Absolutely all people dream of having strong, healthy and beautiful hair. Each of us strives to make his hairstyle look stylish, and his hair – well-groomed. But not many people know how to properly care for their curls so that they do not dry out, do not break or fall out, but look shiny and chic.
Today visiting estet-portal – an expert who will not only be able to answer many of our questions about the beauty of hair, but also has the right to ask – and do we do everything ourselves in order to take care of their health, and advise on how to properly care for our curls.
Bern Mones
world renowned stylist, hair designer,
Head of Hair Studio by Bernd Monés and
training center for hairdressers Orisen (Kharkov)
What is our hair really like? Why do they turn gray and fall out? In what cases can only trimming really help hair? Hair can have many problems, which, nevertheless, can and should be solved. I offer a small list of important terms that can well explain what happens to hair, and which you should know.
Hair development cycle
The hair on the head is in various stages of development. Most (about 80 to 90 percent) are in the growth (anagen) phase. This phase lasts from two to seven years. This is followed by a short transition period (catagen phase) – 2-3 weeks, in which cell production in the hair follicle temporarily stops. The follicles shrink and the hair falls out. Approximately one percent of follicles are always in this transitional stage. In the next phase – rest (telogen) – the hair follicle is regenerated, cell division begins, and a new hair can form. This phase lasts 3-4 months and contains 10 to 20 percent of the hair.
The strength of the hair
A single hair can support at least 100 grams of weight without breaking. Extrapolating this figure to all the hair on the head, it would mean the strength of the hair, able to withstand at least ten tons of stress.
Hair loss
Normal hair loss – This is when a maximum of 30 to 100 hairs per day falls out. Losing more hair can have various causes. Approximately 95 percent of all cases of hair loss are due to a hereditary cause, both in women and men. Often it is – overproduction of male hormones (androgens), the cause may also be the depletion of blood flow to the hair follicles, which form the attachment for the hair.
Hair Volume
The number of hairs depends on their color. Thus, the owners of blond hair have about 150,000 hairs, a black-haired person usually has 110,000 hairs, a brunette and a redhead can boast from 80,000 to 100,000 hairs.
Hair quality
Do we have thick or thin hair – is in our genes. Thin and light hair, having a diameter of 0.04 to 0.06 mm, is typical of Europe. Hair from 0.06 to 0.08 mm thick and from 0.08 to 0.1 mm are considered normal. Asian hair is much thicker than European hair. On average in Asia, the typical thickness of a hair is between 0.08 and 0.12 mm. In addition, European hair is more elliptical in shape, while Asian hair is round and therefore more elastic.
Lifespan
The hair stays on the head for an average of six to eight years, and then it falls out. This period is determined genetically. With severe hair loss, their lifespan can be reduced to three to four years.
Melanin
This is a pigment found in the keratin layer of the hair. Depending on its amount, the hair is darker or lighter. As we age, melanin production decreases, which then leads to gray or white hair. There are two different types of melanin: a little more black-brown – eumelanin pigment and slightly less red-yellow – pheomelanin pigment. All hair colors in the world are made up of various mixtures of these two types of pigment.
Split ends
Split ends refers to split ends that occur more frequently with long hair. The reason is basically – these are mechanical stresses caused by combing, brushing or constant touching of the shoulders. But it must also be emphasized that due to frequent dyeing, bleaching, perm or hot tools such as a hair dryer or flat iron, the hair deteriorates at the ends. Splitting can be stopped or minimized by the use of liquids with ultra-fine silicone oils, at least visually, the hair will look good for some time. Otherwise, if there are severe split ends, scissors often help.
Height
Hair growth is essentially uncontrollable and intensified by outside influences. On the day, hair grows from 0.3 to 0.45 mm, and within a month – from 1 to 1.2 cm.Maximum hair length varies on average from 40 to 80 cm.
Special conditions for hair care
It is always very important to me that the client leaves our salon not only with shiny hair and a neat haircut, not only with well-colored hair and care products that maintain color strength. It is very important to me that the client's hair and scalp are healthy after visiting the salon.
If the client has sensitive or reddened scalp, which often happens from excessive dryness due to stress or nervous tension, I prepare a mixture of 40 ml of water and 15 ml of mild shampoo and gently massage it into the scalp with massage movements, with a little pressure on the skin for 20 minutes. Usually, after such a procedure, neither irritation nor redness remains on the skin.
When forming dandruff scales, you need to make a similar mixture, but with a deep cleansing shampoo. You will notice that after a few minutes the foam will become more and more – and sticky and creamy. But after 20 minutes, the head will be completely clean. If you carry out such a procedure 2 times a month, dandruff rarely returns again. But with very strong dandruff formation, you need to see a doctor.
I once had a client who complained that because of skin irritation on the back of her head, she couldn't afford coloring, and later it turned out that it was a tumor. Fortunately, everything ended well for her. But a little later a woman came to me who had a very similar skin irritation and was sure it was due to a nervous breakdown. I plucked up courage and recommended that she clarify the cause of irritation with the doctor, since I already had a similar case. It was indeed a rapidly growing tumor, and our attention to her skin helped to successfully manage the disease at a very early stage. I always insist that the skin and hair of the client in the salon should be treated very carefully, and healed professionally.
Hair care tips from Bern Mones
I would like to give you some tips on how to quickly and efficiently provide good hair care without using expensive products that are not always available in Ukraine today.
Tip 1: Dull or brittle hair
If your hair has lost its shine or your hair breaks easily, then your body may be deficient in vitamin A. Our body needs this vitamin to strengthen the structure of the skin and hair, and their good functioning. Good suppliers of vitamin A: liver, egg yolk, milk, cheese, butter. Beta-carotene, which your body extracts from vitamin A through fat, is found in carrots, broccoli, spinach, lettuce, cabbage, red peppers, beets, dill, apricots.
Tip 2: Preserve brittle hair
In brittle hair is a risk to keep it – they hang limply. Agents with positively charged polymers -– for example, oats or wheat proteins - target negatively charged weak spots in the hair and close small holes in the hair shaft. Thanks to this magnetic effect, the hair will receive help only where it needs it.
Tip 3: Basic hair strengthening
For weak and permanently brittle hair, regular scalp massage is recommended. With your fingertips, you stimulate blood circulation and activate the sebaceous glands, which ensures the maintenance of healthy hair and good hair growth. Special lotions for the scalp will make this process even more effective.
Tip 4: Take good care of dry hair
If the hair is so dry that it feels like straw, it is contraindicated for additional stress drying with a hot hair dryer. It is recommended to dry such hair only with a warm stream of air or use a special hair dryer with an infrared sensor.
Tip 5: Gentle Shampoo
Wet hair is very vulnerable, as the keratin scales on the surface of the hair are open like pine cones. By injecting a spoonful of conditioner before washing your hair, you will make the shampoo less leached and save your hair from damage.
Tip 6: Shine for curly hair
Curly hair tends to be dimmer than straight hair because light reflects unevenly on it. Strengthening treatments and the use of conditioners bring energy and shine to such hair.
Tip 7: massage for dandruff
Oil massage will improve the condition of the scalp, since vegetable oils contain a large amount of vitamin E, and it is useful to rub them into the skin. Special anti-dandruff products, such as shampoos, lotions or creams, are recommended to be applied to the scalp, while skin cell renewal slows down and there is a calming effect. If there is no improvement within 2-6 weeks, a doctor should be consulted.
Tip 8: Hair volume
You will get more volume when styling your hair if you blow-dry it, shaping it with your hands, and only at the end of drying use a brush to style the ends inside.
Tip 9: hair and nutrition
Strong, healthy hair grows only on a healthy scalp. This requires, above all, vitamins and minerals. Hair roots can only be healthy and strong with a balanced diet (rich in vitamin C, biotin, zinc, iron and folic acid), then they become strong and the hair is quickly restored. Suppliers of the most necessary, vital substances for hair – these are fruits, fish, poultry, green leafy vegetables, milk, soy and whole grains.
Tip 10: Hair Conditioner
It's a mistake to assume that the longer you leave the conditioner on your hair while rinsing it, the better the care effect you will get. Enhancers from conditioners add shine and make hair easier to comb – but they do not penetrate the hair, but only envelop it. Therefore, the exposure time of the conditioner on the hair is up to 1 minute – this is enough.
Tip 11: For oily hair
The hair is washed with a mild shampoo or baby shampoo as often as needed. When washing your hair, try not to massage your scalp too much, as this stimulates excessive sebum production. Between the use of detergents, you can degrease your hair by wrapping a comb with gauze or a cotton layer, and comb your hair in this way. You can also blot your scalp with a tissue soaked in a facial toner designed for oily skin.
Tip 12: Cleaning the right way
Before washing your hair, it is advisable to brush it well, especially if a lot of styling products, such as gel or spray, have been used to shape the hairstyle. Most of these products are easily removed from the hair with special brushes and brushes. With regular hair washing, there is usually no need to reapply detergents, unless, of course, the hair has been styled with a lot of wax. A normal amount of shampoo is enough. Huge mountains of foam do not improve the effectiveness of hair cleansing. It is very important to rinse your hair properly: do it thoroughly and not with too hot water, because the higher the temperature of the water, the more stress on the hair.
Tip 13: Shine and soft hair
Long hair usually requires special attention, and for them you can offer treatment with olive oil, which will give it shine, make it smooth. After washing, warm olive oil should be applied to still damp hair, distributing it along the entire length and especially thoroughly lubricating the tips with it. Leave the oil on your hair for at least half an hour. You can enhance the warm effect of the oil by wrapping the strands with aluminum foil, then the effect of hair care will be much stronger. Try not to wash off the oil until your hair no longer looks greasy. An intense hair mask that works very well can be made by mixing warm oil with egg yolk, a little liquid honey and lemon juice, and then beat the mixture well.
Tip 14: How to choose the right brush
It is very important for hair health to have intact combs and brushes. Test: run a brush or comb along the back of your hand – the comb should not leave scratches. Rub it, the hair should not be attracted to it. The bristles of the brush should be soft and round or have round tips. When combing, the tips of the comb should always touch the scalp with round, not sharp edges. There should be no pressure on the brush when combing. Important: brushes and combs should be washed regularly with shampoo and hot water to remove microorganisms.
Tip 15: More Styling Stability
Despite painstaking efforts in drying the hair, the voluminous hairstyle is quickly destroyed. But there is a trick that helps to give the hair more stability. We dry the hair, and then comb it with applying a certain amount of mousse in several approaches. Separate the upper part and start styling from the bottom layer of hair. We work with two round brushes: one of them is always left in the hair to cool, while the next strand is styled and dried with the other brush.
Tip 16: Styling your hair without washing
With the help of special lotions – so-called air fresheners – you can restore perfect shape to tired curls or dull strands. True, it works for a short time. Spray freshener on dry hair – strand by strand, blow-dry each strand, allowing it to cool a little on the hand.
Tip 17: Hair and Static
Dry indoor air, especially where synthetic carpeting is present, or when rubbing a comb against hair, for example, can generate an electrostatic charge. In this case, the hair repels each other and takes off. If you use combs made of natural wood or horn material, then this effect can be avoided. Flying hair can be brought under control with a little hairspray. Just spray some polish on the palm of your hand and run it through your hair.
Part 2 of exclusive tips from Bern Mones will be published in the Experts section on 12/12/14. Follow our updates!
Source estet-portal.com
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