Points of application of cosmetics in the treatment of acne

Common acne (acne) is a chronic disease of the sebaceous glands and hair follicles.  The prevalence of acne is extremely high - acne vulgaris affects from 80 to 90% of people at different periods of life, mainly occurring in adolescence. That is why acne is the most common reason clients seek cosmetologists. Natalya Reznichenko – shared her experience of using cosmetics for this problem with the readers of estet-portal.com. MD, dermatovenereologist of the highest category, and Galina Reznichenko – MD, professor, obstetrician-gynecologist of the highest category.

Acne Causes and Use of Cosmetics to Correct Them

The mechanism of acne formation is a complex process of biochemical reactions, interactions between the human skin and microorganisms on its surface, and immune changes. The main links in this complex mechanism:

• genetic predisposition;
• Changes in hormonal status;
• violation of the composition and production of sebum;
• violation of follicular keratinization;
• intensive colonization of the ducts of the sebaceous glands by propionic acid bacteria;
• development of an inflammatory reaction.

Of course, acne is not a hereditary disease. But what is inherited? Certain genes are responsible for the development of the sebaceous glands and their functioning. Therefore, in some people, acne occurs easily and almost imperceptibly, quickly passes. And some people initially develop severe forms of the disease with the formation of nodes, cysts, abscesses and numerous scars.

In any case, the entire process of acne formation is triggered by certain hormones. These include free testosterone, dehydroepiandrosterone, androstenedione, and progesterone. All these hormones are normally produced in the human body. For example, in women in the period before menstruation, the level of progesterone rises, which causes the appearance of new acne during this period. Then the amount of progesterone decreases and the acne disappears.

However, in some diseases (for example, polycystic ovaries, tumors of the ovaries and adrenal glands), there may be an increase in the level of androgens in the blood (so-called "hyperandrogenism"), which leads to persistent acne rashes that are difficult to correct. In such cases, it is impossible to do without consulting an obstetrician-gynecologist and a blood test for hormone levels. With an increased content of androgens in the blood, special oral contraceptives are prescribed for 3-6 months. If earlier doctors and patients were afraid of side effects from the use of such drugs, primarily weight gain, then modern drugs do not have such an effect and can be safely used to correct acne.

The presence of hormonal changes and treatment by an obstetrician-gynecologist in no way excludes cosmetic procedures and the selection of effective cosmetic products for acne.

It should be remembered that oral contraceptives have a photosensitizing effect. And if they have been prescribed, the task of the beautician is to choose the right sunscreen. Firstly, it is necessary to pay attention to the level of the sun protection factor (SPF), and secondly, to the possibility of using it for "problem skin". The most effective and safest in such cases will be HISTAN CREAM SPF 50+, presented by

Intercosmetic Group. This product has maximum protection against UVA and UVB rays, suitable for hypersensitive and children's skin, as well as for special areas such as acne, fresh scars, nevi, rosacea, vitiligo, actinic keratosis.

Correction of enzymatic activity in acne with the help of cosmetics

Acne is not always the result of increased androgen levels. What causes acne with normal hormonal levels? This is an increase in the activity of enzymes in the cells of the sebaceous glands:

•    17ß-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenases and 3ß-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenases, which convert dehydroepiandrosterone and 4-androstenedione to testosterone;
•    5α-reductase, which converts less active free testosterone in the skin into more active dihydrotestosterone.

It is because of the increased activity of these enzymes that we can observe severe forms of acne in the absence of hormonal changes.

How is it possible to reduce the activity of these enzymes? This effect is easily achieved using the highly effective line of cosmetics HISTOMER OILY SKIN FORMULA. It includes the Regu-Seb complex, consisting of creeping sawaw and prickly argan, a powerful inhibitor of 5α-reductase. Therefore, the HISTOMER OILY SKIN FORMULA line is recommended for acne in people with and without hormonal changes. By blocking the enzyme 5α-reductase, the disappearance of existing acne is noted and the formation of new elements is prevented.

Choice of cosmetics for the correction of inflammatory acne-rashes

In the absence of adequate cosmetic care against the background of an increased level of androgens –  on the one hand, and high activity of the enzyme 5α-reductase –  on the other hand, the secretion of lipids increases in the sebaceous glands. These lipids contain substances that promote "gluing" epitheliocytes at the mouth of the sebaceous gland, and are one of the causes of follicular hyperkeratosis.

Violation of the composition of sebum and insufficient exfoliation of cells in the stratum corneum of the epidermis leads to the closure of the mouth of the sebaceous gland and the formation of a closed comedone. As a result, air access inside the sebaceous gland is stopped and optimal anoxic conditions are created for the activation of propionic acid bacteria (Propionbacterium acnes), which are the main cause of inflammatory acne rashes.

Where previously dermatologists often resorted to bacteriological cultures to identify microorganisms that could cause inflammation, the low effectiveness of such studies has now been proven. First of all, this is due to the complexity of sowing. Special media and conditions are required for growing propionic acid bacteria, which are not available in every laboratory. Therefore, in the presence of papulo-pustular acne, in most cases, one should not waste time on microbiological analyzes, but it is necessary to immediately prescribe external agents that have antibacterial and antiseptic effects.

The sooner cosmetic correction of papulo-pustular acne is started, the less the risk of scarring and post-acne pigmentation.

The HISTOMER OILY SKIN FORMULA line of cosmetics is not only equal, but in many ways even superior to registered acne medications. In addition to the Regu-Seb complex, HISTOMER OILY SKIN FORMULA cosmetics contain the following components that are extremely important in acne correction:

•    piroctonolamine, characterized by a pronounced antiseborrheic, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effect;
•    farnesol and decylene glycol, which have antibacterial action;
•    isabolol, known for its intense anti-inflammatory effect;
•    sebum-reducing zinc;
•    Larrea Divaricata (creosote bush leaf extract), which is a powerful keratoregulator;
•    kaolin, the action of which is aimed at gentle exfoliation, adsorption of sebum.

Thus, HISTOMER OILY SKIN FORMULA cosmetics contain all the necessary ingredients to eliminate both non-inflammatory acne rashes (open and closed comedones) and inflammatory forms (papules and pustules). In addition, the HISTOMER OILY SKIN FORMULA line has an intense anti-seborrheic effect. It is provided by the presence of Regu-Seb complex, zinc, pyroctonolamine, kaolin and bisabolol. Therefore, the HISTOMER OILY SKIN FORMULA cosmetic line can be successfully used not only for acne correction, but also for the treatment of seborrhea and seborrheic dermatitis.

Choice of cosmetics for the correction of post-acne cicatricial complications

Unfortunately, a certain part of clients seek cosmetic help out of time, having formed complications after acne. These primarily include atrophic and hypertrophic scars.

Previously, their correction was a difficult task for a cosmetologist, since all means for removing scars were ineffective, requiring long-term daily external application to the skin. What has changed in the modern medical world? Biologically active enzymes have appeared that can act on various pathological formations.

Collagenase G/H PB220 is an absolutely effective enzyme for both atrophic and hypertrophic post-acne scars.

It is part of a number of preparations of ТМ PBSerum (Spain). Collagenase breaks down collagen fibers in fibrous septa and boosts the production of new collagen, therefore it is successfully used not only for fairly superficial post-acne scars, but also in cases of fibrotic changes after major operations in the abdominal cavity, chest.

Thus, acne treatment is often a difficult task, requiring tests, consultations of various specialists, and the use of medicines. But the timely choice of effective cosmetics allows you to quickly eliminate acne rashes, prevent the appearance of complications in the form of scars and pigmentation, and prevent the occurrence of new acne.

Acne treatment, regardless of the severity and prevalence, is impossible without the use of cosmetic lines for "problem skin", which are widely represented by the company

"Intercosmetic Group".