Smoker's skin: what a cosmetologist needs to know about the features of caring for it

Signs that the patient smokes are clearly visible to the cosmetologist already at the first appointment. The sharp outline of the cheekbones, hollow cheeks, deep nasolabial folds, multiple wrinkles around the lips – All these signs unmistakably give out the presence of a significant experience of smoking. Tobacco smoke has a strong negative effect not only on organs and systems, but also on the skin. It requires a special approach to correction, a program to restore moisture, and gentle renewal. How to choose the right care for the skin of a smoker, read on estet-portal.com.

How the habit of cigarettes affects the skin of a smoker

The concept of the so-called cigarette skin appeared in the 60s of the last century. The researchers included in this symptom complex pale gray skin color, pronounced wrinkles, the appearance of multiple comedones due to deposition of tar from cigarette smoke on the skin.  The toxic cumulative effect of smoking on the skin was proven by them, and it did not depend on the age of the smoker, nor on gender, nor on additional environmental factors. The depth of wrinkles correlated only with the length of smoking and the number of cigarettes smoked per day.

An experienced cosmetologist at the reception can immediately see whether a person smokes or not. The skin of a smoker has quite distinct characteristic features:

• wrinkles in the perioral zone;
• weak expression of subcutaneous fat, which makes the face look tired;
• thin sensitive skin;
• dyschromic areas around the mouth;
• couperose nets;
• pasty face.

Dryness and sensitivity of the skin of a smoker is associated with frequent exhalation of hot smoke with toxic impurities. Nicotine is absorbed into the blood and worsens vascular tone, negatively affects cellular elements.

Under the influence of nicotine, the enzymes collagenase and metalloproteinase are activated. As a result, the skin of a smoker slows down the synthesis of collagen, and therefore rehabilitation after traumatic procedures slows down significantly

Skin atrophy and wrinkling can also be explained by the relative hypoestrogenism caused by smoking. Each cigarette smoked causes peripheral angiospasm in the skin, which can last for more than an hour. It affects the compaction of elastin fibers. All these processes require painstaking work on the rehabilitation of the smoker's skin from the beautician.

How can a cosmetologist help in restoring the skin of a smoker

Of course, in the process of taking an anamnesis, the patient should be reasonably explained why cigarettes are bad for skin health and the effectiveness of many procedures, so it would be very desirable to give up this habit. The program of measures to restore well-groomed beautiful skin will include the following procedures:

• skin detoxification;
• restoration of microcirculation;
• moisture increase;
• gentle stimulation of skin renewal and restoration of its self-regulation processes.

To detoxify and restore microcirculation, you will need lymphatic drainage massages, mesotherapy with the introduction of angioprotective and antioxidant drugs. Peptides and flavonoids will help strengthen the vascular system. They are not only unable to affect the walls of capillaries, but also improve circulation in them, help eliminate swelling and rosacea, and generally improve complexion. Peptides and flavonoids can be administered in the form of serums using mesoscooters, microcurrents, phonophoresis.

In increasing skin hydration, biorevitalization, mesotherapy with hyaluronic acid preparations become the procedures of choice. At the same time, home care should be recommended with products that promote the restoration of the stratum corneum and prevent transepidermal water loss

Such products must contain aloe and algae extracts, ceramides and peptides, phospholipid emulsions.

Acid peels will help to stimulate skin renewal, which will activate cell division and skin renewal. A good stimulating effect gives the use of retinoids. They force fibroblasts to intensively synthesize collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid. Mesotherapy is recommended to be carried out with the inclusion of vitamins, salts of nucleic acids, organic silicon preparations.

The combination of professional beauty salon procedures and competent home care allows you to normalize the condition of the smoker's skin in a fairly short time, restore a healthy color to the face and prolong skin youth for a long time.

See also: Smoking accelerates skin aging and worsens the results of cosmetic procedures