Theories of aging generally accepted today do not fully reflect the essence of this process and are rather complementary. According to one theory, aging — this is a genetically programmed process, the other defines aging as the result of damage arising and accumulating in the course of life.
According to ICD-10, there are two types of age-related skin changes – chronoaging and photoaging. In the context of the general aging of the body, covering all organs and tissues of a person, one should consider endogenous, or biological, aging of the skin – a process that is genetically determined and characterized by predominantly functional changes rather than morphological ones.
At the same time, exogenous aging of the skin develops under the influence of adverse environmental factors. Thus, skin aging should be considered as an inevitable, complex, multifactorial process in the human body.
Change in color, dryness, loss of tone, decrease in elasticity and deterioration of skin texture, the appearance of wrinkles, folds, age spots – all these signs of age in one way or another disturb every patient of a cosmetologist. When drawing up an individual anti-age plan, it is important to take into account a number of factors, including the morphotype of facial aging, in order not only to eliminate existing ones, but also to delay the appearance of new age-related changes through the right choice of anti-aging care products.
Features of the main morphotypes of facial aging
According to the classification proposed by Professor Kolgunenko I.I., there are 5 morphotypes of age-related changes in the skin of the face in women: tired, deformed, wrinkled, muscular, mixed.
1. Tired
Tired morphotype or "tired face" characterized by a slight swelling of the face, the cause of which is a violation of lymphatic drainage, a decrease in skin turgor and the tone of mimic muscles. A moderate degree of gravitational ptosis is revealed. Photoaging is mild to moderate (slight hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone). According to this type, the aging process occurs in thin women with an oval or diamond-shaped face, with normal skin in youth and moderately dry in middle age.
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People look tired and sleepy: the corners of the mouth are lowered, the nasolabial folds are strongly pronounced, there are bags under the eyes, the skin is dry and dull, of an earthy hue. Withering of tissues is observed, but there are no permanent wrinkles yet. In the morning, after a good rest, they look good, by the evening the face looks tired. A tired morphotype is considered the most favorable option, a kind of marker of the physiological course of aging
2. Wrinkled (finely wrinkled)
A characteristic feature of the fine wrinkled type of aging is too thin and dry skin, prone to redness and irritation, as well as wrinkles.
The most important, reliable and fundamental signs in determining the age — wrinkles. The visual method involves registering their location, determining the type, depth and degree of their severity.
There are many classifications of wrinkles as signs that characterize age periods. Specialists highlight:
- orthostatic (exist from the moment of birth and do not belong to the signs of aging)
- dynamic (reflect the activity of mimic muscles and are formed at any age)
- gravitational (formed by 40 — 45 years) and combined folds and wrinkles.
According to the classification of S.N. Potapova, wrinkles are divided into four degrees:
I degree — superficial intermittent furrows that disappear when the skin is pulled;
II degree — superficial continuous furrows, spreading when the skin is pulled;
III degree — persistent deep skin furrow that does not disappear when the skin is stretched;
IV degree — deep furrow with skin fold.
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In foreign literature, the Glogau classification (Glogau classification) is most often used, according to which one should distinguish between:
mild wrinkles (age 28 — 35 years) — few wrinkles, no keratosis;
moderate wrinkles (age 35—50 years) — early wrinkling, sallow complexion with early actinic keratosis;
advanced wrinkles (age 50 — 60 years) — permanent wrinkles, uneven skin pigmentation with telangiectasias and actinic keratosis;
deep (severe) wrinkles (age 65 — 70 years old) — deep wrinkles, signs of photoaging, gravitational and dynamic folds and furrows, actinic keratosis with or without malignancy.
3. Deformation
In the deformation morphotype, the dominant sign of aging is a change in the configuration of the face and neck, deformation of the soft tissues of the face. There is sagging of the cheeks, the formation of folds on the neck, bags under the eyes, overhanging eyelids. An uneven line of the oval of the face appears, a second chin, pronounced nasolabial folds are determined. The skin is quite dense, shiny, can be oily, porous.
There is mild or moderate photoaging, slight hyperpigmentation of the skin. Skin aging is aggravated in the presence of an edematous or vascular component. With an edematous component, puffiness of the face is observed. The vascular component is expressed by rosacea. People of this morphotype in terms of physique are usually inclined to be overweight. For a long time, their face shape remains round and there are no wrinkles, but over time, an excess of subcutaneous fat leads to the formation of the above changes.
The use of such methods as sebummetry, corneometry, pH-metry made it possible to establish that already in patients younger than 40 years old there are initial involutional changes, especially of a functional nature (decrease in skin hydration, increased loss of skin moisture, changes in pH towards alkalization). At the same time, age-related changes affect lipogenesis and the composition of the sebaceous secretion. The content of squalene decreases significantly from 13% at the age of 15 years to 5% at the age of 70 years. Triglycerides tend to rise by 2 to 15% during the same period; monoesters and polar lipids do not change.
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4. Muscular (muscular)
The muscular morphotype of aging is typical for Asians with well-developed facial muscles in combination with a genetically small amount of subcutaneous fat, moderately elastic skin that is difficult to displace relative to the underlying tissues.
Aging proceeds according to the type of malnutrition and atrophy of the skin and muscles, manifested mainly by a violation of pigmentation, folding of the upper and lower eyelids, pronounced nasolabial folds, and drooping corners of the mouth. At the same time, the skin of the cheeks remains smooth and even, the oval of the face is preserved until old age. The muscular morphotype of aging is typical for representatives of only the yellow race, in women of the Slavic race it is not detected
5. Mixed morphotype - it is characterized by a combination of the first three types of aging.
In women over 55 years old, these morphotypes of aging are mixed and, as a rule, one can already speak of a combined type (late type of aging) with a predominance of one or another type of aging “Your face at twenty is given to you by nature; what it will be like at fifty depends on you.” Coco Chanel said. Therefore, it is very important to prevent skin aging already at a moderate age. The Chrono Age line of preparations is specially designed to prevent early skin aging.
Chrono Age line: powerful skin protection against chrono-, photoaging
Perfect for all skin types, Chronoage provides cell renewal and repair from free radical damage, while protecting the skin during times of high stress and seasonal changes. First of all, the preparations of the line support the natural process of cell respiration – The Krebs cycle, which results in the synthesis of ATP and slows down mitochondrial aging, caused primarily by the negative effects of free radicals. There is also protection from glycation processes of such structural proteins as keratin, collagen, elastin.
Fortified with: ATiP ENERGY®, a-lipoic acid, phytic acid, quercetin.
The range includes:
• Chronoage Revitalizing Face Cream;
• Anti-smog protective base cream with SPF 20 (primer without tone and foundation);
• Anti-aging mask (Bioskin) based on fucoidans from smog with active anti-inflammatory effect;• Intensive Repair Serum Chronoage.
Perfect for all skin types, Chronoage line renews and repairs cells damaged by free radicals and protects the skin during times of high stress and seasonal changes.
CHRONO AGE
® Cellular repair system is the result of cutting-edge research, using the latest bioavailable active ingredients specifically designed to stimulate cellular metabolic activity.
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Chrono age® products, thanks to their high-tech liquid crystal formulations, allow the transport of active substances into the deep layers of the skin, which provides the absolutely necessary protection of cellular metabolism for the quality functioning of the skin and, therefore, to maintain it ideal appearance in terms of anatomy and physiology.
Like all Dermophisiologique products marketed byMedissa-K, the Chrono age® does not contain mineral oils, parabens, synthetic dyes, allergenic fragrances; Has a certified antioxidant effect.
Line Control C5: anti-aging treatment for wrinkled agingA line specially developed by the Italian company
Dermophisiologique for the correction of wrinkles in people of mature age by anatomical and functional restoration of the dermoepidermal junction, synthesis of skin proteins and their protection against metalloproteases (MMPs). Advanced advanced technology to target the structures that support the skin and determine its continuous renewal, strength and firmness.
Line Control C5 is ideal for mature skin with deep wrinkles.Control and prevention of signs of aging are provided by the active ingredients in the base of the products, namely:
• cyclopeptide 5;
• panthenol;
• ceramides 1,3,6;
• lycopene.
• Hyaluronic Acid
• Amino acids: glycine, lysine, proline
• Centella asiatica extract
The range includes:
• serum;• cream.
CYCLOPEPTIDE-5
The cyclic biomimetic peptide acts very selectively and, therefore, specifically and purposefully. Cyclopeptide-5 adapts to the receptors of skin cells, activates the normal processes of cell adhesion of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and cell metabolism, activating the processes of skin metabolism and repair.
Xtra Tone: anti-aging care for deformation type of aging
At the heart of the products from the Xtra Tone – ATiP ENERGY
® complex, ceramides 2, matrikine peptide, which stimulate the synthesis of new collagen and elastin fibers. This ensures that the elasticity of the dermal matrix is restored.
Line Xtra Tone is ideal for atonic, sagging skin with signs of premature aging.A special line for the care of atonic, flabby and sagging skin of the face and body. Strengthens and renews the main structures of the skin, gives it firmness and elasticity.
The range includes:
• face cream;• Xtra Tone ampoules for face and body care;
• Strengthening serum to restore skin elasticity.
The line is aimed at filling the skin by stimulating the synthesis of structural proteins of the skin: collagen and elastin. With age, the susceptibility of cells to signals from outside decreases, and the ability to produce collagen and elastin decreases. As a result, the dermal volume and skin turgor are lost.
The innovative and high-tech Xtra-Tone line fights atony by improving cellular metabolism with the help of Matricrins – signal peptides. The line also stimulates cellular metabolism with the exclusive, patented ATiPenergy
® complex in combination with specific isoamino acids. Tightens the epidermis with Ceramide 2.
The products of the Xtra Tone line are suitable for all types of male and female skin, maintaining a young and well-groomed appearance of the face and body. The skin of the face restores tone and elasticity, and the body acquires elastic forms.
Aeterna line: comprehensive fight against all signs of aging
The complex action of the – anti-aging care, lifting, preservation of youthful skin – makes it ideal for combating all signs of aging and skin restructuring. The effectiveness of the products is due to the presence in their composition of GP4G
®, hyaluronic acid (filler), meadow clover, soy phytoestrogens, vitamins and ceramides.
The ruler consists of:
• face creams;• Intensive Anti-Aging Facial Serum;
• Cleansing face cream.
AETERNA – dermocosmetic line that creates the effect of "natural lifting", prevents and corrects the signs of skin aging. Helps to restore its vitality, preserve water and energy resources, at the same time renews the structure of the skin at the cellular and extracellular level, keeping it young.
®, obtained from Artemia extract, the complex awakens the activity of skin cells, promotes DNA protection, stimulates protein synthesis – filaggrin, keratin, collagen, fibronectin and provides high strength and skin tone.
Cross-linked hyaluronic acid enhances the lifting effect, adding volume and instantly providing turgor. The line contains powerful restructuring agents extracted from the depths of the sea, combined with ceramides and vitamins necessary to maintain and strengthen the structure of the skin, contribute to the natural physiological care of mature, thin and withered skin.The AETERNA line has been created using the latest generation components that make application as convenient and comfortable as possible.
The complex action of the Aeterna line – anti-aging care, lifting, preservation of youthful skin – makes it ideal for combating all signs of aging and skin restructuring.
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