Topical eye care products: effective ingredients

One of the most delicate areas of the face with particularly thin skin – periorbital – often reveals the patient's age first. This is the reason for the popularity of various anti-age procedures aimed at rejuvenating her: botulinum toxin injections, dermal fillers, platelet-rich plasma, and hardware exposure.

Ophthalmologist Jennifer Doyle believes that when choosing any anti-aging procedure, it is important to know what topical agents will further slow down the aging of the area around the eyes and can improve and prolong the results invasive procedures.

Signs of aging and aesthetic imperfections of the eye area

The most common aesthetic problems in the eye area are:

•    dark circles;

•    puffiness;

•    fine lines and wrinkles.

The thickness of the skin in the periorbital area, in particular on the eyelids, is only 0.2 mm. Her delicacy and closeness to the eye – reasons why care should be taken when choosing and using topical agents.

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There are a wide variety of active ingredients available on the market for skin rejuvenation in skin care formulations.

These include:

•    retinoids;

•    antioxidants;

•    caffeine;

•    growth factors;

•    peptides.

The thickness of the skin in the periorbital area, in particular on the eyelids, is only 0.2 mm.

Overview of Active Ingredients in Periorbital Topicals

Retinoids

In a recent study (Park et al., 2016), participants (n = 19) applied 0.1% tretinoin cream to the eye area on one side of the face for three months. After 12 weeks, the severity of wrinkles on the treated part of the face decreased by 21%.

Despite adverse events (occurring in 7 of 19 participants) such as erythema, burning sensation, skin peeling and pruritus, the intensity of which decreased towards the end of treatment, the ease of use and minimal invasiveness of the cream led to patient satisfaction. Patients should be warned that as the skin adapts to retinoids, the severity of adverse effects decreases.

Antioxidants

Vitamin C not only reduces the appearance of fine lines by promoting collagen synthesis and neutralizing free radicals, it also brightens the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis. When using vitamin C, the elasticity of the skin increases, which is very important for the area around the eyes. Vitamin E, B3 and green tea – all of these antioxidants are safe and effective in the care of the periorbital area, however, when using them, there is a possibility of developing dermatitis, which the patient should be warned about.

Caffeine

Caffeine is found in cosmeceutical eye products, but is often used in combination with other anti-aging agents such as antioxidants. Therefore, it is difficult to evaluate the effect of caffeine when applied topically to the periorbital zone.

Growth Factors

Smoothing wrinkles and repairing photodamaged skin – the main results of the use of topical agents with growth factors and cytokines. Many studies demonstrate the effectiveness of growth factors in the rejuvenation of the periorbital zone, in particular, in reducing the severity of wrinkles. Growth factors used after blepharoplasty also help to reduce the severity of scarring. Itching and redness of the skin – possible side effects that patients should be warned about.

When prescribing any topical eye treatment, it is important to warn the patient about the possible side effects of the active ingredients.

Peptides

Topical application of peptides promotes skin rejuvenation by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin. In 2013, Reivitis et al. conducted a prospective study evaluating the efficacy of topical tripeptide and hexapeptide. The study involved 10 patients who applied the above substances to the periorbital region twice a day for 12 weeks.

Recipes for rejuvenation of the eye area: cosmetic procedures

After 12 weeks, the following results were obtained:

•    41% reduction in the appearance of wrinkles;

•    29% reduction in under-eye circles;

•    48% reduction in the appearance of bags under the eyes;

•    39% reduction in the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.

Proper skin care around the eyes requires the use of sunscreen. There is evidence of the effectiveness of retinoids, antioxidants, caffeine, growth factors and peptides in the rejuvenation of the periorbital region. When prescribing certain topical products for skin care around the eyes, it is important to warn the patient about the possible side effects of the active ingredients.

Adapted from Aesthetics