Skin and retinol: how to use retinoids correctly so as not to harm

Retinol is by far one of the most effective ingredients in many cosmetic products that are used for skin care. Retinol – is the "scientific name" well-known vitamin A. In the human body, retinol is formed in the intestines from beta-carotene, after which it enters the liver and is stored there in the form of esters.

In cosmetology, retinol preparations are widely used to treat various forms of acne, as well as an anti-age drug. Estet-portal.com  explains how to properly prescribe products containing retinol so as not to harm the patient's skin and get the best results.

Features of the use of drugs with retinol in cosmetology

The use of drugs with retinol in cosmetology is due to some properties of this vitamin.

Retinol is a fat-soluble component, and due to its chemical structure, it penetrates well into the layers of the skin when applied externally.

All retinol derivatives, which are called retinoids, are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic. Their action on skin receptors is somewhat different, which should be considered when choosing a drug with retinol for the treatment of skin diseases.  Retinoid preparations are especially effective in relation to pathologies such as acne or acne.

Retinol:

• how retinol preparations affect human skin;
• retinol derivatives – natural and synthetic retinoids;
• how to use products containing retinol.

How retinol preparations affect human skin

Retinol is widely used as an ingredient in skin care products due to its amazing properties. It is vitamin A that is a very effective "cellular communicator". Retinol stimulates all skin cells, including damaged ones, to their active division and productive work. Retinol accelerates the process of cell renewal, helping to exfoliate the dead flakes of the stratum corneum of the skin. But, at the same time, retinol is not an exfoliant, that is, it does not work as a peeling. Acting in the deep layers of the skin, retinol thins the stratum corneum, while the dermis, due to its effect, thickens.

Retinol derivatives – natural and synthetic retinoids

Retinol derivatives are called retinoids, and their family includes more than two and a half thousand different substances. Retinoids can be of two types:

• natural retinoids are made from retinol in the human body. These include retinol palmitate and acetate, retinaldehyde, tretinoin and others. Natural retinoids are easily destroyed by sunlight, and can also become toxic when exposed to sunlight, so it is recommended to use them only at night;
• synthetic retinoids are produced artificially in laboratories. These include adapalene, isotretinoin and others. Synthetic retinoids are less sensitive to ultraviolet rays, but in the presence of dry skin, increased sensitivity and other side effects, exposure to sunlight in combination with retinoids can cause discomfort.

How to properly use products containing retinol

Retinol can only act on the skin in the form of tretinoin, since skin receptors react exclusively to it. All other forms of retinol can be considered conditionally "inactive".

Natural retinoids take a long way to be converted to tretinoin, while synthetic retinoids are converted immediately.

The more steps a retinol derivative needs to go through to be converted to tretinoin, the smoother it will work. Thus, "soft" natural retinoids are found predominantly in skin care products, while synthetic – in more serious drugs. But it is important to take into account the fact that synthetic retinoids, acting faster, stronger and more actively, may have certain side effects, which should be warned in advance by the patient.