Most patients in cosmetic clinics dream of their skin looking healthy, well-groomed and as if glowing from within. At the same time, it is desirable that it does not have age spots or any other signs of poor health. If you take an interest in requests on the Internet regarding the correction of skin defects, then, from the point of view of estet-portal.com, the fight against hyperpigmentation and the desire to generally improve skin tone will take the lead. Cosmetologists agree that this problem is not only very relevant, but also belongs to the class of the most difficult to correct. UNIVERSKIN specialists propose to personalize the care and treatment of the patient's skin for her solution, using all the possibilities of the brand.
Why should we personalize the approach to the treatment of age spots
The fight against hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult tasks of aesthetic medicine, since the results of the correction do not always please the doctor and justify the patient's expectations. In addition, it is difficult to predict the long-term positive results obtained. The difficulties are explained by the fact that age spots have a different pathogenesis of development. These can be both hormonally determined spots that have arisen during pregnancy, and signs of age-related skin changes that appear due to oxidative stress and the accumulation of Amadori products.
The most popular methods for correcting age spots on the skin today remain:
- laser correction,
- chemical peels with different penetration depths,
- injectable products that inhibit melanogenesis.
The main problem in the fight against hyperpigmentation is the recurrence of the appearance of spots. The frequency and speed of their development often negates all the efforts of the specialist and the patient. The troubles are aggravated by the fact that the procedures for correcting age spots are often painful, especially when it comes to injection techniques. If peels are used, then after them a long period of rehabilitation is needed. And almost any procedure is cyclical, so the fight against pigmentation can take several months.
The situation can be improved by applying the principles of functional dermatology, when the treatment is based on the correction of body dysfunctions, and not the leveling of their external manifestations. These principles are fundamental to the brand UNIVERSKIN, which is represented by "Academy of Scientific Beauty".
The philosophy of UNIVERSKIN is that the focus of specialists is on the individual choice of patient skin care and treatment. The personalized approach is combined with the high efficiency of the ingredients used.
On the one hand, functional dermatology requires a longer treatment time. But on the other hand, this approach guarantees the expected result, if the dysfunction of the body is determined correctly, and the optimal therapy algorithm is chosen.
Algorithm for choosing an individual approach to the treatment of age spots
UNIVERSKIN experts have created a color matrix of active ingredients in cosmetics used to combat pigmentation. The matrix is structured into 8 colors corresponding to 8 main skin problems (Fig. 1) and includes 19 active ingredients.
Due to the structuring of the components, more than 1159 formulas and 57 different concentrations become available to the dermatocosmetologist, which expands his possibilities, allows him to successfully combine personification and improvisation in the choice of therapy.
Fig. 1
The right choice of formula in combination with classical correction methods makes it possible:
- reduce the likelihood of recurrence of hyperpigmentation,
- reduce the rehabilitation period,
- reduce the number of procedures required.
Thus, a correctly defined dysfunction of the body in combination with an individually selected therapeutic formula makes it possible to purposefully influence the pathogenetic links in the occurrence of age spots. In addition, personalized treatment allows you to solve additional problems of the patient – from increased dryness of the skin to manifestations of rosacea.
The procedure for determining an individual formula is simple and does not take much time, since part of the anamnesis is collected by filling out a special questionnaire by the patient, in the waiting room or on-line. The doctor can only draw conclusions on the already formed "points of dysfunction".
Mock Patient Management Protocol and Therapy Choice Rules
PATIENT, 32 years old, Fitzpatrick phototype IV (Fig. 2), presented with the following complaints:
- dark spots on the forehead, cheeks, nose, skin of the upper lip, chin;
- increased oiliness of the skin;
- dull skin tone;
- roughness.
The patient is concerned about the difficulty in choosing home care products. According to her, many remedies cause redness, itching. In winter, the skin becomes more sensitive, redness occurs more often.
THERAPY ADMINISTRATION PROTOCOL
STEP 1: "Tell us about your skin"
This stage is the patient filling out a questionnaire (Fig. 3), which allows you to determine the anamnesis vitae et anamnesis morbi, to find out the features of daily skin care at the time of treatment. In the presence of a complex aesthetic syndrome complex, a survey to identify a priority problem for the patient. In addition, the patient independently evaluates the condition of his skin in the following areas:
- oxidative stress,
- loss of skin turgor,
- severity of wrinkles,
- inflammatory manifestations,
- skin barrier function problems,
- keratinization,
- seboproducts,
- pigmentation,
- skin microbiota.
Filling out the questionnaire by the patient helped to identify the following skin dysfunctions available in the UNIVERSKIN color matrix:
oxidative stress (yellow),
hyperpigmentation (brown color),
inflammation (red color),
hyperkeratosis (grey),
overproduction of sebum (T-zone) (orange color),
violations of skin elasticity turgor (pink color).
Due to the presence of a three-point self-examination scale in the questionnaire, the doctor can assess the severity of each type of skin dysfunction (Fig. 4).
Fig. 1 Rice. 4.
From the diagram and the data of the objective study, the priority syndrome complex becomes obvious:
Hyperpigmentation – Inflammation - Oxidative stress.
Sebum hyperproduction and hyperkeratosis phenomena have local manifestations and can be corrected at the second stage of therapy.
Fig. 3
STEP 2: CREATE A CUSTOMIZED HOME THERAPY FORMULA
To create an individual formula, the UNIVERSKIN laboratory has developed a unique base serum SERUM MAGISTRAL NEXULTRA™ P. This serum is a water-in-oil emulsion. The technology for the manufacture of emulsions of this type involves the use of components with a low emulsification coefficient, which eliminates the "wash out" effect when applying serum to the surface of the skin. Additionally, MAGISTRAL NEXULTRA™ P is processed with ultrasound, which increases its fineness and allows the active ingredients that are added to this product to be qualitatively integrated into the structure of the serum.
The serum is not an inert substance, but has an anti-inflammatory and restructuring effect due to the presence of the following components in its composition:
- omega-3 acids,
- vitamin E of vegetable organic origin,
- hyaluronic acid,
- complex of biomimetic peptides.
So, into the serum SERUM MAGISTRAL NEXULTRA™ P included Collaren, Melitan, Timulen, peptide – inhibitor of MMP 1, 3, 9 types. For the patient, the following treatment tactics were chosen. Assigned 2 prescriptions for use in the morning and evening.
RP: Super Oxide Dismutase 2%
L-Acide Ascorbique 14%
SERUM MAGISTRAL NEXULTRA™ P 15ml
DS: Apply 6 drops in the morning after cleansing to the face and lower eyelids.
RP: Arbutine 6%
Niacineamide 4%
SERUM MAGISTRAL NEXULTRA™ P 15ml
DS: Apply 6 drops in the evening after cleansing on the face and lower eyelids.
I would like to pay special attention to the quality of active ingredients, which is confirmed by numerous studies.
The UNIVERSKIN laboratory offers dermatocosmetologists and plastic surgeons prescription components whose concentrations and chemical formulas have clinically proven efficacy and safety.
For example, the clinical depigmenting effect of Arbutin at a concentration of 6% from UNIVERSKIN is comparable to that of hydroquinone at a concentration of 3%. However, from Arbutin there is no toxic and irritating effect inherent in hydroquinone. Therefore, Arbutin at a concentration of 6% from UNIVERSKIN is approved for use during pregnancy and lactation. All active ingredients are available in sublimated (dry) form in sealed individual packaging.
Method of preparation of therapeutic serum (Fig. 5).
- Open the serum.
- Open the packages of active ingredients one by one.
- Sequentially screw the capsules with active ingredients onto the serum vial.
- Close the serum vial hermetically.
- Place the vial with the serum in the center of a special centrifuge, and mix the serum with the active ingredients for 20 seconds.
Mark the vial with the serum with the self-adhesive stickers available for each component, which indicate the name of the active ingredient and its final concentration in the serum.
Fig. 5
Universkin's active ingredients may have one function: for example, ferulic acid provides only an antioxidant effect. Other components are polyfunctional: for example, L-ascorbic acid provides 6 effects:
- restructuring of the extracellular matrix,
- depigmentation,
- antioxidant protection,
- anti-inflammatory effect,
- keratinization normalization,
- Providing barrier properties of the skin.
SOD (superoxide dismutase) has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. When these two components are combined in one formula (serum), the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects will be potentiated.
STEP 3: RECOMMENDATIONS
It is recommended to apply the prescribed substances according to the given formulas twice a day, in the morning and in the evening, 6 drops per face. The serum is easy to dose with the pipette applicator that comes with it.
Recipes that include antioxidants or components that restore the skin barrier (dexpanthenol, aloe vera) are best administered in the morning. Depigmenting, exfoliating components are prescribed by evening prescriptions.
Depending on skin type and seasonality, additionally after application serum, it is recommended to use UNIVERSKIN finishing emulsions.
Our patient was recommended to add Nexultra&trade Emulsion in the morning; UV SPF 50, evening Emulsion Nexultra™ 1 – a powerful anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, re-epithelializing agent.
STEP 4: EVALUATION OF THERAPY RESULTS
The rate at which clinically and aesthetically significant changes appear always depends on the type of dysfunction being treated. Thus, the patient will see a sebum-regulating effect, a decrease in the effects of oxidative stress, and an improvement in skin hydration in 1-2 weeks. The reduction in inflammation will be clinically significant in 3-6 weeks. When working with a change in turgor, skin elasticity, hyperpigmentation, the result of therapy is evaluated after 6-8 weeks from the start of therapy. It is advisable to take photographs in the diagnostic chamber under different types of lighting.
Therapy results of the described patient were measured at the time of presentation and on the 60th day from the start of treatment using the Dermacheck diagnostic camera. Diagnostics was carried out in normal, polarized and UV – light.
Subjectively, the patient notes a decrease in the severity of dark spots. According to the patient, the skin became less irritated, although in the first week of therapy, when applying serums, the patient felt a slight tingling sensation. The patient also notes that the skin "came to life", became smoother to the touch, the number of fine wrinkles decreased.
Objectively, there is a significant decrease in the severity of latent and overt hyperpigmentation. Improved complexion, increased turgor and skin elasticity. Phenomena of an inflammatory nature were not revealed.
Thus, the UNIVERSKIN home therapy and care system allows you to personalize the treatment of even the most difficult patients to the maximum, while maintaining the possibility of improvisation. Formulas of this brand make it possible to provide highly effective care with a high safety profile for any condition: hyperpigmentation, signs of photo- and chrono-aging, rehabilitation after invasive procedures, treatment of acne, rosacea and other acute and chronic dermatoses.
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