Советы косметолога: как избавиться от пигментных пятен и защитить кожу от гиперпигментации

After a period of vacations, the flow of patients who complain of a violation of pigmentation of the face and body is increasing at cosmetologists. The appearance of age spots during the season of increased sun activity is primarily due to the fact that we do not follow the simple rules for protecting the skin from ultraviolet exposure. However, the causes of pigmentation disorders can be much more serious, as well as the consequences of neglecting skin health.

In the article estet-portal.com, a cosmetologist, Ph.D., author of the “New Face in an Hour” technique Maria Shirshakova raises the actual topic of hyperpigmentation and talks about effective methods to prevent this problem. 

Why do pigmentation disorders appear and what treatment does the doctor prescribe 

Pigmentation has been the subject of many studies, publications, scientific papers. This suggests that this problem has not been fully studied. There are many questions that have not yet been answered. 

First of all, it is worth noting that the patient and the doctor see hyperpigmentation differently. For the patient pigmentation – it is just a dark spot on the skin, which can and should be quickly removed with a cream or a single laser procedure. For the doctor pigmentation – it is a whole class of different states. The appearance of a spot on the forehead can be preceded by a whole story that can lead the patient to the office, gynecologist, endocrinologist and even nephrologist – the spectrum of causes of hyperpigmentation is so wide. 

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For example, the appearance of age spots may be associated with taking drugs or certain foods: 

  • tetracyclines; 
  • diuretics; 
  • St. John's wort and other herbs; 
  • celery; 
  • fig. 

The causes of hyperpigmentation are divided into two groups – exogenous (external) and endogenous (internal). 

 

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The most common exogenous cause of hyperpigmentation is tanning abuse or inadequate radiation protection. The impact of this factor has a cumulative effect and leads not only to the appearance of age spots, but also to premature aging of the skin – dryness, sagging, wrinkles. 

Skin pigmentation: beauty trend or actual problem 

Chronic inflammation of the skin leads to the development of secondary hyperpigmentation, for example, after acne. 

The tendency to develop hypermelanoses is genetically. Therefore, it is possible to calculate the risk of age spots and timely adjust the patient's lifestyle based on the results of a genetic test. In my practice, I use Mesopharm Gentest for these purposes. If hyperpigmentation tendencies are detected, I prescribe supplements to my patients, such as Astaxanthin, Betaron, Heliocare ultra-d, etc. These supplements are safe and can be taken all summer. 

Contrary to popular belief, tanning does not eliminate, but enhances hyperpigmentation. 

Basic rules for safe tanning: 

  • stay in the sun during the period of its least activity (between 11 am and 4 pm it is better not to sunbathe); 
  • put a hat on your head; 
  • apply sunscreens in accordance with the instructions and always on clean skin of the face, neck, décolleté and other exposed areas of the body; 
  • observe drinking regimen; 
  • moisturize the skin after sun exposure with products containing aloe and panthenol. 

Endogenous causes of hyperpigmentation include: 

  • hormonal changes;  
  • stress; 
  • chronic diseases. 

Very often age spots appear after pregnancy and lactation. This is melasma. It can be superficial (epidermal) – dark brown patches that are much easier to remove than other types of melasma. Dermal – deeper melasma is blue-gray and difficult to treat. Often there is a mixed type of melasma. If the cause of hyperpigmentation is a hormonal imbalance, the treatment of age spots will be long, it is carried out with the participation of a gynecologist-endocrinologist. 

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The dramatic increase in cortisol levels that is characteristic of stress can lead to pigmentation disorders. In this case, efforts should be directed primarily to stress reduction. 

What is the basis of the approach to the treatment of hyperpigmentation 

To successfully treat hyperpigmentation, it is important to correctly identify the cause of the disorder and work in a comprehensive manner. As far as procedures are concerned, a combined effect is often required. Under the pigment spot are the vessels that feed it. Therefore, when working with devices, it is important to act not only on melanin, but also on blood vessels. 

If the pigment spot rises above the skin, has black inclusions, is bumpy, increases in size – consult a dermatologist immediately. 

In addition to procedures aimed at lightening hyperpigmentation, it is important: 

  • adjust sleep mode; 
  • avoid stress; 
  • replenish micronutrient deficiencies; 
  • Ensure proper skin protection. 

How to protect the skin from the appearance or increase of age spots (H2) 

The appearance of age spots can also be associated with some cosmetic procedures. Thus, due to the high risk of hyperpigmentation in summer, it is not recommended to carry out medium and deep peels, laser procedures, and use deep-acting dermarollers. 

 

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The following are aimed at combating age spots and preventing them: 

  • biorevitalization with the addition of vitamins C, E, succinic acid; 
  • VDD; 
  • DMAE; 
  • PRP. 

Any moisturizing treatments are good for the skin in summer. Injection procedures must be carried out using sparing techniques to avoid the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 

Read also: How to effectively get rid of cellulite and local fat deposits – doctor's advice I do not recommend using products with hydroquinone, high retinol and benzoyl peroxide.  Sun protection

 

Sunscreens have their pros and cons.

Benefits include: 

improving the reflective properties of the skin;  reducing the load on cell DNA, preventing mutation and aging;

 
  • softening and moisturizing the skin. 
  • Cons:
  •  

obstruction of vitamin D synthesis;  reduced blood circulation and skin nutrition.

 
  • It is important to remember:
  •  

Apply 2.5g (half a teaspoon) to face to achieve SPF protection as indicated on package;  if you apply different products with SPF on the skin (foundation, powder, etc.), the degree of their protection is not cumulative;

 
  • be sure to apply the cream not only on the face, but also on the neck, décolleté and other exposed areas of the body; 
  • wash your face before reapplying sunscreen to your skin. 
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What should be stated on

sunscreen packaging: UVA, UVB, IR, UVA-1, VIS protection. It is very good if the cream includes 7-dehydrocholesterol – it is a vitamin D precursor that helps the body produce vitamin D even when sunscreen is applied. 

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