Oxygen cosmetics are very popular today. The word “oxygen” are taken out as a key word in the names of individual drugs and entire programs, increasing their marketing value. The further logical chain is based on the indisputable truth that without oxygen there is no life, it is necessary not only for the body as a whole, but also for each individual cell. No one will argue with the fact that with age, cellular activity decreases, their oxygen consumption decreases, and the skin is no exception. Therefore, the idea of ​​invigorating cells with the help of oxygen-containing cosmetics looks tempting, and besides, it is consistent with the fashion trend of natural and environmentally friendly skin care. But is everything so simple with the delivery of oxygen to cells? Let's try to figure it out.

Skin as a dynamic barrier between gaseous and aqueous media

Despite the fact that our skin is not a respiratory organ, when it comes into contact with air, it inevitably interacts with oxygen and other atmospheric gases. Scientists have long wondered how this interaction occurs. In the course of numerous experiments, it was found that the skin – dynamic barrier through which gases diffuse in both directions. Moreover, the diffuse flow of oxygen from the skin capillaries to the skin surface is highly dependent on microcirculation and temperature. So, for example, applying a vasodilator cream to the skin during the experiment led to an increase in the content of molecular oxygen in it.

Oxygen distribution in the skin: new facts

The skin receives oxygen from two sources – internal (blood) and external (atmosphere). In order to assess the contribution of each of these sources and its biological role, it is necessary to know the distribution of oxygen over the layers of the skin. With the exception of the stratum corneum, formed by dead cells, all other layers of the skin contain living cells that consume oxygen. The epidermis, unlike the dermal layer, does not have blood capillaries, but is in contact with air. Based on the fact that everything in nature has its own meaning, it can be assumed that oxygen captured from the air is somehow included in skin metabolism.
A joint group of researchers from the Max Planck Institute and the Ruhr University (Germany) conducted a series of experiments , the results of which were published in J/Physiol. In 2002. Here are the main conclusions, which, however, may seem strange to many.

1. Under normal conditions, the upper layers of the skin are fully supplied with oxygen from the air. The contribution of oxygen supply through the blood is expressed only in the reticular layer. When the oxygen tension in the tissues is below 3 Torr, mitochondrial activity is inhibited and the cells die, but the experimental data clearly state that the oxygen tension in the skin is many times higher than this critical value, and therefore we can safely say that the skin does not experience a lack of oxygen.

2. No differences were found between the uptake of oxygen by the skin of young and old people – both under normal conditions and during ischemia. It is interesting that, despite age-related structural changes, as a result of which the permeability of the skin for many compounds increases, its ability to capture oxygen from the air does not change. Oxygen uptake by the skin depends on the partial pressure on the skin surface and at normobaric pressure is on average 0.5 ml O2/m2/min. With local ischemia (as a result of a 5-minute suprasystolic occlusion of blood vessels supplying this area of ​​the skin with blood), an increase in skin oxygen uptake by an average of 9% is observed. In other words, if you disrupt the blood supply to the skin and “block” access of oxygen from an internal source, then the uptake of oxygen from the outside will increase,

3. The contribution of oxygen intake through the skin to the body is insignificant and under normal conditions is no more than 0.4% of the oxygen intake through the lungs.

4. Atmospheric oxygen penetrates the skin to a depth of 266-375 microns. In other words, atmospheric oxygen reaches the level of the reticular layer of the dermis.

Atmospheric oxygen and skin regeneration

Corneous layer – main barrier to atmospheric oxygen. If the stratum corneum is damaged (for example, as a result of peeling or dermabrasion), then the diffusion of oxygen increases and the depth of its penetration increases. In this case, an increase in the flow of oxygen through the living layers of the skin can be considered as one of the signals that stimulate metabolic activity in the cells.

At the same time, with severe skin damage, the reverse picture is observed – open access of atmospheric oxygen through the wound surface to basal keratinocytes can inhibit reepithelialization. With extensive skin damage, basal keratinocytes find themselves in conditions in which the oxygen content becomes higher than the usual physiological value, and prolonged exposure of keratinocytes to these conditions can adversely affect their vital activity (in particular, inhibit their migration). Comparing the effect of various wound dressings on the migration of keratinocytes from the edges of the wound to the center, it was found that occlusive dressings are more effective in this regard, under which the oxygen tension after a while drops and becomes below atmospheric.

As for undamaged skin, there is currently no reliable evidence that oversaturation of it with oxygen leads to noticeable structural changes.

A new look at oxygen cosmetics

The above data on the distribution of oxygen in the skin make us take a fresh look at the idea of ​​oxygen cosmetics. Contrary to popular belief, our skin, it turns out, does not lack oxygen either in youth or in old age. Oxygen tension in the skin is at least 30 times higher than the critical one for cell activity (3 Torr). It turns out that artificially “upload” additional oxygen to aging skin does not make sense – there is already more than enough of it, and the cells are still not able to absorb more than they need.

Another thing is that with age, the metabolic activity of cells decreases, which means that oxygen consumption decreases. In light of this, it seems more rational to stimulate the metabolic activity of cells, which will entail an increase in energy consumption and oxygen consumption.

Another interesting conclusion: insufficient blood supply to the skin practically does not affect the content of molecular oxygen in it, since it penetrates the skin from the air (only the deep layers of the dermis receive oxygen from the blood). At the same time, with a deterioration in blood circulation, oxygen consumption generally decreases, since cells no longer receive sufficient nutrients, in particular glucose, which is necessary for the activity of mitochondria. Perhaps it is for this reason that methods aimed at improving skin microcirculation (physical factors or substances that affect the vascular network) increase oxygen consumption by skin cells – after all, in this case, the delivery of energy substrates to cells is improved.

Reactive oxygen species and their effects on the skin

The skin has a powerful defense against oxidative stress, which can be triggered by both external and internal causes. In the presence of appropriate catalysts such as iron ions and heavy metals, atmospheric oxygen can initiate oxidative reactions in the skin. In order to prevent the possibility of such a development of events, the composition of cosmetics includes substances that form complexes with metal ions and thereby neutralize their catalytic effect.

The most efficient internal generator of reactive oxygen species (ROS) are mitochondria, which produce them in the course of respiratory chain reactions, and the higher the load on mitochondria, the greater the release of ROS. Therefore, cosmetic formulations designed to stimulate cell metabolic activity should include antioxidants to help the skin cope with increased ROS production from increased mitochondrial function (skin-related vitamins E and C are especially useful).

How “breathes” skin and why it matters

The expression “the skin breathes” in the light of new data acquires quite a specific meaning. Since, as it turned out, the only source of oxygen (at least for the epidermis) is air, when choosing a base for a cosmetic formulation, special attention should be paid to its gas impermeability. In this regard, preparations based on silicone (organosilicon) oils and propylene glycols are the most effective. Traditional dermatological foundations – petroleum jelly, lanolin and mineral oil – have occlusive properties and less oxygen permeable.

At the same time, there are situations when occlusive properties are just in demand: for example, when the skin barrier is damaged, transepidermal water loss increases sharply, which leads to its local deficiency. In conditions of lack of moisture, skin cells develop worse, and its regenerative potential decreases. In this case, Vaseline coating will be an emergency help, which will prevent water loss and keep it in the skin. When applying petroleum jelly to a limited area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe skin, one should not be afraid that the access of oxygen in this place will be somewhat difficult. Oxygen entering the skin from neighboring areas will be quite enough to compensate for its reduced uptake where petroleum jelly is applied. Another thing is when a large surface is covered with a gas-tight layer for a long time,

In this case, airtight clothing is more to be feared than cosmetics. Firstly, cosmetics, even the most occlusive, still let oxygen through. Secondly, persistent disturbances in the functioning of skin cells due to hyperhydration and oxygen deficiency can only occur if the gas-tight coating has been on the skin for a long time.

Oxygen therapy is used in specialized medical institutions in all its diversity. With its help, there are processes of splitting and processing of proteins, fats and carbohydrates inside the cell. OXYjet is a high-tech device for non-injection mesotherapy of the face and body: