Scientists argue that free radical lipid oxidation, provoked by solar radiation, plays a leading role in the manifestation of signs of photoaging of the skin. Some rays penetrate deep into the skin and cause the formation of wrinkles, others severely damage the surface layers, causing its sagging and dehydration, pigmentation disorders. According to estet-portal.com, a competent selection of products from the Filorga Laboratory (France) for home skin care in the summer, when the sun's rays are especially aggressive, will help to avoid sun troubles.
Why skin care requires choosing strong protective products
UV-B (280-320nm) and UV-A (320-400nm) are mainly absorbed by the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet rays of the sun, while UV-C (200-280nm) rays are almost completely absorbed by the ozone layer atmosphere.
UV-A is almost 100 times more powerful than UV-B, but UV-B rays damage the skin more, causing a real photochemical storm in it. Fortunately, UV-B does not penetrate beyond the epidermis. UV-A rays have less ability to cause damage to biological molecules than UV-B. But they penetrate into the dermis and, with a sufficiently long exposure, can lead to damage to collagen fibers and the formation of wrinkles.
Studies have shown that antioxidants applied to the skin before UV exposure significantly prevent its negative effects.
It can be assumed that free radical oxidation plays a leading role in UV-induced skin damage, and other effects are its consequences. At the same time, the direct effect of UV radiation on cell structures cannot be ignored. Lipid free radicals trigger a reaction that produces large amounts of new free radicals – snowball effect, and arachidonic acid metabolites appear, initiating an inflammatory response.
It can result in:
• cell damage or death (apoptosis),
• degeneration of a cell into a tumor cell.
UV radiation has a stimulating effect on various groups of skin cells. Most of them are included in the protection against the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation.
• Basal keratinocytes begin to divide intensively, which leads to an increase in the thickness of the epidermis and reduces the amount of radiation reaching living cells.
• Epidermal melanocytes produce pigment – tan appears. At the same time, UV-A causes immediate pigmentation (a grayish tan that appears almost immediately after irradiation), and UV-B – delayed pigmentation (brown tan preceded by skin redness – erythema).
• The endothelial cells of the blood vessels are activated and angiogenesis is enhanced. Indirectly, this can stimulate carcinogenesis, awakening "dormant" tumors. At the same time, under the action of radiation, the number of Langerhans cells in the epidermis decreases. It also promotes carcinogenesis by allowing degenerate cells to elude the control of the immune system.
The pigment melanin plays a special role in protecting the skin from the sun. The absorption spectrum of melanin covers the entire range of visible light (which is why melanin looks black) and the UV range. When absorbing light quanta, melanin behaves like any other molecule – trying to get rid of excess energy. Part of the energy it converts into heat, and part is spent on photochemical reactions.
The colorless melanin precursors DGI and DGICC play an important role in protecting the skin from UV radiation.
When oxidized, they polymerize, resulting in the formation of brown and black pigments – eumelanins. Oxidation can occur with the participation of enzymes or spontaneously. Eumelanins have antioxidant properties.
In recent years, attempts have been made to use various synthetic melanins and biotechnologically obtained melanins in medicine and cosmetology as antioxidants. Developed by Laboratory Filorga, skin protection products contain powerful antioxidants to help prevent free radical activity, reduce the effects of solar radiation and other damaging factors on the skin.
Means for skin care and protection against harmful external influences
The Filorga Laboratory has developed products for home use, which are mandatory prescribed by a cosmetologist after cosmetic salon procedures to protect the skin from external factors, and also as a permanent supportive skin care in the summer.
Aging 50 Sunscreen: UV protection
Active Ingredients
SC-COMPLEX. A hygroscopic substance that creates moisture reserves in the deep layers of the skin and strengthens the skin barrier. The composition is very close to physiological NMF (Natural Moisture Factor), restores the skin's hydro-barrier, provides deep and instant hydration that lasts 72 hours.
SARCOZINE. Reduces the activity of type 1 5α-reductase, an enzyme that directly affects the process of sebum production. As a result, the number of rashes, the cause of which is excessive production of sebum, is reduced. Mattifies the skin and evens out the complexion.
Vitamin E (tocopherol). At the same time it is an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing component. Blocks the action of free radicals, thus reducing the damage that is caused to cells during UV exposure.
Vitamin B3 (niacinamide). Plays an important role in the protection and repair of DNA. Also regenerates key molecules such as protein, collagen, and fibroblasts. Maintains skin hydration and prevents transepidermal fluid loss.
HAB5-HYDRA Serum: Deep Hydration
Active Ingredients
Vitamin B5 (panthenol). Starts the synthesis of amino acid precursors of fatty acids and sphingolipids. Thanks to this, the hydrolipidic mantle is restored, hydration improves, peeling on the skin surface decreases and inflammation indirectly decreases. Due to the powerful hygroscopic properties – leading moisturizing component.
Hydrating Tri-HA Complex – Wrinkle filler. Consists of hyaluronic acid molecules in its three forms.
High molecular weight HA (1.000-1.400kDa):
• forms a non-greasy film and regulates water evaporation;
• retains moisture on the surface of the skin and thus acts as a water reservoir;
• protects the skin from external aggression.
Provides intense hydration for over 24 hours, +45.6% after 8 hours.
Low Molecular Weight HA (20-50 kDa):
• stimulates the synthesis of proteins that form impermeable septa to reduce transepidermal fluid loss and retain moisture in the dermis;
• stimulates the production of type I dermal collagen, which improves skin elasticity.
Vegetable HA. Polysaccharides derived from tamarind beans, similar to HA, have a triple action, after 15 days +42% hydration compared to HA, skin is smoother: +36%, elastic: +36%.Erytrol + Gomarin. Strong osmotic component to maintain skin homeostasis.
Erytrol has high penetrating properties and retains moisture. Gomarin is a cyclic zwitterion that corrects ionic imbalances in the cell. In combination, they maintain the volume and amount of moisture in the cells, ensuring their resistance in an aggressive environment. Moisturizing occurs gradually in different layers of the skin.
NCTF Spray «Protective Veil»
NCTF + HA. This is a complex used in anti-aging mesotherapy, intensively renews tissues, moisturizes tired skin and skin with a lack of radiance, smoothes wrinkles.
Quercetin dimer. A new active form of quercetin, a polyphenol with antioxidant properties, protects the skin and fights signs of aging in an urban environment.
Actiscent. Patented aromamolecule based on rosemary, olive, juniper fruit, mimosa – revitalizes the skin. Active against free radicals, inhibitor of elastase and hyaluronidase.
The serum is applied in the morning under the cream, it can be used in the morning and in the evening. The cream should be applied in the morning before sun exposure and reapplied as often as needed throughout the day (every 2 hours during sun exposure).<
Protective spray is used before cream, to enhance the effect of serum, and during the day for urban protection, as a primer and make-up fixer.
Complex application of protective agents
from the Filorga Laboratory allows you to reliably protect the skin from aggressive environmental factors and becomes a good prevention of photoaging.
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