Straighten curly hair, and straight – curl. On the Internet you can find a lot of "jokes" regarding this age-old female problem. Every morning, the vast majority of the fair sex devote a lot of time to their styling. Some of them, in order to save time, decide to take a more responsible step – contacting a professional for help. Changing the shape of hair for a long time – this is a rather complicated procedure, the implementation of which can only be entrusted to a competent person. What determines the shape of the hair and how you can change it – read on estet-portal.com.

Features of cosmetic procedures for changing the shape of hair

It is not surprising that cosmetologists are currently dealing with issues of changing the shape of hair. Improper conduct of such a procedure may not only not affect the structure of the hair, but also harm it, therefore only a specialist who has the skills to work with different types of hair can change their shape.

When it comes to hair shape, there are often two wishes: straightening curly hair or curling straight hair.

There are methods that help to change the shape of the hair for a sufficiently long time, while not adversely affecting their structure and healthy appearance.

Hair shape:

  • what determines the shape of each person's hair;
  • hair reshaping: straightening curly;
  • hair reshaping: straight curling.

What determines the shape of each person's hair

The shape of the hair depends mainly on the structure of the cortical layer and is determined by several important factors. The cortex consists of elongated keratinized cells that are oriented along the axis of the hair. Keratin, together with a matrix protein that is rich in sulfur, forms microfibrils, which are assembled into macrofibrils. There are two main types of cells in the cortex:

  • paracortical cells – consist of densely packed macrofibrils;
  • orthocortical cells – are composed of less densely packed macrofibrils.

Depending on which cells predominate in the structure of a person's hair, he will have straight or curly hair. Paracortical cells predominate in the structure of straight hair, and orthocortical – for curly hair.

Hair Reshaping: Curly Straightening

The straightening process for curly hair is the destruction of disulfide bonds.

Proteins of the cortical layer in large quantities have the sulfur-containing amino acid cysteine. During keratinization, disulfide crosslinks are formed between cysteine ​​residues in the hair follicle. These covalent bonds stabilize the shape of the hair and affect the mechanical properties of the hairs. Hydrogen bonds, which are temporary, give additional stabilization to the hair. In order to straighten the hair, it is necessary to break these SS bonds, shape the hair and then stabilize it with new disulfide crosslinks.

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Hair Reshaping: Curling Straight

The same principle is used for perm hair – an effective way to change the straight hair shape to curly. Today, there are two main types of perms:

  • alkaline perm: done with ammonium thioglycolate or sodium thioglycolate. In such a solution, the cuticle quickly swells and allows the penetration of active substances into the depths of the hair. This "cold" heat-free curling is fast and guarantees a long-lasting effect and strong curls;
  • acid perm – it's "hot" a type of permed hair that requires exothermic heating. To change the shape of the hair, glyceryl monothioglycolate is used, which makes it possible to create soft curls. With acid perm, the result is less than with alkaline, but the hair is also damaged to a much lesser extent.  

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