The term “skin photoaging” is currently used by professionals quite often. Modern life has greatly changed people's attitude to appearance and, in particular, to the way their skin looks. For wealthy people, active recreation (especially at sea), long walks, and outdoor sports have become fashionable. Accordingly, a tan gradually ceased to be perceived as a result of long-term work in the open air and moved into the category of things that testify to health, well-being and prosperity.
But about the dangers of excessive tanning, including photoaging, patients should be reminded by a cosmetologist.
Why photoaging develops
Sunburn is the skin's response to exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun. The UV spectrum is divided into UV-C (200-280 nm), UV-B (280-320 nm) and UV-A (320-380 nm) spectra. Ultraviolet radiation is largely retained by the ozone layer of the atmosphere (UV-C rays - completely, UV-B rays - partially), clothing, window glass, cloudiness also serve as an obstacle to it.
But that part of the radiation that enters the human skin causes certain photobiological reactions, which leads to changes in the structure of the skin and causes various pigmentation disorders (dyschromia).
Human skin is exposed to UV-A and UV-B rays. UV-B rays cause redness (erythema) on its surface and are responsible for the formation of sunburn. They penetrate the skin in a small amount (no more than 10%), being reflected by the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
UV-A spectrum does not cause redness and burns on the surface of the skin, but due to more active absorption by the skin - up to 30% - causes pronounced damage, which is commonly called photoaging of the skin.
Absorbed energy has a damaging effect primarily on proteins and nucleic acids, promotes the formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species, triggers lipid peroxidation processes, which leads to damage to the protective hydrolipidic mantle of the epidermis and cell membranes. As a result, an inflammatory reaction occurs in the skin, supported, among other things, by the production of inflammatory cytokines (signal regulatory molecules) by the cells of the stratum corneum in response to exposure to UV radiation.
As a result of damage, the stratum corneum and the entire epidermis as a whole begin to thicken, and this often happens unevenly, with a violation of the processes of cell differentiation. However, not only the epidermis suffers, but also the dermis (actually the skin). As a result of the absorption of UV radiation, metalloproteinase enzymes are activated, causing the destruction of the intercellular substance. An inflammatory reaction occurs, elastic fibers are destroyed, their structure changes and their number decreases. The harmful effects of the sun also affect the vascular system of the skin, as the capillaries are damaged.
Signs of skin photoaging
External signs of photodamage of the skin are expressed in its dryness, its turgor decreases, elasticity decreases, small and then large wrinkles appear, dilated capillaries (telangiectasia) and pigmentation disorders.
Due to uncontrolled, excessive sun exposure or excessive use of tanning beds, these changes can occur on the skin long before biological aging occurs.
Ways to prevent skin photoaging
In order to protect the skin from premature aging, it must be protected and restored.
First, you need to use sunscreen. Due to the fact that UV-A and UV-B rays have a damaging effect on the skin, it is imperative to use drugs that provide a sufficient degree of protection from the entire spectrum of rays. Usually this property is indicated on the label of drugs. Sunscreens contain UV filters: chemical, physical or natural.
Chemical protective factors. The most active and commonly used UV-B filters: octylmethoxycinnamate, benzophenone, para-aminobenzoic acid and its derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. The most active UV-A filters - butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene methianthranilate - are especially effective in protecting against the short-wave region of the UV-A range.
Natural protective factors. Shea butter, sesame oil, almond oil, betaglucans, aloe extract, chamomile extract.
Physical protection factors. Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides.
Depending on the combination and concentration of these compositions, preparations may have different levels of SPF and different degrees of protection against UV-A rays. The choice of drug is determined by the time of expected exposure to the sun and the phototype of the skin. Sunscreens can be available as a spray, cream, oil, and include other protective formulations such as antioxidants.
Due to the fact that oxidative stress plays a critical role in photoaging, it is necessary to actively saturate the body in general and the skin in particular with antioxidants. The skin's own antioxidant system is vulnerable to active sun exposure, and it needs support from cosmetics containing antioxidants.
The most active in this case will be fat-soluble compounds: vitamin E, vitamin A derivatives, ubiquinone, squalene. Water-soluble ones include vitamin C, alpha-lipoic acid, a wide group of bioflavonoids, which not only have an antioxidant effect, but also have a capillary-protective, anti-inflammatory effect. Herbal extracts containing bioflavonoids include extracts of green tea, calendula, grape seed, ginkgo biloba, and more. others
Antioxidant protection is possible not only as an external therapy. Today, a wide range of vitamins and dietary supplements with antioxidant action are produced.
If we talk about professional cosmetic procedures that correct the condition of photodamaged skin, then chemical peeling procedures are in the first place. Controlled damage to the skin stimulates the renewal of the epidermis, structures the skin, increases its level of moisture. Recently, peeling procedures based on AHA (fruit) acids have been widely used. They belong to the group of superficial peels that do not require skin rehabilitation.
Glycolic acid, belonging to the group of fruit acids, has not only a mild exfoliating effect, but also a stimulating effect on the cellular structures of the dermis, providing its restructuring. When using HA with a concentration of 50 to 70% in the peeling program, you can achieve good results in leveling the thickness of the epidermis, renewing its cellular composition, increasing skin turgor, moisturizing it and evening out tone.
In addition to chemical peels, it is possible to perform mechanical resurfacing procedures: microdermabrasion or laser skin resurfacing, these procedures are also aimed at smoothing the skin relief and stimulating its renewal. Photorejuvenation procedures have a complex effect: hyperpigmentation, spider veins (telangiectasias) are reduced, the skin becomes more elastic.
Retinoid programs play an important role among cosmetic procedures. Years of research have proven their ability to repair photodamaged skin. With prolonged use of drugs, the skin structure is restored, the severity of pigmentation decreases, and the condition of the capillary wall improves. Modern cosmetics use such retinol derivatives as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, which are comfortably tolerated by the skin.
Care programs are also actively used with the use of antioxidants, brightening components: kojic acid (arbutin, benzofuran compounds that are part of the mulberry extract, lingonberry extract), preparations that provide complex multi-level skin hydration.
Patients need to be reminded that the processes associated with photoaging are largely reversible. If you follow certain rules, do not expose yourself to the dangers lurking in excessive, uncontrolled tanning, then the skin will remain young and beautiful for a long time.
According to the materials of the site allseason.ru
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