Ammonia and non-ammonia hair dyes continue to be discussed among consumers at training seminars for hairdressers and on social networks. On the one hand, many major hair manufacturers claim that ammonia dyes are harmful, and the concept of their use has long been outdated.
On the other hand, the cosmetics market leaders continue to offer ammonia-based hair product lines and even conduct training events for hairdressers on ammonia dyes. Which hair dye is more effective and safe for hair, estet-portal.com readers are told by Ben Mones, designer, art director / technologist and distributor of Jojohaircosmetic.
What is ammonia used in hair dye and what are its benefits
The main purpose of ammonia in hair dyes is to create an alkaline environment on the surface of the hair. In this case, the hair scales rise, the hair structure swells and becomes loose, the dyes penetrate deeply. In addition, ammonia, or it is also called ammonium hydroxide on packages, starts the decomposition reaction of hydrogen peroxide. The result of exposure to ammonia in the composition of hair dye is the destruction of its own coloring pigment, which is why the color is stable.
Benefits of ammonia hair dyes:
- gives a persistent, long-lasting desired effect,
- non-absorbed ammonia molecules are easily washed out or evaporate from the surface of the hair, without further destroying their structure,
- indispensable for bleaching hair, as only it can destroy the pigment,
- only ammonia can act on gray hair, allowing dye pigments to penetrate into the structure of depigmented hair, even with hard glassy gray hair.
Despite the toxicity of ammonia as a chemical, for the human body it is perceived as its own, organic product and is more acceptable (of course, in doses not exceeding the maximum allowable) than many of its chemically synthesized substitutes in ammonia-free hair dyes. In addition, if the reaction of our body to ammonia has long been well studied, then no one has yet conducted serious studies regarding its substitutes.
Which hair color will give the best expected effect
The disadvantages of ammonia hair dyes, of course, are their specific pungent and unpleasant odor. The fact is that ammonia molecules are very small, and therefore the substance is extremely volatile, instantly spreading around with a heavy smell. Unfortunately, in high concentrations (especially in a small cabin), ammonia vapor can cause irritation of the mucous membranes of the eyes, nose and even suffocation in sensitive people.
However, in a spacious, well-ventilated room, ammonia evaporates very quickly and is not a concern. However, if you are prone to allergies, then when choosing which hair dye you like best, ask the master to test it before applying.
Despite the fact that the package will say "ammonia-free paint", most often it still contains some amount of this substance.
So far, no absolute analogue of ammonia has been found that can equally effectively affect the durability of staining. Cosmetic companies are developing, looking for new components, but today it is not possible to completely replace ammonia cosmetics.
When choosing which hair dye you like best, you need to remember that ammonia-free dyes contain substances that, like ammonia, create an alkaline environment on the hair. But their molecules are far from being so small and do not volatilize quickly. On the one hand, such hair dyes smell good, but on the other hand – these molecules are much more difficult to wash out of the hair and can exert their damaging effect on the hair structure for much longer.
It should also be added that ammonia-free hair dyes do not give such a variety of shades that manufacturers of dyes with ammonia can offer – this is due to the ability of ammonia to destroy the pigment and give color fastness, which cannot be fully guaranteed by other substances.
So, when deciding which hair dye you like best, consider the advantages and disadvantages of ammonia in hair cosmetics and remember that no serious cosmetics manufacturer has managed to completely do without ammonia.
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