Защита кожи зимой: восстановление и укрепление липидного барьера кожи

Human skin performs a number of vital functions. Of course, first of all, it protects against the negative impact of the environment, loss of moisture, penetration of bacteria, toxic substances or various contaminants. At the same time, it is a huge sensory field, synthesizes a lot of biologically active compounds, plays a leading role in thermoregulation, tactile and pain sensitivity. In addition, she plays an important role in sexual life and human communication.

To preserve the beauty and health of the skin, it is very important to provide it with complete protection and nutrition. Elena Tananko, a cosmetologist, geneticist, head coach of the pHformula brand of Cosmetic Group, told estet-portal.com readers about how to do this.

How lipids help protect the skin

E.T.: The beauty of the skin is mesmerizing. We strive to get it, keep it, support it.
We are passionately trying to stop time, so we use all possible cosmetics to:

  • cleansing,

  • moisture, 

  • skin nutrition.

The scientific approach in this direction appeared in the 90s of the last century, when scientists and dermatologists unraveled the riddle of the epidermal barrier structure.

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For many years, the topmost, stratum corneum of the skin was called "dead" due to the fact that the cells that form it are filled with keratin and lack nuclei. 

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Basically – these are no longer cells, but horny scales, which are interconnected by a special lipid environment (they synthesized it during the regeneration process). 

Lipids make the stratum corneum waterproof and serve as a barrier to the free passage of any substances into and out of the body .

How is the stratum corneum of the epidermis

E.T.: To understand how the stratum corneum is arranged, let's remember the Napoleon cake, and imagine that lipids hold the scales together like cream cake layers.

Thickness the stratum corneum is 13-15 microns, and it is very thin, but it perfectly protects us from bacteria, toxins, and other environmental agents. It is the most important component of the epidermal barrier.

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The better this layer is organized, the more reliable the barrier and the better the protective function of the skin. The less negative effects experienced by the cells of the deep layers of the skin, the less inflammation, the better the processes of synthesis of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid. The better our skin looks and the longer it remains youthful.

Why our skin needs ceramides

E.T.: The protective properties of the epidermal barrier must work even with sudden changes in temperature, humidity, acidity, salt concentration, etc.

The functional activity of the skin barrier is directly related to the quantitative and qualitative composition of lipids, and ultimately the fatty acids included in the composition.
The main lipids of the stratum corneum – these are polar lipids or ceramides, cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate. Free fatty acids are also present.  

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A particularly important role is played by ceramides containing linoleic acid, or O-acylceramides. 

Studies have shown that in linoleic acid deficiency:

  • disorganization of lipid layers occurs;

  • skin permeability changes;

  • normal differentiation of keratinocytes is disturbed;

  • the stratum corneum thickens, peels off;

  • dryness, peeling, itching, redness appear;

  • water permeability increases;

  • The barrier function of the skin is increasing.

Many skin diseases are known, for which the violation of the barrier properties of the skin plays a leading role. How to prevent skin barrier dysfunction

Е.Т.:

It is obvious that in order to solve the problems of chronic barrier dysfunction, maximum protection of cells from dehydration and toxic effects is necessary. All measures that normalize the permeability of the skin, even temporary ones, are good here. Preparations must contain:

mixture of physiological lipids or their precursors (essential fatty acids: ceramides: cholesterol);


  • components that reduce moisture loss.
  •  
  • Therapeutic products should not contain substances that inhibit the vital activity of epidermal cells or destroy the lipid barrier.
When using cosmetics, there is always some kind of interaction with epidermal lipids. The more lipids the skin contains, the more fat-soluble substances pass through it.
 

Skin bioremodeling with Profhilo: procedure and results The skin of the face contains much more lipids than other parts of the body, so we are most effective when applying fat-containing compounds in this area.

 

The SOS product line will help protect and restore the skin Series

pharmaceuticals SOS

 from the Spanish professional brand

pHformula

is specially designed to eliminate problems and normalize the epidermal barrier. The  SOS line of products includes: oil-serum;

  • face creams;

  • eye and lip creams.
     
  • Preparations contain the key components of skin renewal and restoration of its protective function.
  • The official distributor of   SOS in Ukraine is
 

Cosmetic Group.  

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SOS rescue oil

– biphasic oil-serum that perfectly restores the protective function of the skin.

 

 

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Contains skin-identical ceramides.

 


  • Quickly repairs sensitive, irritated, dry skin.
     

  • Protects and moisturizes.
     

  • Reduces redness and inflammation.
     
  • The preparation contains a complex of vegetable oils, kelp extract and hexapeptide-8, therefore it leads to renewal and rejuvenates.
SOS rescue cream

– the drug has a therapeutic effect by creating a barrier film Glycofim.

 

Suitable for dry, dehydrated skin, eczema, as well as for protecting the skin in various extreme situations, such as when flying. 


  • Shows good results in people with problematic skin with dry seborrhea.
  • May be used for children aged two and over.

  • SOS repair cream
  • – provides protection and comfort to very dry, damaged skin thanks to shea butter and panthenol.
 

Ideal for skin regeneration after pHformula 3 treatments or after laser treatment.

Also, this remedy perfectly nourishes and restores the skin with daily use in the cold season.
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SOS eye rescue – multifunctional eye product that stimulates collagen synthesis and smoothes wrinkles.

 

Eliminates puffiness and dark circles.

 

  • Immediately brighten skin. 

  • Restores the lipid barrier.
     

  • Suitable for sensitive eyelids.
  •  

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SOS lip rescue

– a key tool for healing the red border of the lips.

 

Soothes, renews, heals cracks. 


  • Fills, restores lip color.
     

  • Can be used instead of lip gloss.
  •  

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My professional experience with pHformula confirms the excellent
efficacy of

line SOS products provided by

Cosmetic Group. Means are very popular with patients, because they perfectly solve skin problems. In winter,

SOS rescue

SOS repair cream and SOS lip rescue lip balm are especially popular. Watch useful videos on our YouTube

channel: