Dry skin of the face: where the problems come from

From the moment of birth, our skin undergoes many changes that we do not like, and it is not always about the manifestations of age in the form of wrinkles. After the elastic velvety of children's cheeks, after the increased fat content and inflammation of adolescence, there comes a time when we begin to deal with dry skin. Most visitors to skin care stores stop at creams and serums for sensitive and dry skin, and in beauty salons they are interested in moisturizing facial treatments. Why do we start to worry about dry skin of the face, due to which its sensitivity increases and what problems this can create, we deal with estet-portal.com.

Epidermal barrier and dry facial skin – is there a dependency

As you know, the protective barrier of our skin, whose task is to protect its deep layers from damage, is the stratum corneum. It consists of dead cells resembling scales – flat, filled with a solid protein substance keratin. These scales are surrounded by a protein-lipid membrane and are interconnected by protein bonds – desmosomes. Rows of horny scales are interspersed with multi-layered lipid layers, consisting of ceramide molecules, cholesterol, free fatty acids.

All lipid layers and horny scales are stitched together and tightly connected into a single structure  strands of fatty acids, forming an epidermal barrier.

Despite its impressive structural order, the epidermal barrier is not as monolithic as it seems. Studies show that, depending on the lipid composition, some areas of the stratum corneum are absolutely impermeable to water and water-soluble substances, and some have a very low density. In addition, there are special water channels that are located between the layers of lipids and serve for limited migration of water and other substances that can dissolve in it.

Therefore, the protective properties of the stratum corneum are not very reliable: moisture can be removed through it and evaporate from the surface of the skin, and foreign substances dissolved in water can get inside. However, here, too, some measures for maintaining moisture are provided: on the surface of the horny scales there are molecules of the so-called natural moisturizing factor (NMF) – hygroscopic amino acids, mineral components, hyaluronic acid. They trap and bind part of the moisture released to the surface of the skin. Why then does dry facial skin occur?

Why is the epidermal barrier broken  and what problems does it cause

When our stratum corneum is undamaged, its scales reflect light evenly, making the skin of the face look fresh and radiant. In addition, a healthy stratum corneum is elastic and soft, it freely bends and stretches following the movements of the skin, due to our facial expressions. If there is little moisture in the stratum corneum, it becomes brittle, hard, forms cracks when moving, and pathogenic microorganisms and irritating substances can penetrate into the skin through these lesions.

From damaged stratum corneum  light reflects randomly, giving the skin a dull tint.

A damaging factor for the stratum corneum is often washing with hard water or the use of aggressive cleansers. 

Manifestations of violations of the epidermal barrier of the skin

• Sensation of tightness of the skin. It usually occurs 10-15 minutes after washing. When the stratum corneum is damaged, the skin quickly takes on water, causing it to swell. Then the water evaporates just as quickly, and the person feels as if the skin has tightened.

 

• Dry facial skin. It develops when exposed to surfactants that are part of cosmetics or cleansers. They can bind to the proteins of the stratum corneum and cause their denaturation, destroy lipids, wash out the components of the natural moisturizing factor. Chronically dry facial skin can also occur if the patient does not have enough essential fats in the diet, smokes, lives in a state of constant stress, works in a room with very dry air-conditioned air.

 

• Skin irritation. Damage to the epidermal barrier becomes a signal for the cells of the immune system to activate against the possible penetration of foreign elements, which is manifested by local irritation. If substances that destroy cell membranes have nevertheless penetrated into the skin, inflammation develops, or – in case of introduction of the allergen – allergic reaction. If the irritant has reached the nerve endings located in the skin, itching is added to the inflammation.

 

Thus, cleansing of the skin must be done with great care so as not to damage the epidermal barrier. Dry facial skin is not a pathology in itself, but can cause the development of many problems that require serious medical intervention.