Topical retinoids for the correction of aesthetic skin imperfections

Age-related changes in the skin are the result of exposure to factors (genetic, exogenous, hormonal, metabolic). Photoaging associated with ultraviolet radiation leads to thickening and roughening of the stratum corneum, its dryness, the manifestation of a vascular pattern and massive elastosis.

Chronoaging, which is a genetically predetermined process, leads to thinning of the epidermis, a decrease in the number of cells important for maintaining youthful skin, an increase in the size of keratinocytes, impaired microcirculation and a change in the ratio of ceramides.

The processes of photo- and chrono-aging are superimposed on each other, resulting in accelerated skin aging. However, there is an effective way to slow down this process – use of topical retinoids.

Invisible changes that lead to signs of aging

Regardless of the type of skin aging, there are several basic changes that occur at the cellular level and largely determine the appearance of the first wrinkles and other aesthetic imperfections of the skin.

1. Dermal fibroblasts increase in size with age, acquire a flatter shape and become rigid. This age-related degeneration of fibroblasts leads to:

• the rate of fibroblast migration to the focus of inflammation or damage is reduced;
• contact of fibroblasts with collagen of the extracellular matrix is ​​difficult.

2. Collagen degradation is a consequence of the activation of factor AP-1 in fibroblasts, which increases the expression of matrix metalloproteinases MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-3, because:

• the amount of procollagen types I and III decreases;
• collagen becomes more rigid;
• collagen fibrils are randomly oriented;
• an irreversible modification of collagen occurs due to the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs).

With age, the synthetic activity and viscoelastic properties of fibroblasts decrease, the homeostasis of the collagen matrix is ​​disturbed, and the activity of matrix metalooproteinases that destroy collagen fibers increases.

Topical retinoids: routes of entry and mechanism of action in the skin

Retinode – derivatives of vitamin A of natural and synthetic origin, which are distinguished by lipophilicity and excellent ability to penetrate the epidermis in two ways:

• transepidermal (directly through the stratum corneum);
• transfollicular (through the excretory ducts of the glands).

Retinoids control:

• keratinization and pigmentation processes in the epidermis;
• Restoration of the intercellular matrix in the dermis.

Topical retinoids used in cosmeceuticals to address a range of cosmetic and dermatological problems (wrinkles, acne, hyperkeratosis, photoaging, etc.):

• retinol esters;
• retinol;
• retinaldehyde;
• oxiretinoids.

The concentration of retinoids in the skin decreases towards the dermis.

The rapid penetration of retinoids into the cell nucleus is achieved with the help of a cellular protein that binds retinoic acid – CRABP.

The action of retinoids in the skin is due to the binding of retinoid receptors (RAR and RXR) to specific DNA regions and the activation of retinoid-specific elements (RRE).

Retinoids change the growth processes of epithelial cells, their differentiation and functional activity.

Types of topical retinoids used in the MEDICARE care program

A special feature of the MEDICARE retinoic care program is the use of the RETINOID CASCADE method, which ensures the action of different activities at different levels of the dermal-epidermal junction.

1. Retinyl palmitate normalizes skin structure and smoothes wrinkles, stimulates collagen synthesis and skin cell renewal. Suitable for mature skin and acne treatment.
2. Retinyl acetate accelerates the process of getting rid of dying cells, increases the level of collagen and elastin in the skin.
3. All-trans retinol helps restore skin density, stimulates collagen synthesis, normalizes skin texture and hydration.

The effect of topical retinoids in the fight against aesthetic skin imperfections

The effect of topical retinoids depends on the activation or inhibition of enzymes responsible for the metabolism of retinoids in the skin.

A feature of MEDICARE cosmeceuticals is the achievement of biological activity of retinoids in the skin when used in much lower concentrations than in drugs. Retinoids are gradually mobilized from epidermal stores.

Learn more: Everything you wanted to know about the non-invasive carboxytherapy procedure. 

According to activity, retinoids are located in  in the following order: trans-retinoic acid → retinaldehyde → retinol → retinol esters  (retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate), and in terms of tolerance – in reverse order.

The use of topical retinoids in the MEDICARE care program allows you to:

1. Reduce the appearance of fine and medium wrinkles by:

• increasing the ability of the epidermis to retain moisture;
• stimulation of the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans;
• stimulation of the synthesis of transforming growth factor beta;
• stimulation of the synthesis of procollagen and collagen.

2. Reduce skin dryness by accelerating epidermal renewal, as retinoic acid increases the expression of genes that accelerate the keratinocyte maturation cycle.
3. Reduce the severity of hyperpigmentation by accelerated epidermal cell renewal and reduced keratinocyte staining.

MEDICARE's Retinoid Care Program combined with non-invasive carboxytherapy provides excellent results – due to the cleansing of the skin from protein metabolites and the increase in its permeability after carboxytherapy, topical retinoids freely penetrate the skin, most effectively stimulating the processes of physiological rejuvenation.

To learn more about topical retinoids and carboxytherapy regimens, visit seminars regularly held by MEDICARE.

Read more: German carboxytherapy - rejuvenation without injections.