Therapy for skin conditions after chemical peels

Chemical peelings occupy an honorable place in the practice of a cosmetologist. The secret of their popularity is simple – it is a combination of affordability, relatively low price and predictable results. The extraordinary variety of compositions promises us a procedure that can satisfy the most demanding patients. Despite the rapid development of cosmetic correction methods, chemical peels, due to their effectiveness and availability, continue to hold one of the leading positions.

Chemical peeling damages the epidermis and/or dermis, followed by stimulation of new tissue formation. Additional local treatment with specialized  cosmetic preparations  stimulates recovery after peelings. The purpose of the procedure is not only to restore the structure of the skin, but also to improve its appearance. 

Valentina Zolotareva – Candidate of Medical Sciences, dermatovenereologist of the highest category, cosmetologist, scientific director of the cosmetology department of the Ukrainian Academy of Dermatovenereology.

What determines the result after chemical peels

Which layers and structures of the skin will be affected by a peeling formulation depends to a large extent on the method of application and the chemical properties of its active ingredients. In order to fully understand this treatment method and its indications, basic knowledge is required. 

The cosmetic result of a chemical peel primarily depends on the depth of penetration of the chemical solution and the subsequent restoration of the skin. How deeply a peeling solution can penetrate and therefore what damage it can cause depends on the chemical properties of its active ingredients, their quantitative ratio, the method of application and the type of skin of the patient. For a general classification of methods from which a specialist can choose the appropriate one, the terms "superficial", "median" are used; and "deep" peeling.

The cosmetic result of a chemical peel primarily depends on the depth of penetration of the chemical solution and the subsequent restoration of the skin.

It is difficult to predict how a peeling composition will actually work on a patient's skin. This is always influenced by the characteristics of the patient's skin and the method of application of the composition. Therefore, in addition to knowledge of the theoretical and practical foundations, peeling also requires ingenuity to solve the problems of each individual patient. This side of chemical peeling is often referred to as the art of chemical peeling. 

What happens in the skin after superficial, medium and deep chemical peels

So, let's briefly recall each type of peeling and what happens in the skin in one case or another. 

1. Superficial peeling.

The depth of damage in superficial chemical peels varies from the stratum corneum to the granular layer of the epidermis. The intensity of damage depends on the chemical composition, pH, amount and frequency of applied peeling. The reddening of the skin that occurs during vasodilation makes it clear that it is time to neutralize the acidic composition. Since the drug affects the dead layers of  skin, there is no frost effect. Its presence & nbsp; will indicate a deeper than planned penetration of the peeling. After the procedure, mild hyperemia persists for 1-1.5 hours. On the 1– 3rd day, a light, small-brown or small-lamellar peeling begins, which is completely eliminated after 2-3 days. 

For superficial chemical peeling, alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, citric) with different pH and concentrations can be used; salicylic  acid 15–20%; ferulic acid 30-50%; trichloacetic 8-15%; complex Jessner peel. 

2. Medium peel.

Medium Chemical Peel – This is a medical procedure that is carried out in a medical office. The level of skin damage in median peeling extends from the basal layer of the epidermis to the papillary dermis. Mechanism of damage –  coagulative necrosis. When applied, the patient feels a strong burning sensation on the border with pain. The drug does not require neutralization, since it occurs independently due to the destruction of the protein. This is expressed in the appearance of a frost effect on the surface. After some time, frost is replaced by erythema and edema (which may increase over the next day). On the 3rd-4th day, large-lamellar or leaf peeling of a dark brown color begins to converge, which can last up to seven days.

Such peeling limits the patient's social activity and requires clear and immediate post-peel care. Median peeling is carried out once or with repetition, but not more than once a month. 

The most common medial peeling agent is trichloroacetic acid at a concentration of more than 15%, and this effect is also achieved with numerous applications of Jessner peeling; phenol in a concentration of not more than 35%.

Deep peeling.

Deep chemical peeling is performed  rarely, often once in a lifetime, as the damage reaches the middle of the reticular layer of the dermis. This procedure is carried out in a hospital under general anesthesia, the recovery period is up to 4 weeks under aseptic dressings. Damaged skin comes off like a "mask" and repaired skin often resembles a wax mask. The skin is very thin, transparent, easily damaged, it takes quite a long time to recover. The peeling effect lasts up to 10 years. Drugs used: phenol 50–88%.

Side effects and complications after chemical peels

Based on the above, we understand that there are certain risks of complications! What are they? 

Most common side effects:

inflammatory erythema;
demarcation line;
frost effect; 
edema;
skin  sensitization.

True complications of the chemical peel procedure:

attachment of a secondary infection;
herpetic infection;
foci of hypo- and hyperpigmentation;
aggressive hyperpigmentation (melasma);
exacerbation of acne, seborrheic dermatitis;
allergic dermatitis;
persistent erythema;
scars.

Healthy looking skin – it is a complex balance of thousands of processes of protection, restoration and response to external aggression. In the skin all the time "the orchestra plays" cellular processes aimed at restoring the structure of the dermis and healing damage. Dermal remodeling is provided by a process of constant renewal, in which it is very important to maintain a balance between the synthesis of new components of the skin matrix and the destruction of the "aged" ones.

Dermal remodeling is provided by a process of constant renewal, in which it is very important to maintain a balance between the synthesis of new components of the skin matrix and the destruction of the "aged" ones.

The question "What to do?" stands  in front of cosmetologists both before the chemical peeling procedure and after.

How to prevent early and late complications? How to protect and restore the skin? What drugs meet these requirements? What will help the skin achieve "young" upgrade balance level? What substances play a primary role in the healing and regeneration of the skin?

How to restore the skin after chemical peels

The first and only innovative Swiss premium cosmeceutical line

EVENSWISS is not focused on the type of skin and age of the patient, but on the treatment of its condition. 

 EVENSWISS comprises a unique complex Dermatopoietin, which accelerates the repair, restoration and renewal of the skin, activating its own rejuvenation process. The action of this component is aimed at the signaling system of interleukin-1 alpha, which is involved in the regulation of the skin renewal process, including dermal remodeling.

The first and only innovative Swiss premium cosmeceutical line EVENSWISS is focused not on the type of skin and age of the patient, but on the treatment of its condition. 

The peptide complex  Dermatopoietin  includes Dermatopoietin proper  (OR-1 alpha\Sh Polypeptide-17 ) and Hexadeltine (Hexadeltide-18). 

The most important properties of the peptide duet:

stimulation of epidermal keratinocytes to produce new interleukin-1 alpha molecules, that is, to "self-reproduction"; 
regulation of epidermal cell renewal: interleukin 1-alpha does not directly affect the proliferation of keratinocytes, but acts as a primary inducer of epidermal growth, acting on dermal fibroblasts, plays a critical role in the formation and renewal of healthy skin epidermis; 
regulation of collagen and elastin renewal: manages the life cycle in the dermis, carries out complex regulation of both the pathways for the synthesis of new collagen and the pathways for the degradation of old collagen; 
participation in the formation of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid – one of the main components of the dermis, providing water & nbsp; balance, movement and other & nbsp; characteristics of skin cells necessary for its normal functioning. In response to stimulation with Interleukin 1-alpha, dermal fibroblasts produce glycosaminoglycans, including hyaluronic acid; 
regulation of melanogenesis: IL-1a regulates melanogenesis in response to damage to the epidermal barrier by any traumatic factors (not only chemical and mechanical nature, but also UV irradiation); 
regulation of the barrier function: stimulates the synthesis of lipids in the epidermis, normalizes the layered structure of the latter and thus increases the skin's ability to retain moisture. Epidermal Il-1a is essential for the maintenance of normal skin barrier function, especially in aging and damaged skin. Age-related barrier dysfunction of the skin can be reduced by using interleukin-1 alpha in skin care.

Regenerating Plasma for the treatment of skin conditions after chemical peels

For the prevention of complications and post-peeling care, signal cosmetics  EVENSWISS suggests us to use  regenerating serum-plasma REGENERATING PLASMA, which:

Contains a unique Dermatopoietin peptide complex that provides an instant regenerating, healing, soothing and light cooling effect.

Restores skin structure damaged as a result of aggressive cosmetic procedures (thermal and chemical burns, mechanical injuries). An innovative complex of signal peptides (dermatopoietin + hexadeltin) activates the skin's ability to self-regenerate through the cascade synthesis of IL-1a from corneocytes to fibroblasts of the lower layers of the reticular dermis.

Increases the synthesis of collagen and elastin, improves skin elasticity and firmness, smoothes wrinkles. The extracts included in the composition have powerful revitalizing and regenerating properties, protect the skin from oxidative stress. Ceramides, vitamins A, B5, E, F, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and propolis extract promote skin regeneration, restore the lipid barrier, strengthen and tighten the skin.

For the prevention of complications and post-peel care, it is proposed to  use  REGENERATING PLASMA.

A regenerating serum-plasma is applied 2-3 times a day, depending on the initial post-procedure condition of the skin, during the required regeneration period – from 14 days to 1–2 months.

Read also:

Evenswiss peptide cosmetics in the program for correcting aesthetic and age-related skin changes.

The peptide composition of Dermatopoietin and Hexadeltine became the heart of EVENSWISS formulations and predetermined their main purpose – restoration of the skin structure. Even if the skin has no visible damage, its structure can be changed.

To get answers to all your questions, as well as to purchase Evenswiss signal cosmetics for professional and home care, please contact the exclusive distributor of

Evenswiss in Ukraine – FLP Chumak N.I.