In order to use synthetic retinoid preparations in the field of cosmetology, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of their influence, since retinol provides physiological processes in the skin.
Retinol is carried by the cell, then it binds to the nuclear proteins involved in the expression of individual ones. Both forms of vitamin A are involved in many biological functions of the skin.
Read the most up-to-date methods of use of retinoids in acne and processes caused by photoaging on our estet-portal.com.
Retinoids for acne
The prescription of these drugs for acne is based on the proven fact of local vitamin A deficiency in skin cells and sebaceous glands (sebocytes) in people with acne. The result of this deficiency is an accelerated division of skin cells and a violation of the synthetic processes in sebocytes, which leads to blockage of the hair follicles, often in combination with an inflammatory process.
Topical application of products based on natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A quickly compensates for vitamin deficiency and is therefore effective for acne.
The most commonly used ingredients for cosmetic formulations are:
− dehydrated base or oil phase,
− polysorbate 80 as emulsifier,
− vitamins E and C as antioxidants,
− distilled or deionized water,
− vitamin D,
− plant extracts enriched with antioxidants (ginko biloba, green tea),
− UV filters - zinc oxide and titanium dioxide,
− oils - squalene, shea butter, lanolin, silicone oils.
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In the treatment of acne, the ability of retinoids to control the activity of the sebaceous glands, as well as the growth and differentiation of keratinocytes, is used. In addition, they have anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and immunomodulatory effects, which are extremely important and useful for acne.
The result of regular application of retinoid cosmetics to acne elements is a decrease in sebum production, normalization of the thickness of the stratum corneum, acceleration of exfoliation of dead cells and, as a result, a decrease in the risk of clogging of hair follicles with a sebaceous-horn plug, that is, the fight against existing elements and prevention of formation new rash elements.
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Sequence of drugs in the treatment of acne
In most patients, therapy begins with the use of topical agents. They come in the form of gels, creams, solutions, lotions or ointments that I use on acne.
1) Benzoyl peroxide − has a strong antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect. It is used in various forms of acne, especially in the treatment of comedones - whiteheads and blackheads. The average therapy is 6 weeks.
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2) Topical retinoids. The effectiveness of these drugs is due to their exfoliating effect: retinoids help cleanse dead skin cells and prevent them from accumulating inside the skin pores. Most often, acne is treated with drugs called tretinoin and adapalene, which are in the form of a gel or cream that is applied to the skin of the face once, at night, after washing. Usually, a 6-week duration of treatment with retinoids is sufficient.
There are cases when, after the main course, the doctor recommends further treatment and periodic use of the drug for prevention.
3) Topical antibiotics. Acne is treated with antibiotic preparations that target the bacteria that infect clogged skin pores. These preparations are usually in the form of solutions, lotions or gels. Applicable only when prescribed by a dermatologist.
4) Azelaic acid. The therapeutic effect is associated with its ability to remove dead skin cells and destroy bacteria that cause inflammation. They are usually used for intolerance to benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids.
Retinoids for age-related changes and photoaging
The main manifestation of skin aging is reduced firmness/elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles, associated with the depletion of the dermal layer of the skin. Numerous processes lead to such changes in the dermis, including the activation of enzymes that destroy the collagen and elastin fibers of the dermis (metalloproteinases), and inhibition of the formation of new collagen fibers by fibroblasts.
The effects of retinoids lead to inhibition of the mechanisms that lead to skin aging by stimulating the division and synthetic activity of fibroblasts, as well as stopping the destructive activity of metalloproteinases. In addition, retinoids stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, which also helps to normalize the composition and structure of the dermis and, as a result, increase skin turgor and smooth wrinkles.
With regard to photoaging (aging of the skin as a result of frequent and/or prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation), it is known that it is based on excessive production of abnormal elastin, which replaces dermal collagen. Retinoids inhibit this process by reducing the level of expression of the elastin gene, slowing down the process of photoaging.
In addition to the effect on the dermis, the anti-age effect of retinoids is explained by the ability to control the processes of proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells. Retinoids weaken the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum, making it easier to exfoliate the stratum corneum.
The combination of an exfoliating effect with stimulation of basal cell division promotes rapid renewal of the epidermis.
Possible side effects of synthetic retinoids
Predominantly synthetic retinoid cosmetic products do not cause skin reactions. Some people develop side effects in the form of peeling, flushing of the skin and increased sensitivity to sunlight, but these phenomena are related to the mechanism of action of the drug, they are mild and are temporary.
It is also very important to know the list of conditions in which the use of retinoids is contraindicated. These include pregnancy, as well as concomitant treatment with photosensitizing drugs, including thiazides, tetracyclines, fluoroquinolones, sulfonamides, and certain other groups of drugs.
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