pH кожи: почему это важно практикующему косметологу

The main thing in life – observe harmony and balance in everything. Also in the case of health. Looking at ourselves in the mirror, we want to see healthy, radiant skin without inflammation and bumps.

All this is possible if acid-base balance is maintained and the hydrolipid mantle is preserved. care cosmetics, regular procedures in the morning and evening, phased cleansing.

Let's find out on estet-portal.com, how pH balance works from the inside and why this nuance is so important for a cosmetologist.

Hydrolipid mantle: structure, composition, functions

The top layer of our skin – epidermis – it is a protective barrier, a kind of "shield" that protects the skin from mechanical and chemical damage, exposure to allergens, bacteria and viruses.

It consists of several layers:

  • horny;
  • brilliant;
  • grainy;
  • spiky;
  • basal.

 

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Read also: pH skin balance: how to keep it at a normal level

When it comes to the hydrolipid mantle, we are most interested in the stratum corneum. It consists of horny scales – corneocytes. They are securely interconnected, thanks to fats and protein compounds - desmosomes, which provide their protective function. 

 

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The stratum corneum is covered on the outside by a hydrolipid mantle, or the Marchionini mantle. It contains the secret of the sebaceous and sweat glands, the microflora of the skin and horny scales that have exfoliated. Due to the acidic environment on the surface of the skin – pH 4 – 5.5 - also known as acid mantle.

Sebum contains a mixture of lipids:

  • glycerides;
  • free fatty acids;
  • wax and cholesterol esters;
  • equal;
  • cholesterol.
Sebum plays the role of a lubricant for the stratum corneum, prevents moisture loss, bacteria from entering the body and protects against damage by an acidic or alkaline environment.

Read also: Skin acidity speaks volumes: the importance of pH value

Sweat secretion also plays an important role in our hydrolipidic mantle. Sweat consists of:

  • products of mineral metabolism, such as phosphates, calcium chloride, sulfate compounds and calcium salts;
  • protein metabolism products – lactic acid, ammonia, amino acids, urea;
  • fatty acids.

pH of sweat is 3.8 – 6.2, which in turn provides skin bactericidal action and protection against microbial growth and inflammation development.

pH balance vs facial skin type

There are four types of skin depending on the amount of sebum secreted and acid-base balance:

  • normal;
  • dry;
  • fatty;
  • combined.

 

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Normal skin is characterized by moderate sebum secretion, no visible pores, vessels do not show through the surface.

With this type of skin and maintaining the acid-base balance, there are no conditions for the development of inflammation, the skin tone is even. The pH of normal skin is 5.2 – 5.7.

Dry skin needs special care, as the sebaceous glands do not produce enough secretions. Yes, the skin at first glance looks smooth and matte, but if there is no proper care, keratinized scales and peeling can be seen on the surface. Dry skin pH is 3.0 – 5.2.

Sector prize on the reel – it is oily skin. Owners of this skin type usually have in their arsenal several series of skin care cosmetics to eliminate oily sheen, control sebum production, narrow pores and prevent inflammation.

The skin is shiny, feels rough, and if left untreated can look like an orange peel. Such skin gets dirty faster and is prone to acne. Oily skin pH is 5.7 – 7.5.

 

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With the combined type, there are both oily and dry skin areas on the face.

The forehead, nose and chin can be attributed to an area prone to oiliness, and the temples, the skin around the eyes, the cheeks – to dryness.

Read also: How pH affects the effectiveness of skin care products

Each of the skin types requires certain care in the morning and evening to maintain a normal pH. This shouldbe taken into account by every practicing cosmetologist if he wants to help and not harm with his work. 

Microbiome: friend or foe when maintaining normal skin pH

On the surface of our skin throughout the body, millions of microorganisms live peacefully with us. They do not cause problems and calmly perform their duties as tenants, in gratitude for the housing.

These little helpers that protect us, are involved in providing the same hydro-lipid mantle, local immunity.  

Opportunistic pathogens, fungi, and mites also live on the skin. When maintaining a normal pH balance of the skin, we do not even suspect their presence.

As soon as the acid breaks – alkaline balance, problems begin. Acne is one of them.

Read also: Skin cleansing for various dermatological problems

 

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Thus, the normal pH of the skin is the very foundation, upon destruction of which the whole house will collapse. A good beautician should not forget about providing a nutrient medium for residents - good microorganisms that act as our helpers. It is very important to convey to people that soap and water – absolutely not a guarantee of clean and healthy skin.

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