Time factor: menopause

The problem of skin aging is the main issue of modern cosmetology. In search of the source of eternal youth, the largest amount of research and development is born. Particularly high interest is shown in developments that can delay the withering of the skin of the face. But it is important for a cosmetologist to remember that the aging of the body – this is a process that includes all organs and systems, and therefore it is necessary to select for each patient an individual set of procedures that can slow down the fading of the skin. , water-electrolyte metabolism. The speed and degree of skin aging is individual and variable, as it is formed under the influence of a complex of factors. At the same time, the aging of the skin and the body occurs in accordance with the genotype of each person. The most important factor in the fading of the skin and the body as a whole is the hormonal status.

The state of hormonal metabolism directly depends on the level of hormones in the blood and target cells of the skin. Functional cells of the epidermis and dermis - keratinocytes and fibroblasts - are estrogen-dependent. Therefore, the most active signs of aging appear in women during menopause, when the level of sex hormones decreases significantly.

The skin is the target organ for sex steroids, and the onset of the perimenopausal period is a definite boundary between skin aging and aging. By the beginning of menopause, the activity of skin cells, their ability to synthesize, restore and divide is already reduced. Simultaneously with a pronounced change in hormonal regulation, the number of cells with an active function also decreases. At the same time, the activity of cells in the production of substances that destroy the structure of the dermis remains high for a long time, but insufficient for the natural death of damaged cells. The signal to stimulate new, full-fledged cells is not received or is too weak. Estrogen-deficient hormonal aging and skin involution set in.

What tasks should a cosmetologist set for himself, how can he help a woman during this period?

The task of a cosmetologist is to support the ability of the skin to renew, exude, hygroscopicity and retain moisture, the ability to heal wounds, fully perform functions, improve microcirculation and metabolism, support muscle function.

What can I advise a patient going through a difficult period in her life, how to help her cope with a complete restructuring of the body and maintain youthful skin?

In the menopause, due to a decrease in the amount of estrogen, large changes occur in the synthesis of collagen and elastin, and a decrease in blood microcirculation is also observed. To restore the collagen-elastin lattice, several procedures can be offered.

Mesotherapy. The procedure will help "nourish" the skin with ready-made cocktails based on hyaluronic acid and amino acids, activates blood circulation, improves metabolic processes and skin nutrition, stimulates cell renewal and the production of new collagen, and increases the protective

functions of the skin.

RF-lifting: allows you to "fold" the old, modified collagen and create a young collagen-elastin lattice.

With the help of fractional photothermolysis, a new skin skeleton is formed, rejuvenating processes are launched in the deep layers of the dermis; outwardly, this manifests itself in an increase in skin elasticity, narrowing of pores, alignment of texture and color, reduction of wrinkles.

In addition to complex procedures, the correct selection of cosmetics for skin care is also important. Estrogens play a special role in slowing down the aging process of the skin. Under their influence, there is an increase in the content of moisture-soluble collagen in the skin, stimulation of melanogenesis, vasodilation and increased blood flow. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to products containing phytoestrogens, and using them as an accompaniment to hormone replacement therapy during menopause. They provide a thickening of the dermis, a decrease in hyperkeratosis, an improvement in the vascularization of the structure of collagen and elastin fibers, a decrease in the width and depth of wrinkles.

During menopause, the level of estrogens decreases, which negatively affects the skin: it loses moisture, elasticity, regeneration decreases, mimic wrinkles appear, the amount of subcutaneous fat decreases, the skin becomes thinner, hyperpigmentation appears. Estrogens can significantly improve skin quality.

For these purposes, preparations with hyaluronic acid, vitamins A, C, E and vitamins of group B are used. Biorevitalization with hyaluronic acid provides deep hydration, improves skin microcirculation, stimulates collagen production, thereby improving skin tone and turgor.

Ingredients of products for aging skin

A cosmetologist, working with a patient in this age category, must remember the following: regulation, trophism, immunity and intensity of metabolic processes in the skin decrease, it becomes sensitive to any stress.

Professional cosmetics for aging skin, must contain the following components:

1. Antioxidants.

Thioctic (alpha-lipoic) acid is an antioxidant, 400 times more powerful than vitamin C; the only antioxidant that remains active in both water and oil; “reconstructs” vitamins C, E, vitamins of group B; protects collagen from free radicals.

Phytic acid is an antioxidant with brightening properties; blocks the flow of iron and copper, which prevents the synthesis of melanin; dissolves intercellular bonds, which contributes to the exfoliation of the upper layers of the epidermis and improves its permeability.

Lycopene stimulates “uniform” formation of layers of the epidermis, improves skin color, makes it more receptive to the effects of anti-aging ingredients.

Dimentyl MEA in combination with alpha-lipoic acid improves and accelerates the penetration of ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin, fixes on the protein cytoplasmic membrane and provides multi-level skin rejuvenation.

2. Prohormones

Melatonin - promotes skin relaxation, thus ensuring maximum penetration of active ingredients, increases energy production and thus promotes skin rejuvenation.

Combined oral contraceptives or wonderful hormone therapy: what to choose Prasterone is a powerful prohormone that stimulates the skin's natural anti-aging mechanism. Increases the action of growth hormone. Strengthens the ability of the immune system to resist invisible skin infection and prevents the destruction of collagen fibers.

Advice on the use of menopausal therapy for rejuvenation from obstetrician-gynecologist of the first category, dermatovenereologist Nina Shavrina

3. Muscle relaxants

The dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzibimide diacetate blocks neuromuscular contraction, thereby reducing the severity of mimic wrinkles and preventing the formation of new ones.

Acetyl Glutamyl Hexapeptide-3 prevents the release of acetylcholine from the nerve and vacuoles, thus preventing muscle contraction, especially around the eyes.

When offering drugs to the patient, we must remember that they should not weigh down the skin and that they should be comfortable.

Among the components of cosmetic products used both in salon procedures and for home care, antioxidants, hydrants, elastostimulators, activators of physiological skin regeneration, biostimulants of metabolic processes, phytoestrogens and capillary protectors play an important role in reducing the manifestations of skin aging.

Let's dwell on each group in a little more detail:

• Antioxidants act as a free radical scavenger. The most effective in anti-aging therapy is a complex of antioxidants, vitamins A, C, E and B vitamins.

• Hydrating agents help maintain normal skin moisture levels. These can be substances that absorb moisture from the air (glycerin, sorbitol, lactic acid, sodium lactate), gel-forming substances (hyaluronic acid, chitosan, polyvinyl polymers), substances that form a moisture-retaining film (vaseline and vaseline oil, paraffin, animal and vegetable waxes , fatty alcohols), as well as fat-soluble substances capable of not only creating a continuous water-retaining film, but also being introduced into the intercellular “cement” (unsaturated fatty acids, ceramides, phospholipids, steroidal alcohols and esters, lanolin).

Activators of physiological skin regeneration start the mechanism of replenishing the exfoliated layer with new cells.
• Biostimulators of metabolic processes in the skin, such as coenzyme Q10, energy drinks, perfluorocarbons, herbal extracts, are also indispensable in anti-aging therapy.

• Phytoestrogens are plant bioflavonoids, they are able to inhibit the degradation of collagen. To stimulate the synthesis of procollagen by fibroblasts, biostimulants, growth factor regulators, and matrikines are required. The difficulty is that not all phytoestrogens are able to realize these properties when applied externally, that they are effective only with a large percentage of administration, require high purification and multiple concentrations, and therefore acquire a fairly bright color.

• Capillary protectors (vitamin C, rutin, extracts of hawthorn, horse chestnut, green tea, grape seeds) improve vascular permeability, elasticity of their walls, stimulate lymph flow and eliminate congestion.

In addition to properly selected products and programs, the beautician must explain to the patient what is happening with her skin, tell her about proper care and changes that should be made in everyday life in order to maintain and improve skin condition during menopause.

Gentle exfoliants should be used one to three times per week. This remedy is prescribed taking into account the degree of skin atrophy.

Be sure to use masks three times a week that improve blood flow and metabolism, hydrating and nourishing.

Many patients, noticing sharp negative changes in the skin condition, often resort to radical measures offered by plastic surgery. However, they need to be warned that during this period any interventions of this kind will be most difficult to tolerate by the body, and the effect of them will be lower than expected. The deterioration of the barrier properties and trophism of the skin in menopause leads to a deterioration in wound healing, increased sensitivity. With aggressive procedures, the recovery period is worse, the risk of infection increases, and funds are required to maintain a high level of regeneration.

Alternatively, the patient can be offered photorejuvenation sessions, when wrinkles, vascular disorders, hyperpigmentation are eliminated under the action of high-energy light beams, skin texture is restored.

The arsenal of aesthetic medicine also includes botulinum toxin injections, gels for contour plastics, preparations from donor dermis, cultured skin cells and stem cells, and many more. others

However, it should be understood that even such measures will not make time stop if skin care is not comprehensive and regular.

According to the materials of the site allseason.ru