Эксфолиация при позднем акне: особенности применения кислот

Deep cleansing of the skin is a mandatory part of the comprehensive acne treatment program, regardless of the age of the patient who has addressed this problem to a beautician.

Its therapeutic task is usually to remove in a controlled manner several epidermal layers along with defects – pigmentation, scarring, and to the extent possible to mitigate inflammation.

In late acne the use of acids for chemical peels has some peculiarities, which, as estet-portal.com notes, are due to the age characteristics of the skin.

The use of acids for age-related acne should be gentle

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Late rashes are considered to be rashes that appear in people over 25 years old. Usually in their youth they did not encounter this problem or had minimal manifestations of acne. Therefore, the unexpected manifestation of inflammatory elements on the face, often deep and painful, frightens and significantly reduces the quality of life.

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About one in five women will experience acne either a few days before their period or approaching menopause. Inflammatory elements can erupt temporarily or exist permanently, appear as papules or even acne conglobata.

The peculiarity of late acne is that it is often accompanied by concomitant internal diseases.

This fact must be taken into account when choosing therapy, as well as the fact that with age, involutive changes affect all layers of the skin, dystrophic changes in its structures gradually appear. Therefore, acids in exfoliating formulations should not harm the skin condition, not exacerbate the signs of aging, and at the same time reduce the unpleasant manifestations of acne.

Optimum use of acids for different types of acne

When choosing an exfoliating composition for acne tarda, one must not forget that each of the acids at different stages and with different manifestations of acne has its own special effect.

Peeling with glycolic acid. Acid is good as a component in the combination – e.g. with salicylic acid.

Her faults:

•    may aggravate the course in the presence of pustules and papules;

•    does not help with post-inflammatory pigmentation.

Bright, young, fresh: features of peeling with glycolic acid

The dignity of acid – superficial exfoliation with it goes well with mesotherapy, a procedure known as "mesopil" is obtained. Thanks to it, you can quickly get a therapeutic effect.

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Mandelic Acid Peeling. The chemical structure of its molecule is a bit similar to that of erythromycin. And her action is similar – pronounced antibacterial. The acid has large molecules, so it acts on the skin gently and does not cause severe irritation.

Mandelic acid peeling comes in two forms, which are chosen depending on the problem being solved:

•    gel – with a large number of comedones and enlarged pores;

•    hydroalcoholic - with multiple inflammatory elements.

In the presence of acne with subacute inflammatory elements, this peeling – the best option.

Pyruvic acid peeling. Feature of acid – quite pronounced anti-aging effect on the skin, so it is often used for late rashes. Its molecules penetrate deep into the skin and have a strong antimicrobial effect.

Salicylic Acid Peeling. Acid is widely recognized as one of the most effective keratolytic agents. Lack of acid – can increase the photosensitivity of the skin. Dignity – the substance is able to enhance the activity of other acids in combined peels.

Salicylic peeling for gentle and effective skin cleansing

Retinoic Acid Peeling. Acid needs to be used very carefully, as it has significant disadvantages:

•    greatly increases photosensitivity;

•    not applicable during and immediately after treatment with retinoids, because it will cause thinning of the dermis;

•    can exacerbate the course of acne.

The advantage of peeling with this acid – strong anti-aging action.

Peeling with trichloroacetic acid. For late types of rashes, this acid is mainly recommended locally and if there is no active inflammatory process.

Jessner peel. This is a combination of resorcinol and acids (lactic and salicylic). Usually works well in active inflammation when other acids are not recommended.

Jessner Peeling: an absolute must-have for a beautician

The choice of preferred skin correction products for late forms of rashes

How do

Shape selection

Preferred acids

Papules + pustules

Hydroalcoholic

Pyrugrape, lactobionic, almond

Comedones + non-inflammatory acne

Gel

Salicylic, glycolic, almond

Post-acne + violation of the skin relief

Medium or superficial high concentration

Trichloroacetic, pyruvic

 
For all forms of late acne, a good therapeutic effect can be achieved with Jessner peeling. Any exfoliating treatments must be combined with prescribed medications and topical treatments for rashes to get a good result.

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