Botox has become a household name, just as we call a photocopier a photocopier. Everyone or almost everyone knows about this method of dealing with wrinkles. This is the most popular procedure offered today by aesthetic medicine clinics: tens of millions of injections annually.
Why interest in alternative "non-injection exposure" methods is becoming more active
It is difficult to single out a single reason, there are many of them - and they are all different. In addition, interest in procedures and methods of non-invasive correction arises not only among patients, but also among doctors. What is behind this?
Physicians, including those with significant experience in working with botulinum toxin, do not deny that some patients have temporary or permanent contraindications to botulinum toxin injections: pregnancy, lactation, recent history of antibiotic use, the presence of a number of chronic diseases, being too young age, visual impairment, blood clotting disorders, altered facial muscle tone, facial asymmetry, hernia of the upper and lower eyelids - and this is not a complete list.
Tiina Orasmäe-Meder
cosmetologist
developer of Meder Beauty Science
When does a doctor suggest an alternative wrinkle correction method?
TO. The most common reason why patients choose an alternative method of wrinkle correction is not the presence of objective contraindications, but rather the fear of injections. Such fear is often based on information received from the press or from acquaintances. Some patients consider alternative methods of wrinkle correction more "natural" and "natural", and therefore prefer them. Finally, there are patients who simply want to avoid pain and possible discomfort.
In addition, there are patients who have already had an unsuccessful experience with botulinum toxin correction: someone was not satisfied with the result, someone was not satisfied with the duration of the effect, and someone had complications, after which such a patient is looking for new opportunities to get rid of annoying forehead wrinkles. In such cases, the doctor has little choice: to refuse the procedure or to offer an alternative.
Is there a non-invasive method of wrinkle correction today, the effect of which would be completely identical to the effect of botulinum toxin injected? Objectively speaking, no. The action of botulinum toxin consists in complete chemodenervation of the facial muscles, which leads to smoothing of wrinkles as a result of paresis of the muscle that "squeezed" the skin in the area of constant muscle tension.
Non-invasive correction with peptides
Non-invasive correction with peptides - does not create the effect of complete denervation, but if successful, leads to a persistent violation of the passage of the neuromuscular impulse, as a result of which the zones of constant muscle tension are better controlled and the focus of tension in the surface part of the mimic muscle decreases or completely disappears in them , and consequently, the wrinkle is reduced or disappears.
Compared to botulinum toxin, peptide correction requires more time. Botulinum toxin has an immediate toxic effect, neuromodulatory peptides show their effectiveness gradually, with regular repeated application, and only after a few weeks of applications can we talk about stable results.
One of the main questions that doctors and patients ask is: how can a cosmetic product containing peptides penetrate the muscle without first damaging the skin? Actually, it's not that difficult. Peptides are small in size, allowing relatively easy penetration into the deeper layers of the skin.
If the necessary conditions are met (preliminary preparation of the skin: smoothing, reducing the thickness of the stratum corneum, restoring active microcirculation in the dermis), then the peptides that make up the cosmetic product have every chance of reaching the target layer - the terminal muscle fibers woven into the skin in attachment point. An important point: peptides should be applied directly to the areas where the muscles are woven into the skin. The lines of skin contraction, that is, the wrinkles themselves, can serve as a guide.
Having appeared in the early 2000s, it quickly gained popularity. Today it can be found in the composition of many cosmetic products aimed at combating mimic wrinkles. The six amino acids of argireline replicate a portion of the SNAP25 protein required to bind the axon's synaptic vesicle to the presynaptic membrane. In the axon, argireline competes with the SNAP25 protein and integrates instead into the SNARE transient protein complex.
This complex is formed from several membrane proteins just prior to vesicle binding to the membrane and is essential for successful exocytosis. The defective complex cannot provide the necessary contact of the vesicle with the membrane; as a result, the mediator is not released into the synaptic cleft. This means that the muscle does not receive a contraction signal and continues to be in a relaxed state.
Followed by other peptides that also prevent neuromuscular transmission, but in a different way. Pentapeptide Leuphasyl (INCI: Penta-peptide-18) imitates the action of enkephalin: it reduces excitation in the neuron by inhibiting the flow of calcium ions through the membrane, and reduces the Ca2+-dependent release of the mediator. At the level of the postsynaptic membrane, several peptides "work" at once: Vialox (INCI: Pentapeptide-3), Syn-ake (INCI: Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate), Inyline (INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-25). All of them block the acetylcholine receptor AChR, which, when bound to a mediator (acetylcholine), opens. Through this "window" sodium ions begin to flow into the muscle cell, which are necessary to polarize the membrane and start the contraction process.
Despite the fact that these peptides have different ways of blocking the acetylcholine receptor, the result is the same: closed receptor - no sodium flow - no polarization - no muscle contraction.
Non-invasive facial wrinkle correction procedure usually lasts 40-45 minutes. Before applying the complex of neuromodulating peptides, a specific preparation of the skin is carried out, then the cosmetologist applies the peptide complex along the lines of wrinkles.
For this, applicators can be used, with which the drug is "rubbed" into the wrinkle line - to enhance penetration due to slight trauma to the upper layers of the skin. After applying the emulsion preparation, occlusion is used with non-woven materials impregnated with a solution also containing peptides. To achieve a long-term maximum effect (the result of correction can last up to a year), it is recommended to carry out several procedures (four to five within a month). Peptides are cumulative, so the intensity of the effect can be completely controlled - and if it is necessary to partially preserve facial expressions, a smaller number of procedures can be performed. There are also products designed for self-use at home.
Most often they are inferior in effectiveness to professional preparations, however, with regular use, they can enhance the result of professional correction (or give a similar effect with longer use). In addition, with the help of such preparations, it is possible to maintain and prolong the effect of not only non-invasive, but also injectable (botulinum toxin) correction.
When comparing non-invasive and injectable correction of mimic wrinkles, it becomes clear that each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. An obvious advantage of injection correction for many patients is the speed of achieving the effect and the complete absence of facial expressions after the injection. However, for patients who want to preserve natural facial expressions and emotionality, this is a disadvantage.
The need to treat all areas of the face and neck during non-invasive correction is a significant advantage, since it allows you to improve the skin during therapy, increase tone, even out the color and texture of the skin of the face, which creates the effect of general rejuvenation and grooming. Non-invasive therapy and injection correction can be combined: in particular, non-invasive therapy can be used to eliminate wrinkles in "high-risk areas", such as in the eye area. In addition, the combined use of non-invasive therapy "on the tail" of the injection result (16-18 weeks after the injection) allows you to increase the duration of the effect of botulinum toxin and avoid too frequent repetition of injections.
Many patients would like to see doctors more actively offer non-invasive wrinkle correction procedures, and are ready for combined and combined methods of correction. In addition, a non-invasive alternative allows non-medical cosmetologists to offer clients the correction of facial wrinkles, since the use of non-invasive methods has no professional restrictions, unlike working with botulinum toxin preparations.
In general, non-invasive correction of mimic wrinkles has found its place in cosmetology: this is a positive opportunity for both doctors and patients. For the former, it allows you to expand the range of services and approach patients more individually, for the latter, it gives you a choice between different methods of correction, and in case of contraindications to injection correction, it becomes the only chance to really get rid of mimic wrinkles.
According to allseason.ru
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