Lentigo: how to get rid of a cosmetic flaw

Age and solar hyperpigmentation of the skin, otherwise called lentigo, does not frighten cosmetologists, who consider it not so much a problem as a field for experimentation. The fact is that small dark spots on the skin, if they are benign and do not threaten health, are the cosmetic flaw that the client is in a hurry to part with as soon as possible. Indeed, age spots are quite noticeable, and therefore in the arsenal of cosmetologists every day there are more and more products that can not only hide, but also prevent the appearance of hyperpigmentation.

Lentigo: types, localization, diagnostic features

Lentigo (Lentigines, Naevi spili) - benign local melanocytic hyperchromia of the skin with possible malignancy. on open areas of the skin: face, neck and limbs.

Lentigo exists in several varieties:

simple,
youthful,
senile,
sunny (against the background of hyperinsolation), genodermatosis.

A feature of lentigo is its aesthetic component, which violates the quality of life of patients, provided that the process is widespread. The disease is diagnosed clinically and dermatoscopically.

Lentigo simple

Lentigo can be up to several millimeters in diameter, localized on various parts of the body, more often located on the face, arms, torso, less often on the neck and legs.

Individual lentigo occurs in almost every person at any age. Hereditary lentigines appear in childhood, before the age of nine. But exposure to the skin at an early age is not practiced, primarily because of the unstable hormonal background. This type of hyperpigmentation can be removed between the ages of 16 and 20 and is one of the most difficult to work with.

The appearance of pigmentation in old age, with localization on the face, rear of the forearms and hands, is assessed as “senile lentigo”. As we age, melanin is produced unevenly, and stress and the environment have a negative effect on the skin, so uneven texture and color develop. These manifestations can be reduced and controlled.

The main amount of hyperpigmentation is due to UV radiation and a violation of the antioxidant protection of the skin. Ultraviolet directly stimulates the production of melanin by melanocytes: the higher the radiation intensity and the longer the exposure, the stronger the pigmentation of the skin. But the formation of persistent hyperpigmentation is impossible without a violation of the antioxidant status of the skin. For a long time after the end of hyperinsolation, the natural color of the skin is restored on its own, however, its antioxidant status gradually decreases, and in some areas the pigment begins to linger longer, and then completely ceases to disappear. This type of hyperpigmentation is called “solar lentigo” and is also treatable and preventable.

How to influence lentigo

At the first step to rid the client of hyperpigmentation melanogenesismust be under control. To do this, the cosmetologist has in his arsenal procedures and tools, which include tyrosinase blockers.

The second stage of the treatment will be work on pigmentation balancing: lightening/whitening and healing. At this stage, AHA acids will be the most effective means in the cosmetologist's arsenal, and preparations to restore the antioxidant capabilities of the skin, lipid metabolism and barrier function will be an indispensable tool in the processes of tissue regeneration. Now let's talk in more detail about each stage and its “protagonists”.

Tyrosinase blockers are substances that block the hyperactivity of melanocytes. Age spots appear due to the intense interaction of tyrosine (amino acids) and tyrosinase (an enzyme that catalyzes the first stage of melanin synthesis). The most important role in the treatment of lentigo is played by biologically active substances, affecting the suppression of melanin production and its destruction in the cells of the epidermis. Active tyrosinase blockers include: extract of mulberries (mulberry) and badan thick-leaved, glabridin, as well as kojic and phytic acids.

The most famous blocker is arbutin (hydroquinone glycoside). It is found in the leaves of bearberry, wintergreen and licorice root. Arbutin is identical to vaccinin - a bitter substance, first extracted from lingonberry leaves. The vaccine does not cause skin irritation and does not have a photosensitizing effect, which allows it to be used for a long time.

By blocking tyrosinase, it is possible to slow down the formation of melanin for an extended period of time in areas of hyperpigmentation and remove old, excess melanin that is usually trapped and accumulated in the upper layers of the epidermis.

Alpha hydroxy acids are most commonly used for treatment of acne, dry skin, actinic keratosis and to improve skin color and texture. However, AHAs are also actively used to treat hyperpigmentation of various etiologies.

Low concentrations of AHA promote exfoliation by breaking the bonds between corneocytes and stimulate the growth of new cells in the basal layer, while high concentrations of AHAs give epidermolysis and removal of melanin from the basal layer. Alpha hydroxy acids act as stimulators of the basement membrane, which is the producer of new skin cells. Under the action of AHA acids, the dermis thickens and the epidermis thins, the stratum corneum acquires elasticity and firmness.

The undisputed leader among alpha hydroxy acids in the matter of whitening age spots is glycolic acid: it improves the outflow of sebum, causes exfoliation of keratinized scales covering the skin. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight and easily penetrates the skin, which allows it to produce the most noticeable effect. Outdoor products based on glycolic acid are used during the period with low solar activity, from October to April. In the sunny period, it is better to use home remedies with antioxidants and photoprotectors. Contains glycolic acid in green grapes and sugar cane.

Antioxidants. The formation of persistent hyperpigmentations is associated with a decrease in the antioxidant capacity of the skin in a certain area. The main antioxidant of the skin is hyaluronic acid. It is part of the skin and is involved in tissue regeneration. With excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation, inflammation occurs - sunburn, while the synthesis of hyaluronic acid stops in the cells of the dermis and the rate of its decay increases. Due to its high content in extracellular matrices, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in tissue hydrodynamics, cell migration and proliferation processes, and also participates in a number of interactions with cell surface receptors.

Hyaluronic acid and proteoglycan, combined with the action of natural active ingredients, affect the production of melanin, and after 30-40 days of daily use, age spots become noticeably lighter, the skin acquires an even color, smoothes and looks radiant and healthy. To restore the antioxidant status, not only the external application of antioxidants is indicated, but also procedures that stimulate the synthesis of one's own hyaluronic acid. Vitamins C and E play a huge role in restoring the natural regeneration of the skin. They stimulate the synthesis of collagen, protect the skin from infections and the appearance of new age spots.

An excellent helper in skin restoration is oat protein, which promotes the healing of microcracks, eliminates itching and irritation, and supports the whitening effect of active ingredients. Jojoba oil optimizes lipid metabolism, restores the barrier function of the skin, softens it, relieves tension and irritation, mulberry extract inhibits tyrosinase, and niacinamide improves the barrier function of the skin and vascular function, inhibits the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes. Turmeric Extract - Curcumin is a safe and effective skin lightener. Kojic acid contains melanin inhibitors that block tyrosinase.

In cosmeceuticals, there are often examples when certain components have a complex effect. For example, the extract of emblica officinalis effectively fights the appearance of age spots and has a long-term antioxidant effect. And licorice extract acts as a powerful antioxidant, tyrosinase blocker and has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect.

When choosing an effective anti-pigmentation technique, it is important to take into account the presence of anti-inflammatory drugs and components (both in the protocol itself and in long-term home care products), a complex of complementary antioxidants.

In addition, it is necessary to pay attention to the severity of exfoliation aggression in the technique or its trauma (the possibility of burns, thermal damage), as well as the possibilities of a daytime remedy, but not only the parameters of the filters, but also the antioxidants, moisturizers, soothing and cooling agents, non-toxic depigmenting agents.

Vitamin C. Cosmetics with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C) brightens the skin, radically solving pigmentation problems: it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing the synthesis of melanin from tyrosine, and also slows down the transfer of pigment to skin keratinocytes.

Lentigo may return, how to warn

The process of removing age spots can look quite simple. But this ease is adjacent to a high risk of not only returning the problem, but also its amplification. After all, to remove hyperpigmentation, the cosmetologist somehow resorts to severe skin damage and a sharp increase in the number of free radicals, which, in turn, provokes inflammatory skin reactions and, as a result, the development of hyperpigmentation. In order to reduce the risk of re-pigmentation, therapy aimed at restoring the antioxidant status and reducing melanin production is recommended.

A patient with lentigo of undetermined etiology should be referred to the appropriate specialist, a dermatologist-oncologist. Without establishing the good quality of age spots, starting whitening therapy is inappropriate, and sometimes harmful.

But even if you get a stable result, you should not rejoice at the complete victory over the lentigo. Already next spring, your clients may again face hyperpigmentation problems. And we are talking not only about solar lentigo, but also about age and hereditary forms.

To prevent an unpleasant relapse, you should help the client to correct their behavior in the sun and provide instructions for choosing home cosmetics and sunscreens. Stay in direct sunlight should be reduced - or transfer the tanning time from 9 to 11 and from 17 to 19 hours. In this way, you can minimize the harmful effects of the sun and protect yourself from unpleasant skin reactions.

For those with sensitive or very fair skin, even on winter days, use products with UV filters, reflective particles and a dense texture. Cosmetics should also be introduced into everyday home care, which improves the barrier function of the skin and vascular function, inhibits the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes.

Special attention should be paid to areas of the skin where specific melasmas have previously manifested, and products with herbal ingredients that actively affect melanogenesis should be used.

According to the materials of the site allseason.ru