Cosmetic ingredients: how to read labels

We have become accustomed to the fact that the labels of cosmetics must be read very carefully, because they contain important information about the substances contained. The ingredients of cosmetics must not only correspond to the goal that we want to achieve using this or that product, but also not harm our health. Especially when it comes to allergies. What do label phrases like "dermatologically tested" or "tested for harmful substances" mean? How to understand the numerous numbers that accompany the names of cosmetics ingredients? Estet-portal tried to find out these questions from an expert.

 Ben Mones, Designer, Art Director/Technologist  and Distributor, Jojo haircosmetic

 What does the term "dermatological testing" mean

The term "dermatologically tested" has recently appeared frequently on  shampoo bottles, cream  tubes or makeup jars. Other terms such as "clinical trials" or "tested for harmful substances" may also be encountered, which often lead to the assumption that the product is safe for sensitive individuals. But the term "dermatologically tested" only means that the product was tested in the presence of a dermatologist, but does not say anything about the process of researching cosmetic ingredients, an independent audit or scientific registration of the studies carried out.

 Strict self-regulation is the basis of product quality

Of course, "dermatological testing" is also of great importance in determining the quality of products. Thus, the rules established by pharmaceutical manufacturers require that their products undergo rigorous testing at all stages of creation. It includes the science-based concept of examining drug documentation and an accurate, reproducible study as such. Patient tests are carried out at the University Dermatology Clinic. Trials at multiple testing centers under the supervision of different dermatologists help to compensate for any differences that inevitably arise when using the drug in specific countries. Many pharmaceutical companies have their own ethics committees that monitor the correctness of passing tests, the scientific component of testing and even the supply of equipment for these tests. Testing is rarely done on animals. Numerous dermatological tests of products  and ingredients of cosmetics are carried out on skin cells in laboratory conditions.

 Audit Policies for Manufacturing Process

Meanwhile, there are several so-called GMP guidelines that are relevant for the entire European space. GMP stands for "Good Manufacturing Practice" and stands for "Good Manufacturing Practice". Under this scheme, drug production and dermatological testing are controlled worldwide. If an active substance is being produced or will be used for a preparation, it must be prepared in accordance with these principles. The GMP directive establishes certain requirements regarding  staff, product quality control, packaging and labeling, storage and distribution, as well as merchants who will be identified to distribute the drug. However, there is currently no regulatory and monitoring mechanism for drug manufacturers in Europe,

 Cosmetics Ingredients  and drug must be labeled

Labeling of cosmetic ingredients  today  is defined in accordance with EU directives, which allow greater clarity for consumers and are developed by  scientists in the field of cosmetology. All ingredients are designated in  so-called INCI numbers. The International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) was created as a pan-European unification of terminology. So if you, for example, buy cosmetics in France, then, for example, you can determine the content of dyes in it by their INCI number. At the same time, deciphering the ingredient number of cosmetics for the average person is still quite complicated and therefore rarely in demand, so this scheme is especially important for people with allergies.

 Allergy risk assessment based on labeling

Dermatologists and clinics investigate cases of allergy to cosmetic ingredients very carefully. If a substance is indeed causing an increased incidence of allergy morbidity, it is being carefully studied. Many cosmetic colors are listed on the so-called Blue List, which contains a total of four allergy ratings -  it uses numbers from 0 to 4, which indicate how often a substance can cause allergic reactions. This classification is assigned to individual substances with their INCI numbers. For example, the dye CI 40 800 is beta-carotene -  orange pigment of carrot. Its allergic  class  - 0: allergy to it is not observed at all or is extremely rare.

Thus, looking at the labels and ingredients of cosmetics will help you determine if a particular dye contributes to a higher risk of allergies compared to other substances. Allergy sufferers should therefore be aware of the relevant INCI numbers, which hide substances that can cause allergies in them.

Those who want to know exactly what is behind the term "dermatologically tested" in relation to their shampoo bottle should contact the manufacturer and ask for proof. If this request is denied, it may be worth contacting the consumer protection committee. When purchasing dermatological products, be sure to look at the information about them set out by the manufacturer on the front surface of the package. Even if they are offered as particularly beneficial natural products, we are entitled to learn a little about the ingredients themselves and their testing methods.