The protective function of the skin: how to restore the integrity of the stratum corneum

In the pursuit of radical facial rejuvenation, patients are ready to spare their skin, firmly believing that new cells will quickly grow in place of the cells removed by chemical or physical methods – young and full of energy. Unfortunately, cosmetologists sometimes get too carried away with corrective actions on the skin of the face, forgetting that its appearance is highly dependent on the integrity of the upper layer of the epidermis. The protective function of the skin needs to be restored not only after injuries and stress, but also in connection with damaging cosmetic procedures. Why this is important, and by what means it is possible to restore the integrity of the stratum corneum, read in the material of our portal.

Why is it necessary to restore and strengthen the protective functions of the skin

The protective functions of the skin are mostly to serve as a cover against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, high and low temperatures and mechanical damage, to act as a barrier that does not allow moisture to evaporate, and also does not allow harmful bacteria, fungi, viruses, toxic substances to enter. .

An important role in the protective functions of the skin is played by the chemical and biological component of the skin barrier – lipids, fatty acids, antimicrobial peptides. They are part of the stratum corneum, responsible for its permeability, providing strength and integrity of the skin.

Natural Moisturizing Factor is part of the homeostasis maintenance system in skin structures and allows moisture to be retained in the skin, maintaining its surface moisture. The content and distribution of moisture in the skin is very important for maintaining the strength of the epidermal barrier. If the water level in the skin decreases, this leads to a deterioration in the activity of the enzymes responsible for the exfoliation of the stratum corneum, which may damage the integrity of the stratum corneum.

Preservation and strengthening of the protective functions of the skin should be one of the most important goals of any cosmetic procedure, since the condition of the stratum corneum determines the reaction of the skin to stress and sunlight, the timing of the appearance of wrinkles and their depth, the risk of hyperpigmentation and hypersensitivity.

Cosmetic ways to restore the protective functions of the skin

If the skin is damaged due to trauma, peeling or a hardware procedure, then the water begins to evaporate intensively, and the main task of the cosmetologist is to stop this process so that the skin cells do not suffer from moisture deficiency and function normally. For this, preparations containing substances that attract and retain water can be used – these are glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol, aloe gel and others. These substances usually have large molecules that adhere to the surface and form a moist film, thanks to which the skin does not suffer from external damaging influences and gradually recovers.

Creams that can create an occlusive barrier will help slow down the evaporation of water in case of impaired protective functions of the skin. They include components that mimic sebum – mineral oil, silicone oils, hard vegetable oils (e.g. shea butter), natural waxes, squalene. Thanks to these components, it is possible to quickly eliminate dry skin, reduce itching and inflammation.

In order to provide the cells of the damaged epidermis with building material for their restoration, lipid products are used. These products include natural oils, which, depending on their lipid composition, have different functions:

• accelerate the synthesis of components of the lipid layer;
• have an anti-inflammatory effect;
• strengthen living epidermal cells;
• mimic the action of sebum and create an occlusive effect.

Particularly useful for restoring the protective functions of the skin are preparations that combine fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol. However, too many lipid preparations should not be used as they can harm the skin.

With an excessive amount of exogenous lipids, they are able to change the properties of the lipid layers of the skin, integrating into their structure, which may disrupt the adequate regulation of the moisture content of the skin layers.

In order to avoid trouble, it is recommended to use cosmetic oils in small amounts and in short courses, but not constantly.