Chemical peels using hydroxy acids firmly hold the position of the most popular cosmetic procedures. These acids do an excellent job of cleansing the skin and fight hyperpigmentation, are part of moisturizing and anti-aging preparations. However, AHA acids have an irritating effect, albeit a slight one. Therefore, such peels are not always suitable for sensitive skin and have seasonal restrictions. Similar properties, but without an irritating factor, have polyhydroxy acids (PHA) – lactobionic and gluconolactone. Read more about their action at estet-portal.com.
What are polyhydroxy acids, and what peeling effect can be expected from them
Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) – this is essentially the alpha hydroxy acid familiar to us, but it contains not one, but several hydroxyl groups. Lactobionic acid is synthesized from oxidized milk sugar, while gluconolactone is obtained from oxidized glucose. Both of these sugar acids are characteristic of the human body and are therefore favorably perceived by the skin. Like AHA peels, procedures with polyhydroxy acids have demonstrated the ability to slow down the aging process of the skin, actively work as moisturizing agents.
What is the special effect of peeling with polyhydroxy acids
The differences between peels with AHA acids and PHA acids are based on the number of hydroxyl groups, which affects the properties of the substance. AHA acids have one such group, and peels cause a tingling, burning sensation when applied. PHA acids have several hydroxyl groups, and this causes the absence of irritation during their application. It is believed that the larger molecules of lactobionic acid and gluconolactone penetrate the skin more slowly than alpha hydroxy acids and cause less inflammatory reactions. Peelings with PHA acids are easily tolerated even by very sensitive skin, with manifestations of allergies, with rosacea.
Along with the absence of irritation, polyhydroxy acid peels improve cell turnover, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and allow you to achieve smooth and elastic, clean and fresh skin.
PHA acid peels are known for their antioxidant properties. What do they depend on
One of the sources of free radicals in the skin – These are oxidation reactions of iron molecules under the action of ultraviolet radiation. These same free radicals provoke the formation of excess iron in the skin cells, which is involved in the appearance of hyperpigmentation. PHA acids are able to chelate (trap) excess iron molecules in the skin, making it biologically inactive and preventing its ability to oxidative damage.
What is the special effect of lactobionic acid peeling
Lactobionic acid is known in medicine as an ingredient in the storage liquid for organs intended for transplantation. It has unique properties to suppress tissue damage by free radicals. And this property is used in the preparation of peeling formulations with lactobionic acid. The substance nourishes the skin and captures all harmful particles that can cause oxidative damage to the skin. That is why peelings with PHA acids have no seasonal restrictions and are available even during active sun.
In addition, lactobionic acid has the unique property of binding water due to its film-forming action.
What are the properties of gluconolactone in peel formulations with PHA acids
Gluconolactone also has strong antioxidant and moisturizing properties. It gently acts on the skin, preventing its irritation. Its special property – nourishing the skin and strengthening the functions of its natural barrier, anti-aging effect on the skin.
Besides the all-season use, which makes PHA acid peels a desirable position in the list of cosmetic procedures, they allow you to have soft, moisturized skin even after cleansing and rejuvenating facial programs, without requiring time for rehabilitation.
See also: Bright, young, fresh: features of peeling with glycolic acid
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