skin improves the desquamation process and this leads to faster penetration of nutrients. With oily skin, improving its permeability helps to eliminate increased keratosis and thin the secretion of the sebaceous glands, which qualitatively changes the course of acne with closed comedones.
Collagenase is an enzyme that is responsible not only for the destruction of old collagen, but also for the stimulation of new collagen. This balance is very important in the proper management of anti-age therapy. Histological studies have shown that most cosmetic procedures are aimed only at the production of new collagen.
What happens to the old broken fibers? How much can we stimulate collagen synthesis?
V.Z. It is collagenase – an enzyme responsible for the balance of these two processes of reconstruction and destruction. In order for the skin to look young, you need to follow the "golden mean" in this ratio. By injecting collagenase in the correct proportions, it is possible to qualitatively influence the structure of the skin.
Hyaluronidase is an enzyme that is used not only as an ambulance; to eliminate hypercorrection by injections of fillers. Hyaluronidase is used quite often and successfully in the practice of a cosmetologist. However, many people forget that when correcting problems associated with cellulite, it is necessary to start therapy with the use of hyaluronidase. this enzyme breaks down its own hyaluronic acid and thus corrects excess fluid in the hypodermis.
It is thanks to this that a powerful drainage effect occurs, which patients so much need after the use of lipolytics or cavitation procedures. We will get the strongest result with the edematous form of cellulite.
Lipase – an enzyme that is the most powerful catalyst for the breakdown of fats. The versatility of working with this drug lies in the fact that it is not insulin dependent and, unlike other lipolytics, does not cause side effects such as necrosis, inflammatory & nbsp; and allergic reactions. It is the preparation of lyophilized lipase in the complex it is possible to work with hyaluronidase and collagenase to eliminate fat deposits, and not only in problem areas of the body.
This drug is more useful to use to eliminate aesthetic deficiencies associated with deformation and omission of facial fat pads. It is lipase that is the drug of choice for eliminating such problems as a double chin, overhanging the nasolabial folds, the appearance of jellies.
When we choose drugs for work, what should we pay special attention to
V.Z. When I choose drugs in my practice, I always adhere to two main rules - safety and effectiveness. And there is no need to compromise on this issue. It does not matter whether we are faced with the question of injectables or topical agents. It is necessary to understand how these drugs work and from what, more precisely, by what method they are made.
When choosing, always pay attention to the lyophilized form of the release enzyme preparations. The importance of this method of processing preparations is that it allows them not to include preservatives and other additional products of the formulation. This reduces the risk of adverse reactions, and this is the safety and peace of mind of doctors, & nbsp; patient satisfaction. The shelf life of drugs increases to 15 years.
What new you began to use in your practice this year?
V.Z. This year I began to use PBSerum preparations from PROTEOS Biotech Laboratories in injection practice to correct age-related skin changes, such as loss of elasticity and tone, manifestations of chromo- and photoaging, as well as changes in the contour of the face. These preparations differ from those already on the market by the presence of enzymes that normalize and stabilize the processes of breakdown and synthesis of collagen.
When correcting local fat deposits, I use a cocktail of drugs that work to eliminate all pathogenetic links in the development of cellulite.
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