"When I was working on a self-portrait, I did not depict a single pimple, because that's how it should be done. Pimples — this is a temporary phenomenon, they have nothing to do with how you really look. — wrote the American artist, producer, designer, writer, collector, magazine publisher and film director Andy Warhol (1928 & ndash; 1987).
"Acne — a temporary phenomenon, in fact I look different…» — many people think so, and for many months, years they mask "defects" kilograms of tonal funds. Others struggle with acne in a closed way, experiencing depression, lack of understanding and problems in their personal lives. And only a very small part turns to specialists for qualified help.
In the article estet-portal.com you can learn in detail the secrets of success in working with patients suffering from acne, from dermatologist-cosmetologist "Ellases clinic" (Ellases clinic) Lyudmila Grushko.
How relevant is the problem of acne in your practice
L.G.: The problem of acne is becoming more urgent and difficult to treat every year, requires the right tactics from aesthetic medicine specialists and timely advice from colleagues dermatologists, gynecologists, endocrinologists, gastroenterologists, and the unity of scientific knowledge , and optimal medical care.
Acne — this is a single problem that unites specialists, in which each link is incredibly valuable.
Specialists follow the protocols and scientific recommendations for the treatment of this pathology, and yet everyone forms their own method based on personal experience.
Acne affects almost all people, most common between the ages of 13 and 23, and in 20% of cases as a moderate to severe form of the disease.
Acne is perceived as a teenage disease, but often persists into later life.
Which approaches do you see as effective in your personal experience?
L.G.: For the period from March 2018 to December 2018, I consulted and treated 75 people, among whom 30% had mild acne, 50% — average and 20% — heavy.
The patients were consulted by related specialists such as gynecologists, gastroenterologists. In almost 99%, diseases of the gastrointestinal tract and female genital organs were detected / confirmed. Treatment has been given. The nutrition has been corrected, the water regime is recommended at the rate of 30 ml of pure water per kg of body weight.
In standard dermatological acne treatment regimens, combinations of topical products have taken a special place in home care:
• 2.5% and 5% benzoyl peroxide cream or gel;
• 0.05% and 0.1% tretinoin cream (trans-form of retinoic acid, which is similar in action to isotretinoin).
Benzoyl peroxide has an antibacterial, keratolytic effect, is active against Propionibacterium acnes. Reduces the content of lipids and fatty acids, has a moderate desquamative effect, reducing the appearance of comedones and acne. Effective against papules and pustules.
Tretinoin has anti-seborrheic, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic, immunostimulatory effects. Effective against closed comedones.
For 3 months, the preparations were used daily, alternating, applied in a thin layer at night on the affected skin areas, after systematic manual removal of elements, in combination with chemical peels.
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Which peels do you prefer
L.G.: Among the chemical peels in the therapy regimen, 2 types of peels were used as care:
• jessner peel
Jessner Peeling — it is a three-component system, which includes resorcinol, lactic and salicylic acid.
Lactic Acid 14% — alpha hydroxy acid, has an exfoliating and whitening effect on the skin. Stimulates the production of collagen — a special protein responsible for the elasticity and firmness of the skin. Lactic acid is much softer and more delicate than other fruit acids, so its use is justified for sensitive skin prone to hyperreactivity. Lactic acid is able to bind, retain and evenly redistribute moisture, directing it into the deeper layers of the skin, and allows you to effectively maintain the moisture balance of the epidermis.
Dermatologist-cosmetologist "Ellases clinic" (Ellases clinic) Lyudmila Grushko is also a trainer of the company "Academy of Scientific Beauty".
• EASY TCA PAIN CONTROL
EASY TCA PAIN CONTROL — this is a unique hybrid peeling, which contains TCA and phenol, penetrates to the basal layer, to the Grenz zone. Preference is given to him because of the complex effect on the skin and the excellent restoration of the relief (chemical resurfacing of scars).
Main components and effects of peeling:TCA – trichloroacetic acid, perfectly cleanses the surface layer of the epidermis, which helps the skin become smooth and clean, and also:
1. Has a keratolytic effect: causes coagulation of the protein structures of the skin by breaking intermolecular protein bonds. The action of TCA is stronger than the action of retinoic and glycolic acids.
2. It has regenerative properties: getting into the deep layers of the skin and dermis cells, it stimulates the formation of new cells, strengthens the protective barrier of the skin. It has an excellent anti-inflammatory and comedonolytic effect, normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands, eliminates blockage of the ducts of the sebaceous glands, narrows pores.
3. Stimulates metabolic processes: enhances the production of collagen and elastin, thereby achieving a lifting effect, stimulates metabolic processes in the walls of blood capillaries. 4.
It has an antimicrobial effect: the acid destroys the pathogenic flora that provokes the appearance of inflammation in the skin. 5.
Has an antioxidant property: binds heavy metals, blocks free radicals, thus protecting skin cells from harmful environmental influences.
Phenol provides the following effects:1. Exfoliating:
disrupts the bonds between corneocytes (horny cells of the epidermis) and thereby causes severe flaking of the skin.
2. Capillary-strengthening:phenol reduces membrane permeability and strengthens the vascular wall.
3. Anti-aging:inhibits the action of hyaluronidase (an enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid), thereby prolonging the "intrinsic" skin youth.
4. Anti-inflammatory: blocks inflammatory mediators, reducing signs of skin inflammation.
5. Antimicrobial:has a bactericidal effect, destroys all pathogenic microflora on the surface of the skin; 6.
Regenerating:promotes the development of a chemical burn, which starts the process of new cell division and self-regeneration of the skin. 7.
Anesthetic:the peel is comfortable and painless.
L-Ascorbic acid, the main effects of which are embodied in the form:1. Antioxidant protection: effectively fights free radicals, slows down the process of premature aging and reduces the signs of photoaging.
2. Sun Protection: Increases the skin's protective properties and UV resistance.
3. Anti-age effect: regulates and stimulates collagen synthesis. Increases its stability. Maintains firmness, elasticity, skin turgor. Prevents the appearance of wrinkles and reduces existing ones.
4. Pigmentation reduction: blocks tyrosinase and melanin production. Prevents age-related pigmentation. Effectively brightens already existing age spots. Evens out complexion. Adds shine.
5. Anti-inflammatory action: reduces inflammation and irritation. Stimulates regeneration. Lightens post-acne.
6. Hydrating: Strengthens the epidermal barrier. Prevents transepidermal water loss. Stimulates the synthesis of skin lipids (ceramides), which help to retain moisture in the skin.
7. Stimulation of local immunity: increases resistance to infections.
8. Regulation of pH.
Super light peeling with phenol: absolute safety and maximum results What features of peeling with trichloroacetic acid should doctors be aware of
L.G.:This technique was proposed by Monheit in the 1980s, Jessner's solution, in addition to its main properties and effects, weakens the bonds between keratinocytes, providing a more uniform penetration of TCA. The combination of Jessner peel and TAS is more than justified.
Peeling has clear criteria for the depth of penetration of trichloroacetic acid, which is determined by the nature of the "frost"; (the effect of instant skin lightening due to protein denaturation). The cosmetologist has the ability to control the depth of peeling by the number of layers applied.Table 1. Frost levels after TCA peel and degree of skin damage according to Zein Obagi
It is important to know the specifics of TCA peels.
After the peeling, the skin may have a pink or slightly red tint, there may be a burning sensation. These skin manifestations are temporary and disappear within 2-4 days. The skin gradually darkens, exfoliates in large layers. Particular attention should be paid to the post-peeling stage, in which it is strictly forbidden to remove the crusts intentionally. In this period, the use of reparative creams is shown: regenerating cream «IPLase mask», sunscreen «Melablock HSP SPF 50+, 30» Skin Tech.
Treatment in some cases turns into a way of life: drinking regimen, proper nutrition, systematic skin care, timely access to qualified specialists, systemic treatment and prevention of relapses.
To learn more about the procedures, please contact
Table 2. Personal results of complex acne treatment
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