Photodamage and premature aging: what happens at the cellular level and how to restore the skin

The recent AMEC-2017 Congress in Monaco presented a report on new data on changes in the epidermis and dermis observed from 25-30 years old, which is a multifactorial process and causes premature aging. Insolation is the dominant trigger, but there are other causes as well: hormonal imbalance, stress, comorbidities, abuse of energy drinks and insufficient photoprotection.

Exposed areas of the skin undergo aging to a greater extent due to constant photodamage of the skin by sunlight, as well as genetically determined hormonal changes.

Tatyana Bubalo – dermatovenereologist, cosmetologist, member of the Association of Anti-Aging Medicine, leading specialist of the ESTEVA Beauty and Health Clinic.

Premature skin aging: main factors and consequences 

The primary sign of photodamage will manifest itself even before the onset of symptoms of chrono-aging of the skin, prevailing in areas exposed to direct sunlight – neck, décolleté, face, forearm and hands. Histologically, there are changes in the dermal structures and epidermis, such as xerosis, "solar elastomer", basal degeneration of collagen, violation of one of the important functions of the skin - protective.

Changes occur in all structural and functional units. The proliferative activity of keratinocytes involved in the keratinization of the epidermis and cell renewal is enhanced. 

Skin xerosis, abnormal dryness of the upper layer of the epidermis, caused by changes in the hydrolipidic balance of the skin. The main mechanism for the development of skin xerosis is the hypofunction of the sebaceous glands due to a violation of the lipid balance of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, ceramides and fatty acids involved in the construction of the bilayer membrane of the stratum corneum, as a result, the barrier function of the skin is disturbed and transdermal moisture loss increases. The basement membrane is thickened, this is a marker of possible damage to basal keratinocytes that have entered into the processes of growth and differentiation of cells that are responsible for skin resistance to UV radiation.

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Sunburn leads to the destruction of Langerhans cells and, as a consequence, the violation of immune processes in the skin. Apoptosis of keratinocytes leads to the appearance of cells that do not contain keratin, which in turn leads to the enzymatic destruction of type 1 collagen.

Hyperactivation of process cells  melanocytes stimulates skin pigmentation due to melanin synthesis and photooxidation. Uneven distribution of the pigment and the number of processes of melanocytes are noted.

In the melanocytes of the basal layer of the epidermis and hair follicles, eumelanins (black pigment) and pheomelanins (light red pigment) are synthesized, melanosomes with melanin are redistributed from the center to the periphery from the basement membrane to the surface of the stratum corneum. In premelanosomes, melanin is synthesized from molecules of the amino acid tyrosine under the influence of the enzyme tyrosinase.

In turn, impaired differentiation of keratinocytes subsequently leads to the launch of morphological changes in the deeper layers of the skin.

Elastin fibers undergo destruction (fragmentation, compaction, twisting, reduction in number), the so-called "solar elastosis". Normal collagen fibers in photoalteration are replaced by fibers with clearly damaged areas, the so-called "phenomenon of basophilic collagen degeneration". Persistent vasodilation during insolation contributes to the appearance of spider veins, as well as signs of cellular atypia, which in turn increases the risk of developing skin tumors.

As a result of UV exposure, oxygen free radicals are often formed as by-products of biological oxidation in mitochondria, which are the first to be damaged. It turns out a chain reaction: free radical damage to the energy stations of cells, which as a result will lead to disruption of cell energy and hyperproduction of free radicals.

"Damaged"

collagen is less elastic and poorly binds water, which contributes to the violation of the skin's hydroreserve, as a result, it is one of the causes of dehydration of the dermis. The exchange of glucosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid, which are responsible for the strength of cell membranes, is disrupted, and is a "sponge"; skin hydro reserve.

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With age, the thickness of the dermis decreases due to an imbalance between the processes of synthesis and degradation of its components. The synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans by fibroblasts is reduced. Hyperkeratosis is noted in the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

Treatment: Nourishment, UV Protection, Salon Prep

Nutrition should be with an abundance of foods containing vitamins A, E, C, which are antioxidants: cereals, nuts, olives, avocados, carrots, apples, currants, liver, yolks. Fatty fish varieties that contain Omega-3 and fatty acids (tuna, salmon, herring). Trace elements: selenium, zinc (sesame, figs, dates, olives, broccoli, corn, tomatoes). Abundant drinking regimen in the morning (at least 2 liters of water).

SPF 50 protection is applied to the entire face and body, 30 minutes before the planned sun exposure, as UV radiation, falling on unprotected skin, may show signs of photoaging – pigmentation in areas where it is protected. The skin of the lips must be protected – use hygienic lipstick. Do not shower just before going to the beach, as washing off the bilipid layer on the skin also reduces the natural photoprotection.

As an effective method for combating photoaging, the procedure of redermalization with preparations

Institute Hyalual is shown. Skin redermalization is a unique formula for combining two of the most important natural components for cell function: hyaluronic acid and sodium succinate (succinic acid salt). Injections of this formula allow you to reprogram the functions of dermal cells for their active recovery after photodamage and stimulate the natural functions of the skin to protect against photoaging.

Redermalizants slow down the action of free radicals and improve cellular regeneration, restore the physiological hydro-reserve and energy reserves of cells, enhance the synthesis of structural skin proteins (collagen, elastin), strengthen the skin frame.

It is better to do it in a course of one session 2-3 weeks before the planned long exposure to the sun, for example, holidays and 1-2 procedures after a frequency of once every 14-21 days. We use preparations with a low concentration of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid 0.55%, 0.9% or 1.1%.

But since we are in the sun, such a course must be taken regularly 2 times a year. Daily cosmetics with vitamin C and E. Salon procedure with Collagen and Hyaluronic acid perfectly nourishes and moisturizes, speeding up the renewal process.

If all these points are fulfilled, then the sun will give only joy, since under the influence of UV, vitamin D is absorbed, the normal level of which leads to the prevention of osteoporosis, strengthening immunity, reducing the risk of developing cardiovascular diseases and preventing emotional disorders.