A woman is faithful to her chosen make-up from a young age to gray hair, which sometimes ruins her. Having once given preference to lipstick of a juicy shade, with which she invitingly painted her lips in her youth, or shadows that phosphorize in color, she is no longer able to part with them. And he doesn’t want to admit at all that such makeup betrays the past years. But with the help of cosmetics, you can not only emphasize your unfading features, but also visually throw off a dozen years, make-up artist Tatiana BOYKO is sure.
Tatiana BOYKO — make-up artist of international class, head of the BOYKO BEAUTY SCHOOL style and make-up school, author of the three-volume book "The Art of Reincarnation".
The Law of Modeling: Pretty Face, Not Makeup
— Tatyana, age-related changes in women of elegant age, especially those who have entered the menopause, appear on the face in the truest sense of the word. The ebb and flow is accompanied by redness, sweating, and sometimes even oiliness of the skin. Maybe for this time to give up cosmetics?
— In no case! It is makeup that allows you to hide age-related problems, which helps a woman feel attractive and confident. You should use those cosmetics that will help even out the tone of the face and model it. And for this you will need: foundation, corrector (to mask certain problem areas) and powder.
— Why is this necessary?
— Every face has its flaws, and with age they only get worse. The oval loses its sculpture: a second chin appears, the cheeks go down, nasolabial folds are added. Yes, and the eyes fall deeper, which in turn deepens their inner corners. The temporal zones also collapse, which gives the face a haggard look. First small, and then deep mimic wrinkles appear. In a word, the muscles of the face lose their elasticity and sag along with the turgor of the skin.
Facial modeling with the help of decorative cosmetics allows you to visually reduce age-related changes, and in some cases — hide them.
— How to achieve this?
— First of all, due to the play of light and shadow. As you know, a light color visually enlarges any area. But dark, on the contrary, reduces and deepens. You need to model the face, guided by this principle, "pulling out" deepened zones due to light tones and hiding others with the help of dark ones.
A light foundation, as close as possible in color to the skin, helps to lighten all age-related changes (nasolabial folds, inner corners of the eyes, sunken temples, etc.) and thus visually rejuvenate the face.
Rules for applying foundation:
• Properly selected foundation — this is the cream that is not visible on the face.
• Modeling the face and choosing the right make-up scheme is necessary in a straight position.
• When densely applied to the face, the color of the foundation may change. If it has an additional pink tone in its composition, then the whole tone of the face, respectively, can become pinker; if yellow, it can give the skin an unwanted yellowness. This rule also applies to concealer and powder.
Concealer (you can use a dark-colored foundation or powder instead) allows you to darken all the bulges that go beyond the oval of the face, and thus make it smaller. This applies to the chin, the angles of the lower jaw, the extended forehead area.
• Working with light and dark tones involves maintaining a balance: the more areas are lightened, the less dark areas can be and vice versa.
— Do I need to apply blush?
— Necessarily! Blush women of elegant age should be mastered to perfection. Over the years, the skin becomes somewhat lifeless, sometimes with a characteristic olive tint. Initially, foundation helps to revive it. But blush helps to refresh the skin tone.
How to apply blush correctly for women of elegant age:
• in the area of "frosty" cheeks;
• on the convex zone of the immovable eyelid.
• sometimes — on the forehead and chin.
How to apply make-up correctly so that it lasts long
— The trouble of all women — unstable makeup. Even the most expensive decorative means do not save from it.
— It's not about them, although, of course, a lot depends on high-quality cosmetics. But the durability of makeup directly depends on the applied base. And for this, the skin must first be prepared: it must be clean and dry. And the drier and cleaner it is, the more resistant the makeup will be.
In real life, it looks quite simple: wake up in the morning and immediately wash your face, apply cream on your face (in winter — nourishing, in summer — moisturizing). In 20 minutes (this time can be used for preparing breakfast), the cream will help the cells get to work and penetrate into the deeper layers of the dermis, and then you should apply makeup on properly prepared facial skin.
Makeup longevity requires the correct sequence of its application. On clean, dry skin, foundation is first applied, then — corrector, and, finally, as a fixative, powder.
If, in addition to the cream, other greasy or sticky products are used, for example, serum, then with further fixation with powder, a "plaster" effect appears on the face.
— Why?
— Applying makeup involves the same ratio of oily products in relation to dry ones. Only in this way can its durability be guaranteed. And to avoid layering, the minimum use of fatty products before applying powder will help.
— What if the sweat penetrates the entire overlay base and pours hail?
— In no case do not wipe with your hand, and do not even blot! This way you can remove all makeup.
• Blot your face with a tangential motion.
• Go to a cool room and wait for the sweat to evaporate
naturally before touching up your makeup.
Such measures are necessary for the simple reason that moisture forms between the skin and the foundation layer, and when the makeup is corrected, all applied layers are violated, and each touch can be detrimental to the makeup as a whole.
Advice: Limit your water use.
Make eyes: select soft lines and dark shadows
— Women always strive to emphasize their eyes in all possible cosmetic ways, but in adulthood — especially. It doesn't always work out well. What would you recommend?
— Conventionally, eye makeup techniques can be divided into three groups. This — the technique of applying from light to dark, very popular in Soviet times as a "banana", the "arrow" scheme; and smoky eyes. Let's try to figure out which of them can be recommended to women of mature age.
The choice of the winning scheme depends on the structure of the eyelid. Before choosing eye makeup, you should remember the anatomy of the eyelid, which consists of the upper and lower. The upper eyelid, in turn, is divided into mobile (from the ciliary contour to the dividing fold) and fixed (from the fold to the eyebrow).
In my author's techniques, I adhere to one important rule: the color to the relief and behind it must be the same. And this means that the selected tone, located on the moving eyelid, must be repeated on the fixed eyelid in the same saturation.
Technique "from light to dark" unjustifiably popular and in most cases unsuccessful, since the color in it is different up to the dividing fold of the eyelid and beyond it. The technique of applying such makeup will emphasize the asymmetry of the eyes, which is characteristic of the majority.
There is another feature that we mentioned at the very beginning: light tones stretch failed areas to the level of the general plane of the face, dark — hide the volume or large size of a zone. If, guided by this rule, you try to model the eyes, then you can achieve the same effect as with the face, only with the difference that the shadows of light colors will increase the area around the eyelids, but at the same time visually “reduce” the area. eyes, drooping eyelids are emphasized, "falling through" eyeball, etc.
• It is important to avoid pearlescent shadows. They are characterized by a special structure that emphasizes the relief of the skin and focuses on wrinkles, both large and small.
• Colored shadows will make the look vulgar.
Beautiful makeup has nothing to do with a beautiful face. Creating a beautiful face involves the maximum corrective effect, the correctness of the lines, the clarity of proportions, the absence of asymmetries and the use of natural tones. And these are, first of all, the tones that are as close as possible to the color of the skin (starting from pastel beige, light brown, dark brown and even black).
Colored shadows are used to create a beautiful make-up, to create a beautiful face — natural shades of predominantly brown.
Arrows. Only those who have clear eye shapes can use this technique. But, as a rule, age begins to manifest itself precisely in sagging eyelids, "covering" a movable eyelid or, conversely, tightly fitting it (deep-set eyes). In such cases, the "arrow" may break, or even disappear altogether.
In addition, over the years, the structure of the skin takes on a clearer pattern than in youth. Because of this, the drawn "arrow" may emphasize irregularities in the structure of the skin, but in no way model the eyes.
• You can apply an arrow along the ciliary edge only if it is further shaded with shadows.
Smoky eyes. Silent film actresses used only charcoal and powder to give their eyes a languid look. The star of black-and-white cinema, Vera Kholodnaya, looking from the screen with her thickly lined eyes, made all viewers look at them with adoration. Today, it is not at all necessary to use improvised means to achieve such an effect. Smoky eyes are multivariate and involve a different degree of darkening of both the upper eyelid (both mobile and fixed) and the lower one, and their combination.
How to apply smoky eyes to women of elegant age
• No need to darken the eyes below. So they can be "pulled" instead of being lifted.
• The dark color hides the overhang of the upper eyelid, so it is necessary to make smoky eyes with darkening of only the upper eyelid (mobile and fixed). Those who have a mobile eyelid high and open enough, they do not need to stretch the color higher, on a motionless eyelid. It will be enough to darken only the ciliary contour.
• It is good to use a dark color: the more intense it is, the more effective the modeling result will be.
Age is given away by thin lips: hide it with lipstick and pencil
— Should the lipstick color be chosen carefully too?
— No, here you can experiment with it and use any tones, from coral to red.
Another thing is that plump lips are a sign of youth and beauty. And over the years, they become thinner, sink, or even completely fail. That is why many women are so eager to visually enlarge them with the help of various means. Regular lipstick and lip pencil will help to cope with this task.
How to paint lips for women of elegant age
• Be sure to outline the lip contour with a pencil. This will avoid untidiness and further spreading of lipstick;
• First draw lips with a pencil, then powder them and only after that apply lipstick in two stages: first on the lips in a calm position of the mouth and then — on stretched lips.
• First, put the lipstick on the place where the lips meet and stretch it to one corner, and then — to another. Draw the bottom lip the same way. This technique will avoid excessive ink getting into the corners of the lips and spreading it along the folds.
The most important thing in lip makeup — it is when choosing a texture to avoid mother-of-pearl. It is he who will emphasize the ugly age relief and give out a "deception" lip augmentation. And, of course, you can not allow a clear contrast between lipstick and contour pencil. By the way, the presence of red pigment in the latter makes the lips "inflamed".
— If a bright lipstick is chosen, does this mean that the eyes should no longer be highlighted?
— For age makeup, this rule does not work. Everything is allowed here. You can immediately accentuate the eyes, and lips, and cheeks, and eyebrows. But, of course, remember the measure that defines elegance.
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